DELETE

[tacticalcity]

I'd bet it will come off. Take a picture and email it to the custom shop guys and ask their advice. They've probably seen it a dozen times before and come up with an easy way to get off there. They've more than likely tried the hundred solutions we can come up and know which works best.

FYI, that's not an idiot scratch. That term idiot scratch or idiot mark has a defined meaning. No biggie. Just letting you know before somebody flames you for it.

[johnny_boy02]

It is probably not as bad as you think. Still sucks though.

[Rhyyke]

I've done the same thing. After shooting it a bit and repeated cleanings the scratches seem to fade, but never completely.

[lc*y]

those finishes are not tough as steel.

[_TomT_]

Exactly what it sounds like OP...

[JTROKS]

Stainless usually won't get bronze wash coloring unless it was sandblasted. I'm thinking the pistol is parkerized. If the discoloration is on the rails that are hidden when the gun is assembled. When you take it apart just tell people that notices it that its some premium gold grease you're using.

Bronze wash will not stay bronze forever. Eventually it'll darken and you might be able to speed the process with cold bluing. If your gun is parkerized it wouldn't show much.

Or you can try using copper out, but follow the directions to prevent damage to your rails. You can't soak overnight like some folks that I've heard of doing because they are too lazy to read the instructions.

[avcrew]

The finish on Kimber stainless 1911 is smooth glass bead blasted.

Polishing the imperfection may not remove it and will certainly leave a shiny spot.

Sanding with sand paper or sanding pads works well on a stainless Springfield Armory because it has a brushed finish.

Removing imperfections on a stainless Kimber can be quite a task. Without getting into much detail.

1. Mask the area to be repaired. Extend the area to reach a natural seam, such as a corner or any angular lines in the frame.

2. Remove the scratch with fine grit sandpaper. 400, 600, 800 grit.

3. Clean the area with alcohol or degreaser.

4. Bead blast the surface using fine grit #13 glass bead media.

5. The frame or slide will need to be thoroughly cleaned of any media before reassembly.

One will need an air compressor and a bead blast gun. An enclosed bead blast cabinet is recommended, but can also be done in the open air for small touch-ups.

Link to glass bead media:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GLASS-BEAD-13-5-Cups-ULTRA-FINE-BEAD-Hobby-Craft-Particle-BLASTING-MEDIA-/261970309229?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cfea5b06d

Link to cheap bead blast gun:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-liter-abrasive-blast-gun-92857.html

The key to a good repair match is the coarseness of the media. #13 worked well for a repair that I made. YMMV. One may need to experiment with different coarseness media.

[VL221]

Any pictures? Depending on the finish you might be able to polish it off yourself.

[CK_32]

Like as in the frame/slide rails?


Shoot it. Buff it self out.

[mrvash]

Like as in the frame/slide rails?


Shoot it. Buff it self out.

Yep. Weird thing is that it went away on its own as the pistol just sat in my safe lol. I didn't even touch it.

[DysfunctionalVet]

Hit it with a hammer and they won't even see the small marks. Better yet, shoot the crap out of it and get use marks.