Good used sewing machine suggestions?

[BigBamBoo]

Not sure what the op's inteneded use of a sewing machine is, but for $300-500 you can find a used industrial straight stitch on Craigslist. You will be able to work on all kinds of matieral from light weight to heavy with ease.

I went from a older Brother and Whites machines to a new Juki (made in Japan model) industrial that was about $900.00 with a servo motor. I have never looked back.
The $900 was for a brand new machine as I like to buy once cry once, but again, I see many used industrials for sale cheap.

My next machine I will be adding to the sewing rom will be a walking foot industrial.

[sdkevin]

The internet is an awesome tool, I have a damn good idea of what I'm looking for long before I walk in the store. Just like the Yellow pages line - let your fingers do the walking.

I spent yesterday afternoon reading and watching up on the #148 and 158 Kenmores, I've whittled it down to about five. I have a strong hunch I might actually use the new machine more than I expected, cool, that was the idea.

Must haves,
- metal gear
- dual bobbin
- free arm
- zipper and button hole settings
- adjustable feed dogs
- sew denim and leather (gotta be able to fix field gear!)

What am I missing?

I found a local shop with a refurbed Ultra Stitch 6 but I'm thinking a 10 or a 12 would give me room for growth. Ideas? The shop didn't say what was included and I don't know squat about feet yet.

Thanks all.

[Sunflowerz]

.. not very gun related, I know, but I figured this would get the best coverage here.

First time bachelor machine sewer here - I considered this a couple of years back but now it really irritates me that I can't do just simple work. Mom and Grandma spent plenty of time behind a machine so I have a fair idea of what to expect.

It would be nice to stay in the $100 range, I suspect I'll spend a quick $50 replacing busted needles..

Bernina is too nice for my range, so it comes down to Singer and Brother.

I expect to have to tackle everyday clothing, some medium field clothing repairs and a few camping repairs.

Thanks for any help!

I have dozens of vintage machines that I fix up and resell. It is one of my hobbies that I really enjoy. My oldest is a 1888 Singer fiddlebase treadle and newest is a fully computerized Juki last years model that does everything.

Singer machines are about the best you will find and parts are easy to replace and come by. The Japanese clones are prettier but usually noisier, stitches are not that nice and parts can be a bugger to find.

My second choice would be Kenmores from the 50's or 60's. As for plastic parts some of my favorite Slant o Matics have a nylon gear in them, not plastic and it is a very dense hard nylon. So far they hold up as well as the metal gears and they can be easily replaced if needed. I do however really like the aluminum frame machines as they are lighter and easier to move around.

Some machines are much better than others as far stitch quality and some are better for quilting, some for FMQ etc. It really depends on exactly what you want to do with it. I have six machines set up in the house and my Bernina is set with a size 18 needle for all of my heavy work. I have a cute little white Feather Weight for quilt parties and classes and my gorgeous Singer 319W is just plain fun to sew with.

The machine below I just finished repairing two days ago and she sews beautifully. SHe is a Singer 401A Slant O matic, aluminum with a nylon gear and very very easy to use and repair with beautiful stitches.

Give me a PM and I will gladly share my knowledge with you and help you to zero in on the perfect machine for you.

[Sunflowerz]

The internet is an awesome tool, I have a damn good idea of what I'm looking for long before I walk in the store. Just like the Yellow pages line - let your fingers do the walking.

I spent yesterday afternoon reading and watching up on the #148 and 158 Kenmores, I've whittled it down to about five. I have a strong hunch I might actually use the new machine more than I expected, cool, that was the idea.

Must haves,
- metal gear
- dual bobbin
- free arm
- zipper and button hole settings
- adjustable feed dogs
- sew denim and leather (gotta be able to fix field gear!)

What am I missing?

I found a local shop with a refurbed Ultra Stitch 6 but I'm thinking a 10 or a 12 would give me room for growth. Ideas? The shop didn't say what was included and I don't know squat about feet yet.

Thanks all.

Most of the things you listed are on domestic machines, except the leather requirement.

If you want to sew leather and heavy canvas and denim with thick seams you need a leather machine. Yes, I know people show domestic machines they have for sale sewing through leather, but that domestic motor will not do it for long. Also the main problem is clearance under the foot.

