Question on first ever PPT

[Yeatzee]

I've tried calling all my local shops but they're all slammed and can't answer the phone so I figured I'd ask on here. I've got a deal lined up for a handgun and a rifle (M1A Socom if that matters) through a PPT, and I just want to know what to expect and what to prepare for so that I don't waste anyone's time and can be quick and efficient.

I am over 21, and though I've been gifted a couple guns these will be my first ever purchases so I don't know the process exactly. I know for the handgun I'll need to take the FSC, but I'm unclear on when that takes place within the PPT process. Is that before the background check is completed, after, when I go to pick the guns up out of jail, what?

As for the PPT process itself, I'm assuming we do the cash deal before walking into the store then we just let the FFL's staff know we're there to do a PPT and then present ID? I was planning on bringing my ID and Passport, is there anything else I'll need? Proof of residency? From what I saw that can just be a print out of a utility bill right? Is that needed prior to the background check or prior to securing the gun after its jail time?

I've also read there's some other things at play that I should be aware of, such as a lock for the handgun (what about the rifle?). That's needed before I walk out with it. Is that correct? If it doesn't come with said lock I'd hope the store would be able to sell me one! Another was something about proving I can handle the firearm, something about removing a round in the chamber or similar? Seeing as this will be the first time I've handled these particular guns how does that work exactly? They put a dummy round in and I have to remove the magazine and the round in the chamber? I guess I can try and find a video online of someone demonstrating since I've not handled either in person before.

Finally for a PPT what kind of prices should I expect. I thought I read from the DOJ the fee is capped at $10 per transfer however it seems like stores charge $47.19 or something like that per gun. Just want to confirm that is what I should expect.

Is there anything else I'm forgetting or should know about? I appreciate the help, having no friends that are into guns and no real family means the internet is about all I've got to learn!

[QuinnBayArea]

As the buyer you need:
Valid CA ID or DL with your current address
Valid FSC card with your name as it appears on your CA DL/ID
A second proof of residency, recent PG&E Bill in your name will suffice
If your CA ID/DL says "Federal Limits Apply" in top right corner, bring the passport.

The Safe Handling Affidavit will be performed most likely when you fill out the 4473. You'll also fill out a paper that states you own a safe or lock box at home to store weapons in. If you don't, buy a CA certified one (look on DOJs website), write down the make and model number.
The guns. If its a pistol, it cant have a threaded barrel, and you cannot transfer ownership of magazines that hold more than 10 rounds. PPT is ok for Off Roster handguns. For rifles, make sure it is CA 2020 compliant. If it is a magazine fed, center fire cartridge rifle, make sure it doesn't have a pistol grip, collapsible or adjustable stock, a forward pistol grip, or a flash suppressor. Again, you cannot transfer ownership of magazines that hold over 10 rounds.

You will hand over all the documents and your ID, they will make copies and ask you a few questions, they will then have you fill out an ATF Form 4473, then the Safe Handling (they will hand you a locked gun with magazine in it. Unlock it, unload it, make sure its safe, then hand it back to them. Make sure barrel never points at anyone, even customers across the store. Best thing to do is point it DOWN at floor) and Safe Affidavit. They will submit the DROS, one per gun, and get your thumbprint and signature. They should tell you when to come back, or call them, or something on your 10th day after DROS is submitted.
As far as giving the owner cash, I would then do the deal, outside of the shop. One thing I can tell you, is look the firearms over well for any damage or missing parts etc, before handing over the cash. After every things done, and you come back to finalize the DROS, they will get your thumbprint and signature once more, and you will need to have a lock on the firearms and a LOCKABLE container to put the weapons in to leave the store.
I might be forgetting something, and every store is different in how they do them. Some are more efficient then others.

The fees should be $10 per firearm, $37.19 for DROS, and thats it. Locks are $10 or less, some places have firearm cases for $10-30.

[Yeatzee]

As the buyer you need:
Valid CA ID or DL with your current address
Valid FSC card with your name as it appears on your CA DL/ID
A second proof of residency, recent PG&E Bill in your name will suffice
If your CA ID/DL says "Federal Limits Apply" in top right corner, bring the passport.

