I have a side hobby of sharpening knives of all kinds from pocket knives to chefs knives.
With a three step process I've gotten dull pocket knives to shaving sharp fairly easily.
You need a decent two-sides whetstone, oil or water, and a leather, blade polishing strop:
1. Roughing-out or reshaping the blade edge:
NOTE: This step is for truly dull knives, meaning the bur (the true cutting edge) of the blade is gone or nearly gone. You can skip this step if all you need to do is make a decent cutting edge a great one.
You start on the lower grit side of the whetstone. I use a 600/1000 grit bar at home. So on the 600 grit bar you place your slurry medium on the bar. This can be honing oil, water, or any all-purpose oil you have around the house (I personally use Hoppes 9 gun oil). Then you pass the blade over the stone surface in a consistent semi-circular motion with the blade facing away from you with the blade at the correct angle (15 degrees for chefs/kitchen knives, 20-25 for pocket knives and 30 for large hunting knives) for a given number of strokes. I usually start with 50. After you've completed the 50 strokes on one side of the blade you flip the knife over and do the same thing on the other side (this time the knife will be coming towards you rather than away, be careful).
As I said, I start with 50 strokes on either side, then I check the bur. If you have really good eyes you can kind of see the bur under magnification but the easiest way to see if you raised one is the pass the knife edge over your skin perpendicular to the blade edge. If there is a rough feeling, you're raising the bur. If you test the bur after 50 passes and you don't feel it, you need to give it 50 more passes per side. If not then, another 25 and so on unto you raise the bur. It's hard work, but it's the foundation for a sharp and durable knife. Once the blade is shaped, you shouldn't have to reshape it again for a very long time provided you are taking proper care of your knife.
2. Flip over your two-sided stone to the finer grit side, repeat the lubricating process. Then pass the blade over the stone as you did before. However, you won't be doing it for 50+ strokes. You will do 5 strokes in one direction and then 5 in the opposite direction. Remember to hold the knife at the correct angle, the same as when you used the rougher grit side. You should begin to notice the blade begin to move more smoothly over the stone surface, with less resistance. This is a good thing. When I get to this point, I typically test the blade on scrap paper or cardboard to see how sharp the blade is. If I'm happy with it, I'll move onto step three. If I'm not, it needs more passes on the finer grit stone.
3. Now it's time to break out the stropping block and honing compound (usually comes in a solid or paste form). This is the part that really takes a sharp blade to razor sharp; polishing. You don't need to do this with chefs or kitchen knives, at least IMHO.
You apply the honing compound to the leather side of the stropping block liberally and then pass the blade over the surface of the block similarly to how you did on the whetstone except with the blade facing the opposite way. You want to move the blade in the opposite direction as if you were cutting something, meaning the blunt edge of the blade is leading the motion rather than the cutting edge. I do this in a "1 for 1" motion, swiping one direction on one side of the blade then turning over the blade and swiping the other direction on the other side of the blade. I usually try to get 20 or so passes per side (again you will notice the difference of how the blade feels on the leather after practice) and then test with paper or cardboard.
If the edge seems really sharp, I "shave" a little of my arm hair off with it. If it can't shave at least a few hairs off, then it needs to be polished more, or maybe even needs to go back to the finer side of the whetstone and then repolished.
PS: DO NOT wipe the blackish looking steal shavings on your blade during the stone sharpening phases. You want those shavings to mix with the oil or water you are using as lube to create a slurry that will aid in sharpening the blade.
Hope this helps. If you are interested in more info or if you want a knife sharpened, PM me.
With a three step process I've gotten dull pocket knives to shaving sharp fairly easily.
You need a decent two-sides whetstone, oil or water, and a leather, blade polishing strop:
1. Roughing-out or reshaping the blade edge:
NOTE: This step is for truly dull knives, meaning the bur (the true cutting edge) of the blade is gone or nearly gone. You can skip this step if all you need to do is make a decent cutting edge a great one.
You start on the lower grit side of the whetstone. I use a 600/1000 grit bar at home. So on the 600 grit bar you place your slurry medium on the bar. This can be honing oil, water, or any all-purpose oil you have around the house (I personally use Hoppes 9 gun oil). Then you pass the blade over the stone surface in a consistent semi-circular motion with the blade facing away from you with the blade at the correct angle (15 degrees for chefs/kitchen knives, 20-25 for pocket knives and 30 for large hunting knives) for a given number of strokes. I usually start with 50. After you've completed the 50 strokes on one side of the blade you flip the knife over and do the same thing on the other side (this time the knife will be coming towards you rather than away, be careful).
As I said, I start with 50 strokes on either side, then I check the bur. If you have really good eyes you can kind of see the bur under magnification but the easiest way to see if you raised one is the pass the knife edge over your skin perpendicular to the blade edge. If there is a rough feeling, you're raising the bur. If you test the bur after 50 passes and you don't feel it, you need to give it 50 more passes per side. If not then, another 25 and so on unto you raise the bur. It's hard work, but it's the foundation for a sharp and durable knife. Once the blade is shaped, you shouldn't have to reshape it again for a very long time provided you are taking proper care of your knife.
2. Flip over your two-sided stone to the finer grit side, repeat the lubricating process. Then pass the blade over the stone as you did before. However, you won't be doing it for 50+ strokes. You will do 5 strokes in one direction and then 5 in the opposite direction. Remember to hold the knife at the correct angle, the same as when you used the rougher grit side. You should begin to notice the blade begin to move more smoothly over the stone surface, with less resistance. This is a good thing. When I get to this point, I typically test the blade on scrap paper or cardboard to see how sharp the blade is. If I'm happy with it, I'll move onto step three. If I'm not, it needs more passes on the finer grit stone.
3. Now it's time to break out the stropping block and honing compound (usually comes in a solid or paste form). This is the part that really takes a sharp blade to razor sharp; polishing. You don't need to do this with chefs or kitchen knives, at least IMHO.
You apply the honing compound to the leather side of the stropping block liberally and then pass the blade over the surface of the block similarly to how you did on the whetstone except with the blade facing the opposite way. You want to move the blade in the opposite direction as if you were cutting something, meaning the blunt edge of the blade is leading the motion rather than the cutting edge. I do this in a "1 for 1" motion, swiping one direction on one side of the blade then turning over the blade and swiping the other direction on the other side of the blade. I usually try to get 20 or so passes per side (again you will notice the difference of how the blade feels on the leather after practice) and then test with paper or cardboard.
If the edge seems really sharp, I "shave" a little of my arm hair off with it. If it can't shave at least a few hairs off, then it needs to be polished more, or maybe even needs to go back to the finer side of the whetstone and then repolished.
PS: DO NOT wipe the blackish looking steal shavings on your blade during the stone sharpening phases. You want those shavings to mix with the oil or water you are using as lube to create a slurry that will aid in sharpening the blade.
Hope this helps. If you are interested in more info or if you want a knife sharpened, PM me.
Comment