Domestic machines do not have as much clearance as the leather machines. You can raise the needle bar all the way up and then try to FMQ it ( free motion quilt) by pushing it through yourself with feed dogs lowered.

Also when you set up a domestic machine to do heavy items, you will need to change out the needle, thread and bobbins, change presser feet, change tensions, stitch length etc. Leather uses only 3-8 stitches per inch. Garment weight leather a little more stitches per inch. Denim will use a different set up and denim is very hard on needles it dulls them very fast. Constantly changing setups each time you want to sew something can be very irritating.

Lots to consider isn't there?

[pacrat]

Another consideration on name brand is "PFAFF". Top of the line machines according to my dearly departed mother who was a seamstress/tailor.

[Sunflowerz]

Yes indeed! Harder to get parts for and to repair but well worth the search for one. They can be pricey. I have several but the 130 and 131 are favs.

[Capt.Dunsel]

I have a Lady Kenmore 89 ( Pfaff 280 rebranded) . She sews everything from
lace to leather , used for repairing chaps , jackets for motorcycle enthusiasts.
Has been known to sew through a persons thumb ( nail, bone and meat) when the person using it didn't pay attention.

Might just be what your looking for.( mines not for sale )

[sdkevin]

Thanks much Sun, I'll keep that invite open.. yes, much to learn.

Called the local shops and estate liquidation places last week - it tells me a good thing that they are really hard to find. Semi - local shop still has the 6-stitch Kenmore...

Watched a utube on it and it does a "six quarter stack", one way of putting it.

[BonnieB]

A couple notes in passing:

• Someone mentioned denim dulling needles. True! So does everything else, eventually. Buy extra spare needles, they come in sizes according to the weight of fabric (think caliber). Change them out frequently. If you don't, they'll fail to pierce the fabric and bind up the machine. This will inevitably happen in the middle of the night when you can't get a spare if you don't have extras. On sharpness, my rule of thumb is that they must draw blood if I push one on my thumb (!) You know how you can tell if a knife is sharp by gently dragging your thumb across the blade? You can feel if a needle is sharp the same way. When in doubt, change the needle. Dispose of the old needles in a smart way, don't just toss them in the trash. Sharps!
  
  
• Everyone gets bitten by a sewing machine needle sooner or later. If you do, get your foot off the pedal (trigger), get your hands away from the needle (muzzle) and get away from the fabric (bench) quickly, so you don't drop blood all over it. I keep band-aids in my tackle box (see below).
  
  
• Just as needles come in different weights according to the planned use, so does thread. You match the weight of the thread to the weight of the fabric. It comes lightweight, heavyweight, all cotton, all synthetic, and best of all "buttonhole twist". Buttonhole twist is hard to find, so buy a bunch if you find it. It's pretty heavy, way strong and is meant for hard use, like, well, buttonholes! But it's good for pretty much everything that has any weight. But not silk mouselline....
  
  
• Also, if your sewing machine comes with a manual, guard it with your life. Bookmark the page that has threading instructions and practice threading. Threading is often totally counter-intuitive. My little 'repairs' machine came with an instruction manual and the threading instructions are wrong. I wound up (!) marking the threading sequence (numbered arrows) on the machine with a Sharpie, I got so frustrated.
  
  
• After reading comments about sewing leather, etc. again, you have to define what you want to do with it. You may find you want a general purpose machine for, well, general purposes, and a heavy duty machine for serious work on leather. Like guns, serious hobbyists rarely have only one machine.
  
  
• Buy a really good pair of scissors. You'll need a large pair of scissors for cutting out material and a little tiny pair, for detail work and snipping off loose ends of thread. The swiss ones with the orange handles are superb and inexpensive. Buy twice as many bobbins as you think you'll ever use. They like to disappear into the limbo where the odd socks go. And you need one for every color thread you have. When you buy new thread, buy bobbins then and there. Always. There is no such thing as an empty bobbin.
  