The Safe Handling Affidavit will be performed most likely when you fill out the 4473. You'll also fill out a paper that states you own a safe or lock box at home to store weapons in. If you don't, buy a CA certified one (look on DOJs website), write down the make and model number.
The guns. If its a pistol, it cant have a threaded barrel, and you cannot transfer ownership of magazines that hold more than 10 rounds. PPT is ok for Off Roster handguns. For rifles, make sure it is CA 2020 compliant. If it is a magazine fed, center fire cartridge rifle, make sure it doesn't have a pistol grip, collapsible or adjustable stock, a forward pistol grip, or a flash suppressor. Again, you cannot transfer ownership of magazines that hold over 10 rounds.

You will hand over all the documents and your ID, they will make copies and ask you a few questions, they will then have you fill out an ATF Form 4473, then the Safe Handling (they will hand you a locked gun with magazine in it. Unlock it, unload it, make sure its safe, then hand it back to them. Make sure barrel never points at anyone, even customers across the store. Best thing to do is point it DOWN at floor) and Safe Affidavit. They will submit the DROS, one per gun, and get your thumbprint and signature. They should tell you when to come back, or call them, or something on your 10th day after DROS is submitted.
As far as giving the owner cash, I would then do the deal, outside of the shop. One thing I can tell you, is look the firearms over well for any damage or missing parts etc, before handing over the cash. After every things done, and you come back to finalize the DROS, they will get your thumbprint and signature once more, and you will need to have a lock on the firearms and a LOCKABLE container to put the weapons in to leave the store.
I might be forgetting something, and every store is different in how they do them. Some are more efficient then others.

The fees should be $10 per firearm, $37.19 for DROS, and thats it. Locks are $10 or less, some places have firearm cases for $10-30.

That is SUPER helpful, thank you! It's a Springfield M1A Socom which from everything I can tell is CA Legal. All good on the mags as well, and the handgun is CA Compliant.

Good to know about the lockable container when leaving, I had not heard that yet! The handgun will have it's factory box and the Socom its factory bag. I'm assuming the handgun box is lockable from Sig so that should be fine, but how does that work with a rifle? Ive got a few soft cases for the shotguns that aren't exactly lockable unless you count a padlock around the zippers as locked. Is that for handguns only?

Appreciate the insight on what to expect! I did call around and it seems like the DROS has to be paid for twice because they are two different guns. Not sure how that makes any sense, but we're in the land of nonsense so here we are.

[SkyHawk]

You need FSC for all guns not just handguns. That may be a question on the test so may as well point it out.

And since this is your first purchase, you should know if the FFL releases on undetermined, and what the seller is going to want down the road to deal with the hassle of unwinding this if it goes sideways. In CA, there are a lot of ways for a DROS to get stalled or worse. I always suggest that people avoid PPT for their first purchase but I know that may be difficult right now.

You might ask the FFL if they will do a DROS WORKSHEET so they can re-use the sellers info and signature if it has to be re-done, instead of the seller be required to come back.

Good luck!

[Milsurp1]

[Nardo1895]

Sounds like some dealers do it differently but when I do a safe handling demo I start with a locked unloaded firearm. I demonstrate how to unlock it, check to confirm its unloaded, load a dummy round, apply the safety, and then reverse the process. I then give the firearm to the buyer. They must do the same process without error or we start over. It has to be done with each firearm.

Anyone with common sense should be able to pass the FSC exam. But there are some questions regarding the law that you may not know. There is a study guide available on DOJ's website. I'm pretty sure you can get every legal question wrong and still pass the test, assuming you get the common sense stuff right.

If you go the gunsafe affidavit route, know that the Feds still require a lock for any non-C&R handgun. I'm not sure ATF enforces this.

Make sure that M1A has a muzzle brake and not a flash hider.

If it were me, unless I knew the seller personally I'd do the transaction in the gun store provided the owner was OK with that. Don't want someone running off with your Ben Franklins.

