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Long Range practice
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WTB : Bren Ten - WTB : Wildey 45 & 475 Magnum -
I'm running Retumbo. I jacked my jump test from Berger. If you google "Berger Jump Test" it will give you particulars.
It's basically .002" off
.042" off
.082" off
.120" off
They also give you one where you start jammed, but I'm not interested in that, makes a mess if you have to extract round without firing. You can fine tune it once you find what the rifle likes "in general". I like to find where accuracy starts to degrade and keep them as long as possible, then as rifle wears, you are still in the "happy spot".Comment
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Hoffer
The Berger Jump Test is 0.040 increments. My Dashers like 0.020 into the lands and 0.125 off of the lands. My 300 Ackley liked 0.020 into the land and 0.185 off of the lands. My 300 WSM likes 0.020 into the lands but that was a flat based bullet not a VLD.
KingAir
6000 FPS you can get with a 300 Weatherby and solids I would go for 8000 FPS.Lynn Dragoman, Jr.
Southwest Regional Director
Unlimited Range Shooters Association (URSA)
www.unlimitedrange.org
Not a commercial business.
URSA - Competition starts at 2000 yards!Comment
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Yea, sorry, I didn't come right and answer...oops.
I would keep Chrono on while doing the test as well. I used to find powder charge where I got best/most consistent speeds, then do jump test to find best accuracy. I've seen a correlation between jump/SD with both this rifle and my last one.Comment
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Which adjustable base are you using - MOAB Gen 4? If so, and in regards all MOABs, I have never heard the complaint that the "wheel moved". Tell us more.LMAO
Damn wheel on my adjustable base moved again while shooting, found that there is a tensioning screw that you can lock the wheel in where it is set. That would've been handy information to have! It didn't come with paperwork. Better to find out now than during the match I reckon!
Facilitator, Unlimited Range Shooters Association (URSA)
NRA Life Member, CRPA Life Member
www.unlimitedrange.org
Not a commercial business.
URSA - Competition starts at 2000 yards!Comment
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Comment
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Gen 4 MOAB, I had it zeroed, shot groups both Friday and today, after shooting a string of keys say 9 rounds. looked at knob for elevation on base. It was no longer on zero, (both days) it had moved from zero, don't remember how far, it was more than a full MOA, but less than 2. Don't know if I hit it manipulating bolt or if it moved under recoil. When I got home I discovered there is a set screw to lock it in place. It will be locked after I dial it from now on.
Weird thing is we shot at distance Saturday and I was paying close attention to it, as it had moved on Friday when zeroing, and we were just shooting 5 rounds per distance and it never moved from where I put it. Not sure, but I will be utilizing the set screw from now on.Comment
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Randall Rausch
AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
Handguns: www.handgunbarrels.com
Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
Most work done while you wait on a scheduled shop visit.Comment
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Ok Lynn . . . I have to confess . . . it's a 22/50BMG Eargesplitten Loudenboomer
You can see that it wil be a fast round . . . the barrel is already smoking now !Last edited by Kingair001; 08-06-2017, 9:14 PM.WTB : Bren Ten - WTB : Wildey 45 & 475 MagnumComment
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Public Service Announcement
Talked to Heritage folks today after The Facilitator brought it to my attention that I shouldn't have adjusted the screw that I was playing with. Here is what I learned.
Don't mess with this screw, as it is for your positive stop for zero.

This is the screw that adjusts tension on the M.O.A.B adjuster wheel. It is located in the rear of the housing on the opposite side of the housing where it says GEN 4, so as you are looking at rifle from rear, on left side. You have to look at the side of unit and turn the wheel until the screw lines up with hole in the housing. You then tighten the screw until "resistance is felt when turning the adjustment wheel" (pay no attention to how dirty mine is, I shoot in the desert)
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Thanks for the info gents !Talked to Heritage folks today after The Facilitator brought it to my attention that I shouldn't have adjusted the screw that I was playing with. Here is what I learned.
Don't mess with this screw, as it is for your positive stop for zero.
This is the screw that adjusts tension on the M.O.A.B adjuster wheel. It is located in the rear of the housing on the opposite side of the housing where it says GEN 4, so as you are looking at rifle from rear, on left side. You have to look at the side of unit and turn the wheel until the screw lines up with hole in the housing. You then tighten the screw until "resistance is felt when turning the adjustment wheel" (pay no attention to how dirty mine is, I shoot in the desert)
WTB : Bren Ten - WTB : Wildey 45 & 475 MagnumComment
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