Let's talk Bow Ties...

[Jon Road King]

So here is what I have come up with on the interwebs for cutting 1911 bow ties:

1. The cut should be only a couple thousands deep. (I just realized I could measure the depth of my Colt... but haven't yet... I'll revise the post later and post the actual depth of a Colt cut, unless someone else has it handy).
2. Can use this tool, and preferred method is to cut by hand.

Ok, so here's what I don't know:

1. If using a mill, what size end mill would you use? Also, what length?
2. Any other tips?

Thanks!

[ar15barrels]

I would not use an emdmill for that job for a couple reasons.
First, most endmills have a relief angle on the face so that won't cut a flat spotface and the spotface in the frame being flat is important.
Second, the EGW tool is supported by the frame to locate the cutter properly without any chance of cutting into the frame like a standard endmill would if the alignment is not perfect.

[Jon Road King]

I would not use an emdmill for that job for a couple reasons.
First, most endmills have a relief angle on the face so that won't cut a flat spotface and the spotface in the frame being flat is important.
Second, the EGW tool is supported by the frame to locate the cutter properly without any chance of cutting into the frame like a standard endmill would if the alignment is not perfect.

Interesting, and I understand the reasoning, but I have read that the relief angle doesn't matter since the 'point' of the cut ends up 'between' the lugs.

And I was actually thinking about tramming the frame up in the mill vice, in order to square everything up, but then just 'cutting' by hand (not under actual power... just spin the mill by hand...)

And not against getting the correct tool, I'm just researching other methods... I mean, it had to originally be done with an end mill, right? I imagine the EGW tool came much after folks started doing it... 'see a need, fill a need' kind of thing...

[ar15barrels]

it had to originally be done with an end mill, right?

Due to the depth and that factory frames are flat bottommed, I'm quite certain that any real shop that needed to make that cut would get/make a tool much like the EGW tool.

[kcstott]

Typical relief is 2˚ on a endmill so you'd be cutting a 4˚ included angle.

If it were me I'd either regrind a end mill with no tip relief or I'd grind a single lip cutter with a square end. Either one of which can be done by hand with the proper care and attention to cutter geometry. All we are doing in flattening an end mill, a bench grinder with a dressed wheel and a small square is all that is needed.