1911 trigger question

[SIKwitIT]

I have had my trp operator for about 4 months now and about 1500 rounds through it, love the gun and the trigger is "ok". Its has a bit of creep in it before the break, feels a bit sticky. I like the weight and dont want to lighten it up. My question being, is there anything i can do to "clean up" the trigger to get a cleaner pull/ crisper break?

[MosinVirus]

I have had my trp operator for about 4 months now and about 1500 rounds through it, love the gun and the trigger is "ok". Its has a bit of creep in it before the break, feels a bit sticky. I like the weight and dont want to lighten it up. My question being, is there anything i can do to "clean up" the trigger to get a cleaner pull/ crisper break?

I am sure there are many things you could do to improve it (I am not a pro, by the way), but it would all depend on where you get creep. I would also recommend you ask on https://forums.1911forum.com/
in the Gunsmithing section, and provide pictures they request. You will certainly get great advice.

[Kowan]

If you're willing to buy a jig and stone,you can do a trigger job to remove the creep.

Unless you're going to do multiple trigger jobs, it's more cost effective to have a trusted gunsmith do it.

[SIKwitIT]

Yeah its just gummy... I can literally squeeze the trigger just a enough for it to move, i can then take my finger off the trigger and it will stick and not move. Then anymore pressure applied to the trigger and it will break.

[Bainter1212]

A 1911 trigger can always be improved. You can buy all the tools and the Kunhausen books and do it yourself, or hire a smith to do it.
Having owned a Springfield, a Kimber, and a Rock Island, the Springfield had the worst trigger out of the box.
The most redeeming value of the 1911 platform, IMHO, is the almost unlimited potential of the trigger. No other platform has a trigger that can be tuned and adjusted as much as the 1911.

[RR.44]

^^^^This^^^^

[sholling]

Creep or take-up? 1911s require roughly 1/32" of take-up to function correctly. If you take out that last little bit of take-up the 1/2 cock safety won't work correctly. I would also highly recommend not doing your own trigger job on a 1911 - take it to a 1911 expert so that it's done right.

[SIKwitIT]

Its creep not the take up. The take up i dont mind. Its very minimal

[Chapped Hide]

Its creep not the take up. The take up i dont mind. Its very minimal

I know what you are describing exactly. I have 3 different models of SA 1911's that have the same exact little hang up before the break. My Loaded and Pro are the only ones that never had the issue, nice clean break. They are only 2 that didn't have the stock ILS housing too.

My EMP, Range Officer Compact and TRP all had crappy triggers but after about 1000-1500 rounds they've begun to smooth out but a minute amount of creep is still there. The only time I really notice it though is while dry firing. Doesn't bother me during live fire enough to warrant fixing, just plan on it working itself out. Might eventually swap out the MSH's to non ILS though.

[sholling]

Its creep not the take up. The take up i dont mind. Its very minimal

Then I feel your pain. I'd find a 1911 specialist to perfect that trigger. Not just anyone with a gunsmithing business, look for a 1911 expert who will do it right.

[JTROKS]

SIKwitIT, where are you located? I have a few 1911s you can dry fire to see which trigger feel you want.

[himurax13]

A 1911 trigger can always be improved. You can buy all the tools and the Kunhausen books and do it yourself, or hire a smith to do it.
Having owned a Springfield, a Kimber, and a Rock Island, the Springfield had the worst trigger out of the box.
The most redeeming value of the 1911 platform, IMHO, is the almost unlimited potential of the trigger. No other platform has a trigger that can be tuned and adjusted as much as the 1911.

TBH, no other platform needs as much work as a 1911, LOL.

Here is a list of **** that I used to do back in the day just for a 1911 trigger job:

Polish the trigger tracks on the frame.
Fit an oversized trigger into the frame.
True and polish the trigger bow.
Cut secondary angle for the disconnector on the rear of the trigger bow.
Polish and true the Disconnector.
Polish the Sear and true the sear face.
Polish the high spots off the hammer.
Trim hammer hooks and add a secondary angle (requires jig and a magnifier)
Polish the trigger tracks on the frame.
Install a lighter sear spring and polish.
Install a lighter hammer spring and polish the hammer strut.
Ensure thumb safety engages and install and fit a new one if necessary.

That is why I refuse to do them now, lol.

[nothingextra]

First make sure you have good sear engagement.
If good, remove the ILS.
If still not satisfied, tune up with C&S drop-in kit of your choice.

[sirgrumps]

IMHO, take it to a smith and he'll clean up the trigger to be creep free.

The 1911 trigger, when done properly is among the cleanest, crispest triggers you will ever feel. Like an icicle snapping.

That is the feel everyone wants in all there guns.

The other option, if you are mechanically inclined is to buy a drop in set, like the Cylynder and Slide. It would be worth the hassle to have a smith do it to make sure all the surfaces are engaged and the SAFETIES are fully function.

[MosinVirus]

Yeah its just gummy... I can literally squeeze the trigger just a enough for it to move, i can then take my finger off the trigger and it will stick and not move. Then anymore pressure applied to the trigger and it will break.

Wow that should not happen at all. So when you moved the trigger back a little and take your finger off it doesn't move back out?

Have you taken the pistol apart? I would start there. When everything is out, and only the trigger and frame left, how does the trigger move in its channel? Look at the trigger bow tracks and top and bottom of the trigger pad for drag marks when you take it out.

Then start adding parts and keep trying the trigger. Does the disconnector move freely in its hole in the frame, when you add the sear spring, does the creep and stick occur?
Basically find out exactly what is causing that sticking issue and then post here. Someone will surely recommend how to address it.