Long Range Scope Question

[Andy9161]

So I ordered a Viper PST-43127 from Rainier Arms over the weekend. They showed 1 left in stock.

I get a call from them yesterday saying so sorry we are OOS, but we will drop ship you one from Vortex. I agreed.

Came home this evening and a package is on my doorstep and its the scope. Problem(or maybe not) it is the Viper PST-624f1-a.

In looking into this it looks like the difference is the one I have in hand is mrad and the model i ordered is moa. And the hash markings are different. The one i ordered was the EBR2-C and this one is EBR-1.

So question is, which one will i be better off with being new to long range stuff?

I have a lot to learn about this, but want to make some educated choices since these things are not cheap(atleast to me.) =)

Thank you!

[kcstott]

Mil is easier to learn and apply.

being new to mil or moa it don't really matter though. as you haven't learned a system to corrupt learning a new system.

The mistake people make is trying to adapt mil to moa. every Mil dot chart made has Moa referenced on it.

A mill is simply 1/1000 of the distance you are shooting, that could be meters, Miles, feet, yards, inches, or cubits, it don't matter. most mil scope us 1/10 mil clicks so thats 1/10,000 of the distance you are shooting.

See easy.

As compared to

a 4" group @ 575 meters is how many moa?? well meters to yards then inches to moa
I never realised how much math i was doing til i start using mil and reduces the risk of error.

I carry a metric tape measure for group size and just record everything in mil. Moa only applies when I talk group size then i'll speak moa.


But Moa is a finer increment and allow finer adjustment. 1/10 mil = 1/3 moa roughly so a guy has you beat with a 1/4 moa click and really beat if he has 1/8 moa clicks.

but I can hold 1/8 moa on paper i don't need a dial to do it for me.

[Thoughts]

There aren't any comments on the "Christmas tree" in the EBR-2C vs the simple EBR-1 yet. I have only a little experience, but the grid in the EBR-2c could be handy for compensating for both wind and drop without dialing. It's a bit faster, allegedly, but if you always dial the drop, the extra grid in the EBR-2C might just be a visual annoyance to you. I'm going to try one of the reticles with a grid in my next scope, probably a Horus or Vortex version. Any chance you could rent a rifle for a course and try a reticle or two?

[NorCalFocus]

As long as the reticle matches the turrets with the same units MOA or MIL doesn't make a bit of difference. MIL is faster to dial in for extended ranges. Thats why you see most long range guys using it.

[Blade Gunner]

Either learn Mil or MOA or you'll constantly get confused trying to switch between the two.

[5gnut]

I have the exact one that was delivered to you, I have no complaints.
I also have a Bushnell ET 6-24 w/ G2 reticle which i believe is similar to the one you were going to get. Its a little quicker to hold for elevation and windage, but can be a little difficult

[kcstott]

There aren't any comments on the "Christmas tree" in the EBR-2C vs the simple EBR-1 yet. I have only a little experience, but the grid in the EBR-2c could be handy for compensating for both wind and drop without dialing. It's a bit faster, allegedly, but if you always dial the drop, the extra grid in the EBR-2C might just be a visual annoyance to you. I'm going to try one of the reticles with a grid in my next scope, probably a Horus or Vortex version. Any chance you could rent a rifle for a course and try a reticle or two?

I've always hated that Christmas tree crap. Just give me a TMR or TMR style reticle, I'll do the rest. I don't need all that other garbage clouding up my field of view.