Best 80% Jig: Opinions on Merits & Drawbacks of Different Jigs

[spyde12]

Just ordered my Modulus Arms Heavy Jig, and tool kit... Might do a review/ build documentation. Is that promo still going on?

PM them here and find out for sure. Worth asking to confirm

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[Baytriot]

I'm finally ready to start! Home Depot online order was lagging big time. Should've just gone into the store to exchange my old router and a drill I never opened for the Rigid Router a long time ago. The 80% arms jig is really nice looking but haven't tested it yet so can't speak to its usability although if you look at the pictures you can clearly see it's a nicer looking product with a better finish than most 80% lowers. I almost feel bad if I scratch it up, which is inevitable. I just realized my tap magic was empty from some steam engine builds so I purchased a cheaper, supposedly thicker cutting lube.

I hear a lot of tension in posts when it comes to cutting the trigger hole so I may need advice when I get there. I found a vacuum nozzle that will be attached around the buffer tube hole so hopefully that will help keep it cleanish and if not I'll just use compressed air to clean it after each pass. This jig looks nothing like the homemade looking jig I used before. The fact that my first try with this is going to be on 7075T6 aluminum makes me a little nervous but if I go real slow and lube constantly it should work. I'll trade speed for a quality homemade finished product any day.

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[Baytriot]

Oh, and I got the bits, end and collar kit from 80% Arms because of the reviews I read saying they where less likely to cut into the jig itself since the cutting tool isn't fluted as far up the shaft as others. I'll be making a list of all the tips and tricks others have posted to review as I work. Once I do one lower correctly the following lowers will be easier.

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[0mannon0]

I'm finally ready to start! Home Depot online order was lagging big time. Should've just gone into the store to exchange my old router and a drill I never opened for the Rigid Router a long time ago. The 80% arms jig is really nice looking but haven't tested it yet so can't speak to its usability although if you look at the pictures you can clearly see it's a nicer looking product with a better finish than most 80% lower jigs. I almost feel bad if I scratch it up, which is inevitable. I just realized my tap magic was empty from some steam engine builds so I purchased a cheaper, supposedly thicker cutting lube.

I hear a lot of tension in posts when it comes to cutting the trigger hole so I may need advice when I get there. I found a vacuum nozzle that will be attached around the buffer tube hole so hopefully that will help keep it cleanish and if not I'll just use compressed air to clean it after each pass. This jig looks nothing like the homemade looking jig I used before. The fact that my first try with this is going to be on 7075T6 aluminum makes me a little nervous but if I go real slow and lube constantly it should work. I'll trade speed for a quality homemade finished product any day.

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There, fixed that for you friendo.

Let us know how things go.

0mannon0

[spyde12]

I'm finally ready to start! Home Depot online order was lagging big time. Should've just gone into the store to exchange my old router and a drill I never opened for the Rigid Router a long time ago. The 80% arms jig is really nice looking but haven't tested it yet so can't speak to its usability although if you look at the pictures you can clearly see it's a nicer looking product with a better finish than most 80% lowers. I almost feel bad if I scratch it up, which is inevitable. I just realized my tap magic was empty from some steam engine builds so I purchased a cheaper, supposedly thicker cutting lube.

I hear a lot of tension in posts when it comes to cutting the trigger hole so I may need advice when I get there. I found a vacuum nozzle that will be attached around the buffer tube hole so hopefully that will help keep it cleanish and if not I'll just use compressed air to clean it after each pass. This jig looks nothing like the homemade looking jig I used before. The fact that my first try with this is going to be on 7075T6 aluminum makes me a little nervous but if I go real slow and lube constantly it should work. I'll trade speed for a quality homemade finished product any day.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Oh, and I got the bits, end and collar kit from 80% Arms because of the reviews I read saying they where less likely to cut into the jig itself since the cutting tool isn't fluted as far up the shaft as others. I'll be making a list of all the tips and tricks others have posted to review as I work. Once I do one lower correctly the following lowers will be easier.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Good luck dude! 7075 isn't hard to do. You'll just have to split each hash mark into 3

I'm finally ready to start! Home Depot online order was lagging big time. Should've just gone into the store to exchange my old router and a drill I never opened for the Rigid Router a long time ago. The 80% arms jig is really nice looking but haven't tested it yet so can't speak to its usability although if you look at the pictures you can clearly see it's a nicer looking product with a better finish than most 80% lowers. I almost feel bad if I scratch it up, which is inevitable. I just realized my tap magic was empty from some steam engine builds so I purchased a cheaper, supposedly thicker cutting lube.

I hear a lot of tension in posts when it comes to cutting the trigger hole so I may need advice when I get there. I found a vacuum nozzle that will be attached around the buffer tube hole so hopefully that will help keep it cleanish and if not I'll just use compressed air to clean it after each pass. This jig looks nothing like the homemade looking jig I used before. The fact that my first try with this is going to be on 7075T6 aluminum makes me a little nervous but if I go real slow and lube constantly it should work. I'll trade speed for a quality homemade finished product any day.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Good luck dude! 7075 isn't hard to do. You'll just have to split each hash mark into 3

Oh, and I got the bits, end and collar kit from 80% Arms because of the reviews I read saying they where less likely to cut into the jig itself since the cutting tool isn't fluted as far up the shaft as others. I'll be making a list of all the tips and tricks others have posted to review as I work. Once I do one lower correctly the following lowers will be easier.

