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Issue with my 1911 project. Assistance is appreciated.
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Sounds like your link is not the correct length And I'm not sure if it's to long or to short. but it looks like it's to short. preventing the barrel from going fully into battery.
Yes I know you can get it in to battery without a case Doesn't matter. That may be an issue of the barrel hood length and case length. But I feel your lock up issue and click is a link issue. as you proved it by removing the slide stop.
Try a longer link. -
I agree definitely link related due to the slide stop removal.
Disclaimer: I am not a gunsmith!
Just a suggestion: It may be a problem with tolerance stack between your link and the locking lugs/recesses in the slide. If your link is on the short side of nominal in length and your locking recesses in your slide are on the short side of width to nominal it might stack up to where it won't lock up unless forced. This might also explain why it is hard to unlock after a full slide release. Do you have access to inspection equipment(CMM,RAM) that can give you accurate readings of your dimensions?
JohnAnd in all fairness, just because JMB did it doesn't mean anything. He'd have won WWII with a soup can, a fork, and a couple rocks. Seriously, even McGuyver and Steven Hawking get together every now and then and are like "How the **** did he do that?..."Comment
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I think you need to take some off the lower lugs. Brownells has a special file but what I do is stick a drill bit in the slide stop hole and run the drill bit back and forth while trying to push the slide into battery, this usually works pretty well and have done it a few times now. Good luck.Comment
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Your barrel is not moving up to the locked position without the slide stop in place so it just seems like it chambers fine without it. Did you use a barrel lug cutter from Brownells? If so you may need to file a little more from the lugs until the barrel can lock fully up in battery against the slide stop pin without binding on the link.Comment
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From the video, it looks like the lower barrel lugs are not fitted correctly to the slide stop.
Pull the barrel and slide stop out of the gun.
Slip the slide stop through the link.
Swing the link through it's range of travel.
Does the slide stop properly clear the lower lugs and freely come to rest on the rear standing surface in the locked position or does the slide stop get tight and then POP over to the locked position?
Last edited by ar15barrels; 11-06-2014, 9:43 AM.Randall Rausch
AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
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Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
Most work performed while-you-wait.Comment
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I'm going to assume that the lower lugs were cut properly and you selected the correct size link. What size link are you using, btw? When you are looking at the barrel alone with link and pin installed, does the top of the lower link hole (the hole through which the slide stop goes) come proud of the lower lug at some point in the link's rotation?
Even if the top of the lower link hole is flush with the lower lugs when the gun is in battery, by nature of the link's rotation, the top of the link hole will come proud when the link is positioned slightly forward of the "in battery position". In fact if your lower lugs weren't fit to zero vertical tolerance against the slide lugs, upon slowly closing the slide, you'd see the barrel hood come up a couple thousandths just before coming back down to battery. If all of the above is correct in your case, clearancing a couple thousandths from the top of the lower link hole is all you need.Comment
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