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M&P Apex Tactical install

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  • #16
    hundy
    CGN/CGSSA Contributor
    CGN Contributor
    • Jun 2013
    • 536

    Thank you

    Thank you for all the help. I appreciate all the input. All replies are very helpful. I am going to invest in a vice, and will get the sight pusher tool. I am going to get all the proper punches. I will try to watch as many videos as I can, and get familiar with disassembly/reassembly. I will purchase my first kit next month and give it try.

    Thank you

    Jay

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    • #17
      AGFNTB
      Senior Member
      • Jan 2014
      • 781

      I've done 3 of the FSS kit installs: 1. Aluminum curved trigger version on my CORE, 2. Aluminum curved trigger version on my wife's FS9, 3. Aluminum flat faced trigger version on my friend's FS9. In fact, today I switched out my curved aluminum trigger for a flt faced version.



      As others said, watch the videos a few times. The Apex video is OK, but will jump in the part where you assemble the trigger, slide stop, slave pin. Other points:
      • Be careful of the take down lever retainer spring in the trigger block. It looks like a small bent staple. It comes out easy. Keep an eye on it when installing the block.
      • The armorers block is great, especially for the trigger bar pin (however, it does not work for the flat trigger - at least my older version block doesn't)
      • Test fit your sear block before trying to install it with the trigger bar so you understand how it fits in the frame
      • Be careful of the ejector as it can come off easy during install of the sear block
      • Make sure you insert the little slave pin with the flat end facing the trigger pin insertion hole (bigger hole side).

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      • #18
        squiddo
        Senior Member
        • Jan 2012
        • 1234

        That slave pin on the reinstall is key. Done it with and without and much easier with.

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        • #19
          L84CABO
          Calguns Addict
          • Mar 2009
          • 8475

          Originally posted by Sentenza
          If you got the aluminum FSS trigger, driving the pin while maintaining the bar orientation can be tricky. There is a section in the tray for this, but a vise actually helps more there.

          If you decide to switch out the trigger return spring, a dental pick helps with helping sliding it over the slave pin. As the post above, double check your trigger bar orientation before driving the pin.

          I think the hardest part is getting the rear sight off for the firing pin plunger.

          Sear block should be easy.
          +1. A vice can be helpful. I've done two installs and done it both ways...with the block and a vice. The one trigger needed a vice as the trigger pin wasn't properly seated from Apex (they start it for you). It needed the slow, consistent pressure of the vice and I needed an extra hand. But I think that was an anomaly.

          The videos are really good. Go slow and you should be fine. And we're always here to help...or laugh at what you did wrong.
          "Kestryll I wanna lick your doughnut."

          Fighter Pilot

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