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Blade sharpening FAQ and resources

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  • #16
    omgwtfbbq
    Veteran Member
    • Jul 2009
    • 3445

    I have a side hobby of sharpening knives of all kinds from pocket knives to chefs knives.

    With a three step process I've gotten dull pocket knives to shaving sharp fairly easily.

    You need a decent two-sides whetstone, oil or water, and a leather, blade polishing strop:

    1. Roughing-out or reshaping the blade edge:

    NOTE: This step is for truly dull knives, meaning the bur (the true cutting edge) of the blade is gone or nearly gone. You can skip this step if all you need to do is make a decent cutting edge a great one.

    You start on the lower grit side of the whetstone. I use a 600/1000 grit bar at home. So on the 600 grit bar you place your slurry medium on the bar. This can be honing oil, water, or any all-purpose oil you have around the house (I personally use Hoppes 9 gun oil). Then you pass the blade over the stone surface in a consistent semi-circular motion with the blade facing away from you with the blade at the correct angle (15 degrees for chefs/kitchen knives, 20-25 for pocket knives and 30 for large hunting knives) for a given number of strokes. I usually start with 50. After you've completed the 50 strokes on one side of the blade you flip the knife over and do the same thing on the other side (this time the knife will be coming towards you rather than away, be careful).

    As I said, I start with 50 strokes on either side, then I check the bur. If you have really good eyes you can kind of see the bur under magnification but the easiest way to see if you raised one is the pass the knife edge over your skin perpendicular to the blade edge. If there is a rough feeling, you're raising the bur. If you test the bur after 50 passes and you don't feel it, you need to give it 50 more passes per side. If not then, another 25 and so on unto you raise the bur. It's hard work, but it's the foundation for a sharp and durable knife. Once the blade is shaped, you shouldn't have to reshape it again for a very long time provided you are taking proper care of your knife.

    2. Flip over your two-sided stone to the finer grit side, repeat the lubricating process. Then pass the blade over the stone as you did before. However, you won't be doing it for 50+ strokes. You will do 5 strokes in one direction and then 5 in the opposite direction. Remember to hold the knife at the correct angle, the same as when you used the rougher grit side. You should begin to notice the blade begin to move more smoothly over the stone surface, with less resistance. This is a good thing. When I get to this point, I typically test the blade on scrap paper or cardboard to see how sharp the blade is. If I'm happy with it, I'll move onto step three. If I'm not, it needs more passes on the finer grit stone.

    3. Now it's time to break out the stropping block and honing compound (usually comes in a solid or paste form). This is the part that really takes a sharp blade to razor sharp; polishing. You don't need to do this with chefs or kitchen knives, at least IMHO.

    You apply the honing compound to the leather side of the stropping block liberally and then pass the blade over the surface of the block similarly to how you did on the whetstone except with the blade facing the opposite way. You want to move the blade in the opposite direction as if you were cutting something, meaning the blunt edge of the blade is leading the motion rather than the cutting edge. I do this in a "1 for 1" motion, swiping one direction on one side of the blade then turning over the blade and swiping the other direction on the other side of the blade. I usually try to get 20 or so passes per side (again you will notice the difference of how the blade feels on the leather after practice) and then test with paper or cardboard.

    If the edge seems really sharp, I "shave" a little of my arm hair off with it. If it can't shave at least a few hairs off, then it needs to be polished more, or maybe even needs to go back to the finer side of the whetstone and then repolished.


    PS: DO NOT wipe the blackish looking steal shavings on your blade during the stone sharpening phases. You want those shavings to mix with the oil or water you are using as lube to create a slurry that will aid in sharpening the blade.

    Hope this helps. If you are interested in more info or if you want a knife sharpened, PM me.
    Last edited by omgwtfbbq; 01-22-2016, 9:37 AM.
    "Far and away the best prize life has to offer is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." - Theodore Roosevelt

    Originally posted by rmorris7556
    They teach you secret stuff I can't mention on line.

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    • #17
      Librarian
      Admin and Poltergeist
      CGN Contributor - Lifetime
      • Oct 2005
      • 44627

      Another sharpening thread, http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/s....php?t=1575622
      ARCHIVED Calguns Foundation Wiki here: http://web.archive.org/web/201908310...itle=Main_Page

      Frozen in 2015, it is falling out of date and I can no longer edit the content. But much of it is still good!

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      • #18
        TacKnives
        Junior Member
        • May 2024
        • 1

        Sharpening a blade knife requires special care and tools, as the tiny serrations need to be preserved for the knife to function effectively. Here are the steps to sharpen a microserrated blade knife:

        Materials Needed:
        • Serrated knife sharpener (a sharpening rod or tapered sharpening stone specifically designed for serrated edges)
        • Honing oil or water (if recommended by the sharpening tool manufacturer)
        • Clean cloth
        Steps:
        1. Choose the Right Tool: Use a sharpening rod or a tapered sharpening stone designed for serrated blades. These tools can fit into the small serrations without damaging them.
        2. Clean the Knife: Ensure the knife is clean and free of any food particles or debris before sharpening.
        3. Identify the Serrated Side: Most serrated knives are only serrated on one side. Identify this side and place it facing up.
        4. Sharpen the Serrations:
          • Position the Rod: Insert the rod or tapered stone into the serration closest to the handle.
          • Match the Angle: Align the rod with the angle of the serration. Typically, this is between 13 and 17 degrees, but check the manufacturer's guidelines if available.
          • Stroke the Serration: Gently stroke the rod through the serration, moving from the base to the tip of the knife. Use light pressure and ensure you follow the contour of the serration.
          • Repeat: Continue this process for each serration along the blade. Work methodically to ensure you sharpen each serration evenly.
        5. Sharpen the Flat Side: If the flat side of the knife has burrs (tiny rough edges created during sharpening), gently lay the flat side against a fine-grit sharpening stone or ceramic rod. Use light pressure to remove the burrs by making a few gentle strokes.
        6. Clean the Knife: After sharpening, wipe the blade with a clean cloth to remove any metal filings or debris.
        7. Test the Sharpness: Carefully test the knife on a piece of paper or a soft vegetable to ensure it has been sharpened effectively. It should cut smoothly without tearing.
        Additional Tips:
        • Frequency: Microserrated blades do not need to be sharpened as frequently as straight-edged knives. Sharpen only when you notice a significant decrease in performance.
        • Professional Sharpening: If you are unsure about sharpening the knife yourself or if the knife is expensive, consider taking it to a professional knife sharpener.
        • Maintenance: Regularly hone the knife with a ceramic rod to maintain its edge between sharpenings.
        • Choosing Sturdy Knives: Find the perfect folding pocket knife for your everyday carry at Tacknives USA.
        By following these steps, you can effectively sharpen a microserrated blade knife, maintaining its performance and extending its lifespan.

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