[BestCollateralSSF]

Soft case is fine. Padlock on the zippers is fine. Even a locking cable tie on the zippers is fine. The idea is that you cannot open the bag on a whim.

We have no problem if you transfer the cash in our store as long as you don't expect us to participate in it. Solely between you and the seller.

The LGS staff don't need to know anything about what you paid (although as collectors, some of us are nosy -- but you don't legally have to tell us).

[Yeatzee]

You need FSC for all guns not just handguns. That may be a question on the test so may as well point it out.

And since this is your first purchase, you should know if the FFL releases on undetermined, and what the seller is going to want down the road to deal with the hassle of unwinding this if it goes sideways. In CA, there are a lot of ways for a DROS to get stalled or worse. I always suggest that people avoid PPT for their first purchase but I know that may be difficult right now.

You might ask the FFL if they will do a DROS WORKSHEET so they can re-use the sellers info and signature if it has to be re-done, instead of the seller be required to come back.

Good luck!

Thanks for the correction, I was only ever in the market for a handgun originally so I just assumed the FSC was for that. I would also avoid a PPT for the first go if I could, but as you allude to there really is not other option for what I'm looking for. I had to fight tooth and nail to even get what I'm getting, no hope for them to be in shops.


Yes totally, was planning on getting there 30 min prior to knock that out.

Sounds like some dealers do it differently but when I do a safe handling demo I start with a locked unloaded firearm. I demonstrate how to unlock it, check to confirm its unloaded, load a dummy round, apply the safety, and then reverse the process. I then give the firearm to the buyer. They must do the same process without error or we start over. It has to be done with each firearm.

Anyone with common sense should be able to pass the FSC exam. But there are some questions regarding the law that you may not know. There is a study guide available on DOJ's website. I'm pretty sure you can get every legal question wrong and still pass the test, assuming you get the common sense stuff right.

If you go the gunsafe affidavit route, know that the Feds still require a lock for any non-C&R handgun. I'm not sure ATF enforces this.

Make sure that M1A has a muzzle brake and not a flash hider.

If it were me, unless I knew the seller personally I'd do the transaction in the gun store provided the owner was OK with that. Don't want someone running off with your Ben Franklins.

Good info as well. Happy to hear it's demonstrated first so that I can mimick! I know I'll pick it up quickly, but you can't know what you don't know. For the safe/lock requirement, I'm a little confused. The post below sounds like I just needed to lock the container the gun is in to walk out but now I'm reading I need to purchase one of those cable locks (CA DOJ approved) that goes through the receiver of the gun to walk out with it (as well?)? I wasn't intending to go the affidavit route. I'll get what I need to get, just unclear what that is.

Soft case is fine. Padlock on the zippers is fine. Even a locking cable tie on the zippers is fine. The idea is that you cannot open the bag on a whim.

We have no problem if you transfer the cash in our store as long as you don't expect us to participate in it. Solely between you and the seller.

The LGS staff don't need to know anything about what you paid (although as collectors, some of us are nosy -- but you don't legally have to tell us).

Good to know! Since I'm getting there early to do the FCS would it be an inappropriate to ask if the guy helping me would take a quick look at the guns for me when they come in to make sure they appear to be A-ok? Just because i have no experience with these guns, or anything like them (shotgun background, that's really it) I won't know exactly what to look for when looking them over. They are both pretty new, under 300 rounds each apparently but I would have no way of verifying that. Just don't want to miss anything critical. I'm guessing because the shop isn't involved in the sale they'll decline, but figured I'd ask here first to see if that happens on occasion. I'm probably overthinking it.

[Yeatzee]

Just wanted to give an update, met the guy and did the deal today. The test took maybe 5 minutes and was very easy, didn't miss any questions. The process start to finish was maybe 30 minutes and since I had everything prepared it was totally painless. The P226 Scorpion is even better than I was expecting and the Socom wasn't as unwieldy as I was expecting. I'm super excited! Now the 10 day wait and to buy some cable locks. Thanks again for all the help guys!