Ruger Super Blackhawk ejector housing screw broken

[hoodrat]

I bought this gun in it's current condition. Ejector housing separated from the firearm along with the ejector and missing the ejector rod return spring.

The screw that fastens the housing to the barrel has broken between the two pieces. so I will have to remove both parts of the screw, from the housing and the barrel.

That's what I'd like advice on. I bought a decent screw extractor kit but before I start working on this project I wanted opinions from those that may have expertise in this area.

Thanks for reading.


20141015_151736-1-1-1 - Copy.jpg

['ol shooter]

Call Ruger, maybe they will warranty repair it. They are pretty good about that. Otherwise, a drill press with wood blocks and a good vise. A couple good left handed drill bits, and you might get the screw to walk out without an extractor. Good luck.

[ojisan]

The screw just goes through the housing, it doesn't thread in.
So the head end should just fall out of its recess.
(Looks like maybe that's not the right screw?)
It looks like there is enough screw sticking out of the barrel to grab it with needle nose or small vise grips.
Have you tried this?

[44fred]

I second sending to Ruger. If you are asking I'll assume you don't have the proper tools.
If Ruger is anything like S&W, they'll go over your gun from top to bottom as well, all at no charge.

[hoodrat]

The screw just goes through the housing, it doesn't thread in.
So the head end should just fall out of its recess.
(Looks like maybe that's not the right screw?)
It looks like there is enough screw sticking out of the barrel to grab it with needle nose or small vise grips.
Have you tried this?

It may be the wrong screw. The screw body coming from the barrel isn't proud at all. it's sitting flush at the bottom of a circular recessed key-way. The Housing has the male circular key that alines it properly on the barrel. there's nothing to grab there.

I'm hesitant to send it to Ruger as its a 3 screw model an doesn't have the transfer bar. if I send it in they may retrofit the gun. And I want to give it a shot. OJT

[hoodrat]

Call Ruger, maybe they will warranty repair it. They are pretty good about that. Otherwise, a drill press with wood blocks and a good vise. A couple good left handed drill bits, and you might get the screw to walk out without an extractor. Good luck.

Thanks for the advice

[hoodrat]

The screw just goes through the housing, it doesn't thread in.
So the head end should just fall out of its recess.
(Looks like maybe that's not the right screw?)
It looks like there is enough screw sticking out of the barrel to grab it with needle nose or small vise grips.
Have you tried this?

After playing with the housing and turning the screw I seemed as though there was a bushing or washer that the screw passed through. taking a piece of your advice I was able to grab the washer, if you will, with a vice grip and use a hallow ground Flathead to turn the screw and separate them.

[hoodrat]

The screw looks fine. compared to the photo on brownels I cant see a difference.

I think the threaded washer actually is an insert and needs to be braised (welded) back into the barrel and then the screw fastens the housing to the barrel. if thats the case there is no need to extract anything and things are looking up.

[orangeusa]

I had the SAME problem on a NM. My local gunsmith bought the screw and fixed it. Mine just fell out and I it got lost at the range, didn't break off, but doesn't matter. Screws can be removed.

He told me later is was a very dangerous situation. But I already knew that.

Hot revolvers beat up the cylinder rod.

A different gun I had - I had a 1958 Single Six had a fubar cylinder that Ruger would fix for free, but insisted on adding a transfer bar. I sold it to a collector on a Ruger forum.

I think the hype on transfer bars is over-done - the triggers of an OM and NM are so light that I don't see a difference.

If you are concerned about resale, sell it to a collector. If not - Ruger will do the job for free. No kidding.

.


.

[hoodrat]

[QUOTE=orangeusa;15077762]I had the SAME problem on a NM. My local gunsmith bought the screw and fixed it. Mine just fell out and I it got lost at the range, didn't break off, but doesn't matter. Screws can be removed.

He told me later is was a very dangerous situation. But I already knew that.

Hot revolvers beat up the cylinder rod.

A different gun I had - I had a 1958 Single Six had a fubar cylinder that Ruger would fix for free, but insisted on adding a transfer bar. I sold it to a collector on a Ruger forum.

I think the hype on transfer bars is over-done - the triggers of an OM and NM are so light that I don't see a difference.

If you are concerned about resale, sell it to a collector. If not - Ruger will do the job for free. No kidding.

.


.[/QUOTE

Thanks,

I will likely by a NM at some point. I may send this one in if fixing it becomes more of a problem than it's worth. But I do like working on my guns. This Super Blackhawk is a 1972 circa and has the polished blue job. It's something to behold, but I digress. If I don't have to neuter it I wont, It would be nice to keep it as is. Call it nostalgia. Thanks again for the feedback.

Can anyone confirm what I believe, that there is a threaded barrel insert that is braised, soldered into place?

[hoodrat]

I had the SAME problem on a NM. My local gunsmith bought the screw and fixed it. Mine just fell out and I it got lost at the range, didn't break off, but doesn't matter. Screws can be removed.

He told me later is was a very dangerous situation. But I already knew that.

Hot revolvers beat up the cylinder rod.

A different gun I had - I had a 1958 Single Six had a fubar cylinder that Ruger would fix for free, but insisted on adding a transfer bar. I sold it to a collector on a Ruger forum.

I think the hype on transfer bars is over-done - the triggers of an OM and NM are so light that I don't see a difference.

If you are concerned about resale, sell it to a collector. If not - Ruger will do the job for free. No kidding.

.


.

orangeusa, would you look at the pic i uploaded my original reply, did your barrel look like this without the housing?

[Hamsterbear]

.

.......... If not - Ruger will do the job for free. No kidding.

Ruger will not touch any of their original 3-screw single action revolvers unless you ALSO have them do the safety modification. I know, spoke to them directly.
If you want to keep it all original, find parts and have a gunsmith repair it.

[M1NM]

I'm hesitant to send it to Ruger as its a 3 screw model an doesn't have the transfer bar. if I send it in they may retrofit the gun. And I want to give it a shot. OJT

Find a good local gunsmith or machine shop. EDM would work if the screw is bottomed out but I don't know if that would mess up the bluing. DON'T send it to Ruger. They will not return it without doing the conversion. They do return the old parts. I'm told they stamp the frame to denote it's been retrofitted which would effect the value. If you are determined to try yourself use a left handed drill bit about 1/2 the screw diameter. The screw is too small to use an extractor easily.

[orangeusa]

orangeusa, would you look at the pic i uploaded my original reply, did your barrel look like this without the housing?

I never took mine apart - it was a problem of the screw vibrating out and I couldn't find one. Sorry.

But if it's an insert and needs to be soldered or braised back in, man - that's not a job I would undertake. But that's me.... Even if I had my oxy welder (which I sold), I would be worried about tempering the barrel. I could be wrong. I'd ask a smart gunsmith (yes they are rare )

.

[orangeusa]

Ruger will not touch any of their original 3-screw single action revolvers unless you ALSO have them do the safety modification. I know, spoke to them directly.
If you want to keep it all original, find parts and have a gunsmith repair it.

That was my point. I spoke to them ALSO.