  
• Go to the sporting goods store and buy a good sized fishing tackle box, the one with the tray that has lots of little compartments. Bigger is better. Buy a plastic one, don't pay a lot. They're better than the fancy ones you buy in the fabric store, more durable and cheaper. You'll need it for your spare needles, thread, scissors, pins, pin magnet, sewing machine oil and cleaning brushes... Getting the drift? Sewing machines have more accessories, doo-dads and gee-gaws than guns do. I've had my sewing machine fishing tackle box for thirty years.
  
  
• And know that sewing machines are malicious beasts with a mind of their own. They love to jam at midnight on Saturday night, messing up the project you need desperately for Sunday morning. They eat thread, snap needles off, puncture your fingers and DARE you to mess with the settings. You can appease them with high quality sewing machine oil and regular cleaning and TLC. Just like guns.

[Zorba]

EXCELLENT post, Bonnie - and so true!!

My only addition is: Buy good quality thread. Junk thread just isn't worth the headaches. All those wooden spools half full of thread from Grandma's machine? Toss 'em, or make something out of the spools - the thread is usually rotten by now. I "got lucky" recently when I needed to sew a NRA patch - I had a wooden spool of the exact color of navy blue that was required, and I managed to sew the patch on without incident - much to my amazement. But I wouldn't count on that happening again - the wooden spool was stamped 35 cents for 125 yards of this stuff, it was mostly empty and I used pretty much the little that was left on this little job.

I prefer Metz, Mettler, Guterman thread. Coats & Clark is "Ok", but the German stuff fares better in my main machine which is a bit finicky about thread.

[sdkevin]

You're killing me Bonnie!

I have a pair of the old Wiss one-hand sissor thingy I bought many years ago, still sharp as ever. As I go through my gear, I'm finding stuff that should go in to a sewing box; velcro, webbing, elastics, "00" thread spools, etc. I quit putting buttons back on with that floss stuff.

Lets check the boxes... fishing tackle, medical gear, sewing stuff...

Bear with me, this is just one of many irons in the fire and one of those is not stitching my nail to my finger!

[Sunflowerz]

Thanks much Sun, I'll keep that invite open.. yes, much to learn.

Watched a utube on it and it does a "six quarter stack", one way of putting it.

6 quarters is really good most are 3 or 4.

There is some really great advice here and may I direct you to another forum? Pull up a chair and join us over on Quilting Board sub forum all about vintage and antique sewing machines and newer ones too.

http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage-antique-machine-enthusiasts-f22/

I hope it is okay to post this link???

[BonnieB]

And I say again, DO NOT MESS WITH THE THREAD TENSION. Ever! You'll regret it bitterly, and then get to spend good ammo money getting someone competent to fix your mistakes.

This is a "just say no" situation.

[BonnieB]

i've been looking for a machine as well. i need something strong enough to go through several layers of ripstop or cordura. is the machine that you mentioned strong enough?
i'll mostly be using the machine for the same reasons as you are but i get the occasional rip on my camouflage clothing and or gear.

Read this whole thread from start to finish and you'll know what to do.

Don't look for a quick fix by taking one guy's opinion. That's like buying a particular handgun because some guy at the range had one that looked cool.

If you want to know if a given machine is strong enough to sew a given material, go to JoAnn's Fabric and ask the nice lady in the sewing machine department. She'll know.

[Sunflowerz]

I respectfully disagree.

Thread tension is something that is adjustable, and it is done for different types of sewing. That is why the thread tension dial goes from 0-9 on most machines and also there is a thread tension adjustment on the bobbin case.

Also the foot pressure adjustment goes hand in hand with the tension adjustments for whatever project you are going to sew. Sometimes a tension assembly has been ruined by the previous owner, but it is usually very easy to remove the complete assembly and install another one from a parts machine or purchased on line from a vintage sewing machine parts supply.

Timing a machine is also something that a novice can do just by watching you tube videos or joining a vintage sewing machine forum and asking how, none of these things are hard to do. If I can do them anyone can.

The thing that draws people to vintage machines is the fact they can be readily repaired by anyone that will take a little time to learn how.

It is best to learn how if you are going to use one or more vintage sewing machines because LSMG's (local sewing machine guys) charge much more than most peeps will ever pay for a vintage machine.