1911 build help.

[bzh362]

So I am considering embarking on a 1911 build based off of a Tactical Machining
80% frame. My goal is to be able to do the build without having to go in search of a mill...

My question is regarding the cutting of the barrel seat. From what I've read I'll be able to do it with a file and dremel but... I'm not exactly sure if the barrel is actually supposed to rest on the seat, or just hover a certain distance above it... It may seem like a stupid question to some, but I want to make 100% sure I'm doing the right thing when I start taking metal off.

Thanks for your help! Any pictures would be especially helpful.

[stphnman20]

Yes the barrel sits on the barrel seat when the slide goes/locks back.

[bzh362]

Thank you! And now I also know how I'm going to get my rails done a little easier. That's a nice build and a very complete thread you have there.

[stphnman20]

Thank you! And now I also know how I'm going to get my rails done a little easier. That's a nice build and a very complete thread you have there.

No problem. There are also other members did thier TM build without using a mill. Just surf the gunsmith forum.

[bzh362]

So after it unlocks, the barrel comes to rest on the recoil spring guide and barrel seat correct? Do the lugs also come to rest on the frame, or is there clearance there?

I'm planning on using the recoil spring guide as an approximate guide for the barrel seat radius.

Through all the posts I've been through, and all the diagrams I've seen, even the AGI videos I've watched, I still can't quite get that operation clear in my mind. It's never really stated outright.

Thanks again for the help.

[tr6guns]

Some people are just not mechanically inclined, just like common sense it can't be taught.. The ideal situation is that the standing lugs on the barrel and the rounded part of the barrel touch their related parts of the frame at the same time...

[bigcalidave]

The barrel seat just has to clear the radius of the barrel when the lug / ramp is locked back to the frame. If you can make it perfect, where the barrel is locked up AND resting on the seat, that would be nice. If the barrel hits the seat FIRST, and can't completely lock down, your feed ramp will probably be in the wrong place and you will probably snap your link quick.