That surface oxidation should clean right up. Apply CLP liberally and let sit for a few, then wipe it down good with a few patches.
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Anyone ever ran into this issue?
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Also, throw a dessicant pack into all your cases. I do. I even grab the ones out of shipping boxes and toss them in there for good measure.
I do this for ammo cans, etc... Anything that is sealed up where you can't ensure that it is 100% dry - throw a pack in.- 80% AR Fan
- 300BLK all the wayComment
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I have them in ammo cans, going to be putting them in my pistol Tupperware now as well.
My 92fs lives in its box, never had any issues (I have all steel parts). I just bought this case for the Bersa and put it in that night. I can't imagine how the dampness got to it
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It came right off that way! I have the pistol sitting out and airing out, as well as the Tupperware. Hopefully drying out
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I pretty much avoid all oil & lubrication type threads regardless of whether it is automotive, firearms or industrial, but if you guys have not heard of Gibbs Lubricant you absolutely have to give it a try.
For general lubrication and water proofing etc it is unbeatable. I'm willing to bet you could spray some of it on that trigger and that rust will wipe right off, but more importantly the stuff just flat out works great for pretty much everything and anything you can think to put it on. Soaks into parkerized barrels and maintains that dark look way longer than any of the other lubes I have too.Comment
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I like Bersas but . . . they're not the most expensive, and perhaps the finish isn't the greatest. You might consider storing it (and your others) in a silicone-impregnated gun sock. They're usually about $5 but seem to do a good job keeping corrosion away. Also, after cleaning it can be good, as a "last touch" before going into the safe, to rub the whole exterior with a silicone cloth.Comment
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If OP used an aerosol spray that might be the problem. When an aerosol is used where there is moisture in the air, the propellant can cool the air enough to precipitate the moisture out of the air and the onto your firearm. The lubrcant then holds it is there and the part rusts.Never argue with a fool, onlookers may not be able to tell the difference. So said somebody but not Mark Twain
"One argues to a judge, one does not argue with a judge." Me
"Never argue unless you are getting paid." CDAA
"I learned long ago, never to wrestle with a pig. You get dirty, and besides, the pig likes it." George Bernard ShawComment
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If you had anything resembling bleach on your hands, even residue, it would account for the issue. Learned that the hard way after putting in a load of laundry before dry practice. A lot of house hold cleaners have bleach in them as well, so you could have picked it up off a surface. it looks like right where you'd put your hands to reassemble and test.Comment
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I knew a guy who perspired and excreted some kind of acid like the monster in the movie Alien. Anytime he touched any of my firearms I would make sure to wipe them down with a soft rag soaked with gun oil. Even stainless steel was at risk of getting a mark. I am not saying this is the case with Angelina but I make sure all the external surfaces are wiped down and the gun safe is dry as possible. This gun obviously saw some moisture or salt+moisture. Even worse.And so it goes...Comment
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Thank you everyone!
I was able to get the rust off pretty easily. I left the foam case open to air out for a few days and then threw a couple moisture absorbent packs in it. Doing a test to see if that takes care of the problem. Would rather experiment with the Bersa than my other firearms.
That rust happened overnight so I'll report the results back here tomorrow. Hopefully it was just the foam that was damp somehow.
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