Springfield 9mm Target

[Rhyyke]

So far the Metalform mags that it comes with have been reliable.

Haven't had a chance to run the Tripp's yet but their .45 mags are excellent and totally unscientific anecdotal internet posts seem to indicate that they work well.

Have heard mixed things about the Wilson's. Over on another forum you get a couple guys complaining about the followers in the Springfields.

tmh1 above suggested the Dawson mag which will probably be my next set.

[Sentenza]

Looks like I will be getting one of these SA 1911 9mm soon. WC also makes 10rd mags. Any input on these or any other 10rd mags? So far they all seem to be in the $30 range.

I run both WC and Tripps for my 9mm loaded. I prefer the follower and tube design of the Tripp Cobras over the WC's.

[Gary13]

I had good luck with the WC ETM's in my TRP, but have heard good things about the Tripps. Thanks for the feedback.

[Chief-7700]

I got my sights and a couple Cobra mags from Harrison's and was looking at his ignition controls. Did you fit it yourself or is it more of a gunsmith job?

I fitted the thumb safety myself, having done a few times on other 1911s.
Chief

[Rhyyke]

I fitted the thumb safety myself, having done a few times on other 1911s.
Chief

Gotcha, how about the ignition controls?

[Chief-7700]

Gotcha, how about the ignition controls?

They are drop in, you will have to adjust the three fingered spring for the best trigger pull.
Chief

[Rhyyke]

Interesting... I was planning to replace that craptacular stock thumb safety anyway. Good to know, thanks for the tip.

[Chief-7700]

Interesting... I was planning to replace that craptacular stock thumb safety anyway. Good to know, thanks for the tip.

I use Wilson ambi safetys since my shooting game requires some support hand shooting. PM me your email address will send you some pictures.
Chief

[Rhyyke]

I have a Harrison Design fixed black rear and a SDM Fabricating gold bead sight on my Springfield TRP. Good combo.

Kind of unrelated, but are gold bead sights more visible in the dark/against a light? Both trijicon and fo's basically turn to black when you have a light on target. Been wondering if gold bead is the solution.

[Chief-7700]

On all my 1911s have Harrison rear sights with Novak .180 Mega Dot red fiber optic fronts. 2x Colt M1911 .45ACP, 2X Ruger SR-1911, 2X Springfield 1911s, TRP Full Rail Operator and a 9MM Range Officer.
Chief

[Chief-7700]

I don't like adjustable sight on a 1911 they will make you bleed clearing a Type one, two and three malfunctions, if you shoot a 1911 long enought you will have all three.

[Kmai24]

Want a great trigger pull. Get John Harrison's HD-120-TR sear, disconnector and hammer. You will have to refit the thumb safety.
www.HarrisonCustom.com

..you can also save money and use the original springs and sear but just a little elbow grease and patience you can get a clean 2-4lb pull(which ever you desire). I google DIY 1911 trigger job and found a little write up on the 1911 forum. Do this at your own risk, if any damages/injuries occur to you or your firearm you are held reliable.

-polish all 3 sides of the trigger bow to a mirror finish. 600gr, 800gr, 1000gr, wet sanding w/1000gr

-polish the trigger bow channels (inside the frame)

-polish up the edges of the sear and hammer hooks but don't change the angles

- cut no more than 2 coils off of the MHS spring

- bend the 2 left sear spring back towards you. (Adjust accordingly to how light or heavy you want your pull) the further you bend it back the lighter the pull but your reset may not be as pronounced. The more you bend it forward the heavier it will be. Also if you bend it back too much you'll end up with a dead trigger.

That's a poor mans trigger job. Did it to my 9mm target and got it down to a reliable 2-1/2 to 3lb pull with a positive reset. Much lighter and smoother than a factory trig. Yes I know a proper trigger job is to stone the sear and hammer hooks but a lot a people can't afford a 100-150 gunsmith or stones and jigs or some just likes to do things on their own.

[JTROKS]

As long as all the parts and holes are square and parallel then it's a polish and drop in show with a bit of bend here and there. What happens when the sear and/or hammer pin holes are slightly off?

..you can also save money and use the original springs and sear but just a little elbow grease and patience you can get a clean 2-4lb pull(which ever you desire). I google DIY 1911 trigger job and found a little write up on the 1911 forum. Do this at your own risk, if any damages/injuries occur to you or your firearm you are held reliable.

-polish all 3 sides of the trigger bow to a mirror finish. 600gr, 800gr, 1000gr, wet sanding w/1000gr

-polish the trigger bow channels (inside the frame)

-polish up the edges of the sear and hammer hooks but don't change the angles

- cut no more than 2 coils off of the MHS spring

- bend the 2 left sear spring back towards you. (Adjust accordingly to how light or heavy you want your pull) the further you bend it back the lighter the pull but your reset may not be as pronounced. The more you bend it forward the heavier it will be. Also if you bend it back too much you'll end up with a dead trigger.

That's a poor mans trigger job. Did it to my 9mm target and got it down to a reliable 2-1/2 to 3lb pull with a positive reset. Much lighter and smoother than a factory trig. Yes I know a proper trigger job is to stone the sear and hammer hooks but a lot a people can't afford a 100-150 gunsmith or stones and jigs or some just likes to do things on their own.

[JackRydden224]

Kevin at Armstrong Gunsmithing in Laguna Niguel does a great trigger job for $65. He will let you try it out on his 1911. He also opens on Saturday

[Kmai24]

As long as all the parts and holes are square and parallel then it's a polish and drop in show with a bit of bend here and there. What happens when the sear and/or hammer pin holes are slightly off?

Sorry, not following what you're asking? I was just referring to using all of the oem parts so in theory the pistol would function properly, thumb safety, grip safety and all. Are you asking if one side of the sear/hammer pin hole doesn't line straight up to the other side of the frame?