Steel preference

[DoNotReply]

Which steel to you prefer for sharpness, sharpening ability and edge retention? I haven't had a whole lot of success with VG10 but for some reason ZDP189 seems to be easier to keep a sharp edge for me. Maybe because the edge never gets too dull to begin with. Carbon steel and softer stainless blades sharpen up pretty easy but stainless needs to be touched up more often.

[NapalmCheese]

Generally speaking I prefer to quickly touch up my blade more often, than spend a long time sharpening something that holds an edge well.

I find CPM-154 and 154-CM to be the best compromise of edge holding and sharpenability for my preferences; but then I also like 1075, 1080, and 1095 just fine too.

I don't care for VG-10.

[RustyIron]

Without a doubt, K390.
Easy to sharpen,
holds an edge,
resists damage.

[FatCity67]

Old school 1095 56-59RC.

[Garbcollector]

Kinda like D2

[Tripplet918]

Generally speaking I prefer to quickly touch up my blade more often, than spend a long time sharpening something that holds an edge well.

I find CPM-154 and 154-CM to be the best compromise of edge holding and sharpenability for my preferences; but then I also like 1075, 1080, and 1095 just fine too.

I don't care for VG-10.

Same, 154CM. Best balance for edge retention and effort to resharpen. Thus considering I have a electric belt knife sharpener.

[Horsewright]

I've made and sold many thousands of knives. For day to day EDC/work type knives I've settled on two specific steels one stainless the other high carbon. Both are run a little harder then ya often see.

In stainless I use AEB-L at 62-63RC Its a great steel and one of the toughest of the stainless steels. It takes a great wickedly sharp edge and holds it very well. One of the great attributes of this steel is with a little touch up or stropping its easy to bring it back to 100 percent. I use this steel in my own leather knives that I make for myself. A leather roundknife is the one tool thats never put away, its always on the workbench. I will cut leather for hours at a time. A few licks on a strop when it starts to drag and right back at it. It might be months and months before I put a roundknife to a stone and I cut a lot of leather. But I'll stop every once and a while and touch er up with that strop and she just keeps going.

In high carbon steel I use 26C3 run at 63-64RC. Again it takes a wickedly sharp edge and holds it very well. I find that it has similar attributes to the AEB-L in its ease of touch up.

Most of the knives I make are aimed at the cowboy/rancher market. When you've got 250 calves to do before lunch you are gonna have to touch up that knife I don't care what its made of. Thats why my emphasis on and easy to keep sharp knife even in the branding pen or in the field. Few strops on your chaps and you are back in business.

AEB-L:





26C3:





I've worked with most other steels and these are the two that seem to suit my needs and my customers needs quite well.

Have to say for a larger dedicated hunter or skinner I'm pretty fond of A2 run at 62RC.

[jgerundio]

CPM 20CV for me. Also I've seen S30V and S35VN on more affordable knives lately.