Bluing question

[bigj0hn]

Will the blasting be enough to remove all the old bluing or should I chemically take off as much first?

[yari]

Blasting will remove it.

[mrlonewolf]

Will the blasting be enough to remove all the old bluing or should I chemically take off as much first?

Vinegar is your best friend.

[kcstott]

Vinegar is your best friend.

That or blood. don't bleed on your guns it removes bluing faster then blasting.

[Whiterabbit]

I tried HCL and it's near instant removal of bluing.

For rust bluing, I just assumed no barrel plugging was needed, since you hand apply the chemical.

Then I saw ONE case on the internet (which is always right, right? right??) where the guy said you HAVE to plug the barrel for rust bluing.

really?

Do I really have to plug the barrel for rust bluing? if so, why? No chemical in the barrel, and I'm cleaning out the water anyways, so it shouldn't rust on me during the process (unless I'm an idiot and leave the water in there...)

[yari]

I haven't plugged the barrels when I've done it. Never saw any rusting in the barrel. They were Yugo non chromed barrels.

[deadshot]

Brownells Oxpho Blue

Brownells Oxpho Blue is the best solution on the market. If applied right it does a good job and will last. Preparation is the key and heat. It all depends on the the look you want. Removing the old finish and polishing the metal is key. It gives a uniform finish and can be touched up. I use a heat gun to warm up the metal and get really good results. It is basically rust bluing. The more you apply the deeper the blue.

[kcstott]

I've used oxpho blue too. But it is not "basically rust bluing". It's a chemical process that is no where near as tough as a rust brown or rust blue.

I've never had good luck with any cold blue no matter how well it was preped, heated cleaned what ever. It was always spotted and mismatched.

I'll pay the money for a good hot salts blue or do the rust blue my self. I'm done with cold blues for anything other then touch up.

[deadshot]

But it is not "basically rust bluing".

I might of over stated "basically rust bluing". You are correct in the fact that rust bluing is not the same. Rust bluing is really better to where the process penetrates deeper into the metal and does produce a longer lasting deeper finish. Cold bluing is really only for touch up but if you prepare the metal right you can get good results and a nice finish with less than half of the work and materials of rust bluing. Years ago I took a old rusted up Hawkens kit cleaned the metal up to white and cold blued it and to this day the finish still looks good after several black powder matches. Cold bluing if done right will turn out a nice even blue finish but not the deep black or the toughness that rust bluing will give.

[kcstott]

Well maybe thats the thing I'm looking for more of a blue black finish and have never been able to get but once after mixing the cold blue with corn starch to make it stick.
double cleaned the metal and tried heating it. I don't remember what I did but i finally got it right after about a dozen trys and two bottle of cold blue.

Oxpho blue is a stronger solution but I've still had issues with it. and i've never been able to reapply it over an existing coat to get it done.

[Whiterabbit]

OK, rather than start a new thread I am upping this one for context.

I have been recommended Mark's Express blue from Brownells. Ordered this morning. I will be rust bluing my safari rifle, right after I solder the open sights on it.

The barrel is a Pac-Nor fitted on an off-the-shelf CZ550 action, which means the action body is blue, the rear sight base is blue, and the barrel/banded front sight is not.

Is it generally recommended to remove the bluing on the action (and rear sight base) before rust bluing? I can sponge on some muriatic acid and take that off right quick.

I do not plan on rebluing the small parts or bottom metal at this time. If they seriously do not match, I can always rust blue them separately later.

Thanks guys.

[ifilef]

What would be the best value/remedy to the problem depicted in the photos below with a Ruger MKII? I've had firearm for more than 20 years and don't want to sell it or otherwise part with it-but looking at it really annoys me:

[ifilef]

Later: I just tried using Super Blue by BC-seems to have worked okay. Will post pic when I have the chance.

[Whiterabbit]

well, I'm not getting any input, so I'm punting.

Blue arrives Monday, spent today welding up a tank



may try to source a second frier for heat. But its just a boil tank, not a salts tank.

left the fins on the side intending to drill for 1/4-20 screws for a frame, but may not do that at all. No reason to complicate things unless needed.

[ifilef]

Used Super Blue by BC because that is all I had on hand:










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I actually feel happy about the job I did. It is not perfect, as slightly lighter than the rearmost part of left side of upper receiver. But the finish is surprisingly good and seems solid as if it will last.

Tomorrow I will likely apply a couple of more coats. I must've applied 10-15 coats already. After I had realized that I forgot to heat the metal first, it progressed faster and the blue took to the metal quicker. I used a hair dryer to heat the gun. Most of the time I let each coat cure for the recommended time of 30 seconds, but some were for a minute or even two minutes.

Acetone was used to degrease and brass wool was used to smooth out the finish as I could not locate my 0000 steel wool.