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Good luck dude! 7075 isn't hard to do. You'll just have to split each hash mark into 2-3 passes. You can go deep, but you'll beat up your endmill.

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[Jimi Jah]

7025 is hard stuff. Take light depth passes, more of them. The MA heavy-duty steel jig is massive and weighs about 10 lbs. The finish is smooth and tolerances are very tight. It won't wear like aluminum will. It should last for many lowers.

[golfish]

I'm finally ready to start! Home Depot online order was lagging big time. Should've just gone into the store to exchange my old router and a drill I never opened for the Rigid Router a long time ago. The 80% arms jig is really nice looking but haven't tested it yet so can't speak to its usability although if you look at the pictures you can clearly see it's a nicer looking product with a better finish than most 80% lowers. I almost feel bad if I scratch it up, which is inevitable. I just realized my tap magic was empty from some steam engine builds so I purchased a cheaper, supposedly thicker cutting lube.

I hear a lot of tension in posts when it comes to cutting the trigger hole so I may need advice when I get there. I found a vacuum nozzle that will be attached around the buffer tube hole so hopefully that will help keep it cleanish and if not I'll just use compressed air to clean it after each pass. This jig looks nothing like the homemade looking jig I used before. The fact that my first try with this is going to be on 7075T6 aluminum makes me a little nervous but if I go real slow and lube constantly it should work. I'll trade speed for a quality homemade finished product any day.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Keep your eyes open when using that router. I had lots of problems with two of them and the Dewalt Trim router. The end mill wants to pull down so when the collet loosens up and or the depth adjustment loosens it will start cutting more then you want. The full size router works much better for me.

I know JAE had a good way of cutting the trigger hole. I just found that making 3-4 passes instead of 1-2 cleans the hole up better.

I use this attachment on my shop vac while I'm cutting. It slips right in the rear of the jig

[Baytriot]

Finished up the drilled holes. Checked for slippage with the depth gauge probably 2-3 times per hole because I was nervous after reading what other had said about the collet loosening. I used tons of cutting fluid and all went pretty well except the mess I made. They call it the Easy jig and so far it has been easy other than the cleanup.

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[FreshTapCoke]

I bought the original Modulus Arms jig when they first came out. That jig has made been used to make at least four lowers and is still working. I do wish they had the heavy duty jig back then!

I received excellent customer service from Modulus Arms. I purchased three of their lowers but had not researched them enough and ended up with a finish I did not like. When I emailed them and asked if there was anything they could do, they kindly set aside some unfinished 80%s and exchanged them with me.

Also, since no one I knew had done any aluminum machining, they were very helpful with a lot of my newbie questions.

[Baytriot]

Milling halfway. The 7075 aluminum chips have scratched up the plate as you can see but it's just cosmetic. The clear plastic base of the router however is completely scratched up. Neither affects usability but if I want to use the router for trim again I'll replace the base.

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[Baytriot]

The pocket finished. Does anyone know if sanding the walls, even smoother so there are no tooling marks, will cause any problems? It's barely any material removal but I don't want mess up the dimensions or specs.

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[Baytriot]

Milled out the rear. This was easy and very fast. Took about 25 minutes with lots of measuring twice and lube. So far the process has been enjoyable. First living room gun build I've done and the only problems I've run across are 1- I lifted the tool before it stopped and scratched the inside of pocket wall. 2- The mess of doing something like this in my apartment. 3- I want to sand the walls of the pocket smoother and don't know if it will affect the function.

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[spyde12]

Milled out the rear. This was easy and very fast. Took about 25 minutes with lots of measuring twice and lube. So far the process has been enjoyable. First living room gun build I've done and the only problems I've run across are 1- I lifted the tool before it stopped and scratched the inside of pocket wall. 2- The mess of doing something like this in my apartment. 3- I want to sand the walls of the pocket smoother and don't know if it will affect the function.

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Good job dude! I think bead blasting will help, but it could ruin the anodized finish. I've left mine alone. I'm not sure if filing it will get you the results you're looking for. It'll get scuffed once you install a drop in trigger or a standard trigger.

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[Baytriot]

Good job dude! I think bead blasting will help, but it could ruin the anodized finish. I've left mine alone. I'm not sure if filing it will get you the results you're looking for. It'll get scuffed once you install a drop in trigger or a standard trigger.

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Thanks! I don't have access to bead blasting and it sounds very apartment unfriendly. I'll just install the kit and make sure everything works. I want a factory finish but I guess that's not really possible without having factory grade equiptment. I gotta say though, I'm really impressed this even worked with a router so I'm more that satisfied.

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[spyde12]

Thanks! I don't have access to bead blasting and it sounds very apartment unfriendly. I'll just install the kit and make sure everything works. I want a factory finish but I guess that's not really possible without having factory grade equiptment. I gotta say though, I'm really impressed this even worked with a router so I'm more that satisfied.

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Well, you got a great finish because you got the right tools to get the job done

... you're probably thinking about how to better prep the area for future 80's. I know I did and I ended up buying several more lowers smh

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