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New reproduction pins used to lock the trigger guard screws of the German G43 / K43 semi-auto rifles.
The originals are often found to have been snapped off -- by uninformed disassemblers, or maybe troops who got tired of pushing the little spring-loaded detent pins down to remove the trigger guard / action screws.
I machine replacements out of stainless steel rod. Blackened for appearance. Unlike the other repros I've seen on the market (and I woulda bought those except I can't find them anymore), mine have a tapered lower flange, like the originals, to match the taper of the underside of the trigger guard screws (like the original).
Available as long as supplies (stainless rod stock) and my patience / interest last.
Price: $25 for a pair, same as downtown. Includes first-class postage anywhere in USA. Contact me by private message. I don't take PayPal (/rant mode on/ anti-gun, and coming soon, like all Big Tech, likely tracking and finking out gun owners to our New Overlords -- call me paranoid, I don't care -- all the things I predicted to friends a year ago, have come true, and there's much more to come. I just checked my e-mail logs -- I first used the phrase "For those who say it can't happen here, it's happening here" -- in February 2014. /end rant/). So check or money order is fine. Or pick up in person in Costa Mesa near the Fairgrounds.
Background info may be found on Klaus Espeholt's excellent site, at
about halfway down.
Hints for installation: Be careful not to lose the spring. I don't have any of those and they're not a standard US size. Everything off-the-shelf is either too large or too small in diameter. So tap your broken pins out over a large towel on a countertop or something. It helps to use something like a "bench block" or use a board with a hole drilled in it, resting on the countertop, to capture the bits as they get punched out.
By tapping them out, the narrow, upper flange pushes back the dimple on the trigger guard. This dimple (see Espeholt photos) is all that holds it in -- the pins are free to jiggle back and forth, against spring force, between the two flanges hitting the dimple. It doesn't take much to re-dimple the trigger guard to complete installation -- the wall is thin there, and clearance between the wall and the flanges is only a few thousandths. I use an automatic center punch on a "soft" setting, in the existing factory punch mark, gradually working up until the pin can't come out anymore (and maybe one gentle punch more for insurance). It may be useful to use an actual trigger guard screw, held in place by a regular M6 nut, to keep it all from flying apart while you dimple. Or for that matter while you punch out the broken bits.
If you don't have holes in the tops of those two "towers" for the trigger guard screws, it gets a bit more complicated. I made a hardened steel punch that's a snug running fit in the bore, and has a counterbore to just clear the remains of the pin. That "irons out" the dimple.
The originals are often found to have been snapped off -- by uninformed disassemblers, or maybe troops who got tired of pushing the little spring-loaded detent pins down to remove the trigger guard / action screws.
I machine replacements out of stainless steel rod. Blackened for appearance. Unlike the other repros I've seen on the market (and I woulda bought those except I can't find them anymore), mine have a tapered lower flange, like the originals, to match the taper of the underside of the trigger guard screws (like the original).
Available as long as supplies (stainless rod stock) and my patience / interest last.
Price: $25 for a pair, same as downtown. Includes first-class postage anywhere in USA. Contact me by private message. I don't take PayPal (/rant mode on/ anti-gun, and coming soon, like all Big Tech, likely tracking and finking out gun owners to our New Overlords -- call me paranoid, I don't care -- all the things I predicted to friends a year ago, have come true, and there's much more to come. I just checked my e-mail logs -- I first used the phrase "For those who say it can't happen here, it's happening here" -- in February 2014. /end rant/). So check or money order is fine. Or pick up in person in Costa Mesa near the Fairgrounds.
Background info may be found on Klaus Espeholt's excellent site, at
about halfway down.
Hints for installation: Be careful not to lose the spring. I don't have any of those and they're not a standard US size. Everything off-the-shelf is either too large or too small in diameter. So tap your broken pins out over a large towel on a countertop or something. It helps to use something like a "bench block" or use a board with a hole drilled in it, resting on the countertop, to capture the bits as they get punched out.
By tapping them out, the narrow, upper flange pushes back the dimple on the trigger guard. This dimple (see Espeholt photos) is all that holds it in -- the pins are free to jiggle back and forth, against spring force, between the two flanges hitting the dimple. It doesn't take much to re-dimple the trigger guard to complete installation -- the wall is thin there, and clearance between the wall and the flanges is only a few thousandths. I use an automatic center punch on a "soft" setting, in the existing factory punch mark, gradually working up until the pin can't come out anymore (and maybe one gentle punch more for insurance). It may be useful to use an actual trigger guard screw, held in place by a regular M6 nut, to keep it all from flying apart while you dimple. Or for that matter while you punch out the broken bits.
If you don't have holes in the tops of those two "towers" for the trigger guard screws, it gets a bit more complicated. I made a hardened steel punch that's a snug running fit in the bore, and has a counterbore to just clear the remains of the pin. That "irons out" the dimple.
