TM 1911 trigger position

[ford63man]

I'm starting to put together my TM frame and I can't seem
to figure out what is going on. the slot in the frame doesn't appear
to be cut forward far enough. I don't own a 1911 and have never
assembled one before now.

Is the back of the trigger bow supposed to be flush?







I put this trigger into another TM frame and it does go farther forward.

[paperclip]

I don't know the answer to your question, but just wanted to say that the finish work on and around the trigger guard looks awesome.

[Nathan Krynn]

Parts on the 1911 pistol are fit to the frame, this is a good example. Each frame will be different and that is part of the fun. It also allows your firearm to be better that a off the shelf factory model, if you use good parts that is.

That area is as cast for the most part. We do some minor machining to clean up the casting but that's it. Frame to frame the width will vary and might require fitting of the trigger.

For instance on the picture below I have some points marked. One and Two might need to be filed (on the opposite sides as well). They may not need fitting, it will vary by frame and maybe only the top/bottom, or maybe only the sides. Also to fit and you might need to break the edge on number three to get it to fit correctly.

[ford63man]

I don't know the answer to your question, but just wanted to say that the finish work on and around the trigger guard looks awesome.

Thank you. I am quite pleased with the way it turned out

[ford63man]

Nathan, I have already fit the trigger. it is all the way in, with the front of the trigger bow up against the radiused end of the slot that is machined as In my picture. Am I correct thinking that the back of the trigger bow should be flush at the back?
maybe my trigger bow is not made to the proper length. do you have that dimension?

thank you for any info you might have.

[Nathan Krynn]

I do not have that dimension on hand at the moment, we do not make triggers, yet. However the center of the front trigger bow radius is supposed to be 2.17 from the center of the beavertail hole. Very hard to measure. Also that radius is .277.

However the bow does not have to be flush. I have seen a ton of them that are not. The important thing is that the manspring has tension and it should based on your pictures.

[ar15barrels]

Is the back of the trigger bow supposed to be flush?

No.
The trigger bow needs to bear against the flat spring.
If the bow was sitting flush, the spring could bear against the frame.

[hylander]

No.
The trigger bow needs to bear against the flat spring.
If the bow was sitting flush, the spring could bear against the frame.

^
Yours looks about correct.

[skyhanger00]

Different question, but one probably relevant to all 1911 home DIY smiths here trying to complete their paperweights.

I have it in almost functional shape, with all parts fitted, but I noticed that while I can manually cock the hammer easily, hand racking the slide does not cock the hammer.
It seems like the RIA firing pin stop does not extend down far enough to push the hammer back till cocks. Will this be an reliability issue?

I'm guessing that the force of recoil could knock the hammer into a cocking position, or will I need to buy a replacement firing pin stop and fit it so the slide will cock the hammer when I manually rack the slide?

[VaderSpade]

"I'm guessing that the force of recoil could knock the hammer into a cocking position"

OR the gun will go full auto. Be careful.

[Gem1950]

Parts on the 1911 pistol are fit to the frame, this is a good example. Each frame will be different and that is part of the fun. It also allows your firearm to be better that a off the shelf factory model, if you use good parts that is.

That area is as cast for the most part. We do some minor machining to clean up the casting but that's it. Frame to frame the width will vary and might require fitting of the trigger.

For instance on the picture below I have some points marked. One and Two might need to be filed (on the opposite sides as well). They may not need fitting, it will vary by frame and maybe only the top/bottom, or maybe only the sides. Also to fit and you might need to break the edge on number three to get it to fit correctly.

Agreed - That's usually the culprit. (the picture of the trigger is upside down - doesn't matter for the sake of discussion though)

[Nathan Krynn]

Agreed - That's usually the culprit. (the picture of the trigger is upside down - doesn't matter for the sake of discussion though)

LOL my marketing guy took the picture and did the arrows ETC. I just went with it.

Awesomeness you noticed.

[skyhanger00]

"I'm guessing that the force of recoil could knock the hammer into a cocking position"

OR the gun will go full auto. Be careful.

I did a quick check, and the hammer locks in the neutral position, so that's a relief. I'm looking online to figure out why the slide doesn't lock the hammer all the way back, but most of the "hammer follow" postings seem to discuss where the hammer will follow the slide all the way into battery (and not cock at all).

When I rack the slide back, it pushes the hammer back, but does not lock it. I reach my finger up and then pull the hammer down a microscopic amount, and then it locks.

Something tells me maybe some parts are a tiny bit out of spec. I'll go back and reexamine my parts.

[ar15barrels]

LOL my marketing guy took the picture

[VaderSpade]

That's funny stuff.