Trigger Pull Weight, How important to you?

[gsparesa]

I purchased a Lyman Electronic Trigger Pull Gauge to compare triggers on my four steel pistols that I am very accurate shooting. Before purchasing the pull gauge, I always thought the CZ 75B had the toughest pull weight. Boy, was I surprised after taking the data measurements. The CZ 75B had the softest pull weight (4.61lbs) according to the pull gauge. The CZ 75B didn't even have the highest standard deviation (3.11). It just has a lot of trigger creep and what some people would call "staging". However, I consistently shoot the 75B better into a 2" target from 7 yards better than my other four pistols that I measured pull weight. So, for me it appears that trigger creep is less of a problem than trigger pull weight when I perform "bullseye shooting" at the range given all the time in the world to acquire my target. Action shooters probably have the opposite view.

[pc_load_letter]

As I have become a better shooter, I appreciate a moderately light trigger pull.

Almost all of my handguns now have a modified trigger in some capacity.

My Canik P120 (CZ SP01) with CGW trigger is the lightest while my M&P with Apex trigger has the best reset and pretty light trigger pull as well.

Oh, and my VP9 is nice too.

[walterSOBCHAK]

Not as imporant to me as smothness. I can practice suffiently to overcome weight of pull or length of pull isuues. As long as the pressure needed all the way through is the same and it breaks in the same spot every time, I'm fine with it. I prefer light short triggers obviously, but I own too many guns to work on getting the trigger perfect on all of them.

[gsparesa]

How would you describe "creep"?

The distance the trigger has to travel from rest to when the gun fires. The pistol with the least creep was the Colt 1911. It was just a tad creepy, almost none at all.

[ScottyXbones]

4.5 lbs is ideal, but trigger weight is not nearly as important as over-travel. That's what really screws up your shot.

[tbc]

It depends on how accurate I want. If I want to achieve a 2-inch group from 15 yards and beyond, trigger weight, over travel, creep, grips, sights, stance, are all important to me.


Sent from my VP9

[Fishslayer]

Within reason I think SA trigger pull is more about "feel" to me. Drop the hammer on a vintage S&W revolver & you'll know what feels good to me.

To me "slack" feels like pulling against a soft spring, where "creep" would be more like metal on metal friction before break & after the "slack" is taken up.

Not really an expert but I know what I like.

[edgalang]

My understanding of "creep" is the amount of travel the trigger makes past the wall, before the gun fires.

The trigger travel from the beginning to the wall was described to me as "slack".

Any continued rearward travel of the trigger after the gun has fired was described to me as "overtravel".

This is my understanding as well.

[orangeusa]

My understanding of "creep" is the amount of travel the trigger makes past the wall, before the gun fires.

The trigger travel from the beginning to the wall was described to me as "slack".

Any continued rearward travel of the trigger after the gun has fired was described to me as "overtravel".

I would agree in concept (I am not big on correct terms). When folks talk about gritty - thats creep - whatever the term - it is non-linear and most annoying.

You can easily compensate for slack and mod your trigger to reduce overtravel.
I think of a Browning High Power as a real gritty trigger - until you remove the magazine disconnect.

[davidb]

I like my triggers as close to a 1911 as possible, that's why I only own 1911's

[Bad Caselaw]

Not very.

I clean break is far more important.

It just needs to avoid strain.

I like the Gen4 GLOCKs fine, and a "-" connector in the Gen3.

SIG P938 is fine stock as well.




Caselaw

[TomReloaded]

For a pistol out to 25 yards (more typically 10 yards) it seems like a nice trigger just feels nicer. Ill still make the shot if im taking my time.

Its the rifle that gets me. Any little flinch means youre jerking and tossing shots.

[Chapped Hide]

My understanding of "creep" is the amount of travel the trigger makes past the wall, before the gun fires.

The trigger travel from the beginning to the wall was described to me as "slack".

Any continued rearward travel of the trigger after the gun has fired was described to me as "overtravel".

Pretty much my take too. Take up, wall, creep, break and over travel. I hate any creep and adjust out over travel in all my 1911's where as my striker fired guns are what they are. For carry I like 5-6lbs and for targets I like 4 and under with a clean break. Doesn't bother me to shoot different weighted triggers as all of my guns are used often.

[9mmepiphany]

It just has a lot of trigger creep and what some people would call "staging".

If they are using that term, they are using it incorrectly.

Staging is a verb and usually means to pull your trigger almost to the point of let off and stopping to refine the sight picture. This is different than Prepping the trigger, which is to put pressure on the trigger (pass the "wall") and waiting for the sights to return onto target

Action shooters probably have the opposite view.

Most Action Pistol shooters I know, also prefer a smooth trigger stroke to a light one...if they had to choose between the two. Many of these shooters also prefer a "rolling letoff" as opposed to a "sharp break" when the sear releases the hammer/striker

[NewbieDave]

Hmmmm... on a sqaure range, lighter is better for accuracy. In real world, when you're amped up, that trigger's getting smashed.

dpc