The hook end of the extractor has some wiggle, that's the flex in the design. However, the rear end of the extractor should not have much if any wiggle. This is called extractor clocking (if the extractor has some rotation on its axis like a clock). If the firing pin stop is under sized or if the extractor notch is too wide, you could have extractor clocking. If your extractor is clocking, the fix is to install an oversized firing pin stop.
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1911 Fte extractor
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FYI, extractor clocking looks like this:The hook end of the extractor has some wiggle, that's the flex in the design. However, the rear end of the extractor should not have much if any wiggle. This is called extractor clocking (if the extractor has some rotation on its axis like a clock). If the firing pin stop is under sized or if the extractor notch is too wide, you could have extractor clocking. If your extractor is clocking, the fix is to install an oversized firing pin stop.
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote." B.Franklin,1759Comment
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Thank you to everyone who came to replied to my issue. I just recently today dropped my Harrison design extractor. It's nice and tight no wiggle or clocking. Took it to the range today, 200 rounds, 0 fails. I guess I learned my lesson dropping the slide on snap caps straight in the chamber. Lesson learned
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Good work."Show me a hero and I'll write you a tragedy."
-F. Scott FitzgeraldComment
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When asked what qualities he most valued in his generals, Napoleon said, "give me lucky ones."Comment
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I understand. My point was it still needs to be checked and adjusted regularly (like 5k rounds or less) regardless of what you do. If not, it will probably start slipping the rim. The extractor hook also needs periodic cleaning up with a file to keep the claw sharp. It's a fact of life for a 1911 extractor and it's worse when the part is MIM or cast since the metal "takes a set" and then the tension goes away over time.Comment
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