Which J frame?

[nikki#2]

638

Got a full size SW 357s, 4in

Gives you the option of shooting DA or SA.

[BigYankee]

I carry a 642 alot. I've never had any reliability issue with it, and its darn concealable.

[The Jack]

I have a 642 and a Ruger LCR. I prefer the trigger on the LCR. The grips on the LCR are not as conducive to carry though. Just my .02 cents.

[ojisan]

The advantage of the 14.5oz 442 / 642 is that it can shoot all bullet weights in .38 / .38+P.
The 2-3 ounce lighter Ti guns have restrictions on what weight ammo you can use.
.357 loads in these light guns are no fun, so you might end up using .38+P anyway.
Load the 442 / 642 with Buffalo Bore ammo (or any other .38 that you can scrounge up if need be) and you'll be set.

Now I've heard that the 442 is best.
But then some guy on the internet said the 642 was better for corrosion resistance.
But the 442 doesn't shine or reflect at night.
Decisions, decisions.

Oh yeah, it's really easy to stage the trigger on the 442 / 642 so you get a single action let-off.

['ol shooter]

I'm generally a K and N frame guy, but I won the 442 Power Port in an NRA drawing, and it's a nice bedside gun. it's had the springs done, and a little internal polish by me, (armorers school). Shoots nice with 125gr. handloads.

[sealocan]

^^^
"But then some guy on the internet said the 642 was better for corrosion resistance."

I'd like to get any more information if you guys have it on this aspect.

I believe the frame themselves are an alloy so there won't be rust on the frame but the barrel and the cylinder at least on the modern made 442s is more black in color than traditional bluing.
So what is the actual type of finish on those 2 gun models ? and how durable is it?

[Twiki357]

I have 8 “J” frames (Models 36, 37 & 60) dating from pre-model numbers to a 637-2 I bought in 2009 that’s my primary carry gun. No humpbacks and no castrated hammer spurs and I’ve never has a problem with the hammer snagging. And, 6 or 60 years old, I’ve never had a problem with any of them.

Just my FYI.

[TMB 1]

I have a Model 60 5" barrel. Perfect little gun for hiking. The 3" barrel would be good too but not as good as the 5". 3" would be better for cc though especially in hot weather.

[ojisan]

^^^
"But then some guy on the internet said the 642 was better for corrosion resistance."

I'd like to get any more information if you guys have it on this aspect.

I believe the frame themselves are an alloy so there won't be rust on the frame but the barrel and the cylinder at least on the modern made 442s is more black in color than traditional bluing.
So what is the actual type of finish on those 2 gun models ? and how durable is it?

All right, well, ya know, I couldn't decide which one was best so in the finest of CalGuns traditions I bought both.




Both 442 and 642 have the same alloy frame.
One is anodized silver, the other black.
Given sufficient pocket or holster wear, both will rub through the finish after a while.
The stainless cylinder and barrel are much easier to clean up and remove minor scratches with steel wool than the blued / black 442 barrel and cylinder.
So, yeah, the stainless one is the beater while the black one is for dress-up.
The 642 also needs orange or green day-glo paint on the front sight blade to have any chance of picking it up quickly at all.


But tonight's question is:
Why does the silver gun have a black trigger and the black gun have a silver trigger?

[Maht_g]

^^^ nice pair! I've got a 642 pro (cut for moon clips) that I love shooting, but have been tempted to buy her a friend. Mostly haven't due to finish wear. How many rounds thru your 442 in the pic? Looks pretty good, slight turn ring but they all get that. The anodizing holding up to pocket/ holster wear?

OP I highly recommend the 642/442 depending on what color you want, awesome shooters! As others have said a touch of paint on front sight makes a big difference. Mine is set up for moon clips, but I've only used them a couple times, they are a pain to load/unload. Need a tool to do it at any speed without bending the clips. BUT the pro version is also "no lock" so that's a plus.

[hundreddollarman]

I'm partial to the one with the hump (not sure of the number) if only for the "Miami Vice" factor.

[jazman]

I like my 642, excellent gun. Once Gemini Customs did a full package on it it became more excellent! Since then though I have found a BNIB '77 Colt Detective Special that is currently at the Gunsmith being super tuned, so I may end up selling the 642.

[gunhohulk]

I have an M&P 340 and it's a love have relationship.

The thing conceals really well in multiple carry methods.

The hate part it when shooting it with .357 loads(who am I kidding I love it but it sure stings. The thing has even drawn a littl blood on the web of another guys hand from the recoil splitting the web of his hand.)

Would buy again.

[VegasND]

I picked up a 637 about 3 weeks ago. So far I've put about 70-80 rounds through it. Not sure how I feel about it yet -- wish the DA was better.

The barrel is a little longer than most - 2 1/2" The Hillary hole is disgusting but I doubt I'll do anything about it.

[ChuckDizzle]

Love me a J-frame.

Carried a 637 for quite some time. It was easily the most concealable gun I've found outside of the micro pistols like "belly guns."

I would go for a DA/SA with an exposed hammer. You would be surprised how accurate you can be with the SA and in my experience fears of the hammer snagging have been greatly exaggerated. If you are carrying properly (nothing else in the pocket), with even a cheap pocket holster you wont have any problems.

While a 5-shot .38 is classic in the snub nose I would seriously consider a 351-PD in .22 Magum with its 7 shot cylinder. I don't want to start a caliber debate, but all pistol calibers are poor at producing involuntary stops, and it may be worth it to some to have an extra two trigger pulls for a slight loss in muzzle energy especially with how cumbersome revolver reloads are under stress. I'm looking into buying one for carry within the next year.