Rust, pitting, blueing, or duracoat.

[POLICESTATE]

I have a S&W Model 19, the case it was in got a crack in it while it was in storage and some moisture got in and well... the mildew was easy to clean off. There is some rust on parts of the cylinder and also on the barrel. It's on the outside, the bore is still perfect, and I've already cleaned off some of the light surface rust I found on other parts of the gun.

The deeper rust I've mostly cleaned off with a very fine steel wool, but I can see where there has been some pitting and it's down to the bare metal.

So I'm wondering if some polishing and then blueing would be better or if duracoating would be better instead.

I can't help but think that duracoat would make this fine little piece look like crap. But there is nobody around the San Jose area that does blueing from what I understand.

Then there's the cost of either solution. Does anyone know what I would be looking at? I suppose I could try restoring it myself but not sure how feasible that would be either.

[Gutz]

polish... Then blue it!!! How bad is the pitting?

[kcstott]

Hot flash finishing

[Gunsmith Dan]

There is only 2 sure fire ways to get rid of pits on the surface if draw filing is not a option (in your case you would not want to file the cylinder) that do not affect the firearm's operation ( if the pits are not to deep and you know a REALLY GOOD machinist they might be able to get rid of the pits on a lathe).

(1) Use copper plate to fill the pits, then polish and nickel or chrome plate the firearm.

(2) Fill the pits with silver solder or a high steel content epoxy and then Cerakote.

Anything else will either still show the pits close up or be too thick and/or wear out real fast.

[sarge1572]

Have you called Smith to see if they will/can refinish it? It's been several years, but they made a repair for me on a 586 and it came back like new.

As far as the rust, have you considered electrolysis? There are some good/easy how tos in calguns and youtube. The bluing is already shot... and, how bad is the pitting?

You're right. Painting a gun like that would be tough to do and would look, um, odd.

good luck

[tr6guns]

Dura coat makes a filler that works great, just spray on and sand down as many times as it takes to fill pits, then apply final finish. That way you will never have to worry about rust again

[davidb]

if you are paying for the refinish and not DIY then sandblast and get it cerakoted

its a much more durable finish than blueing and comes in tons of colors...duracoat isnt much better than krylon or your average house paint lol

[POLICESTATE]

The pitting is not that bad, it's fairly light, just down to the white. I'll get some pictures later, if the lighting isn't right it either looks "not that bad" or "omg it's ruined", neither of which are accurate.

I did most of the rust cleaning using steel wool and for some spots where there was pitting that was making it hard to get the wool in there well I used a dremel on low speed (omg he used a dremel wtf is he thinking?) and a brass brush attachment and very lightly hit those areas.

I like the hot flash finishing suggested by KCSTOTT. Considering I picked up this piece for next to nothing, paying $200 to have it polished and finished with a finish more closely to that of the original factory finish seems like a really good option.

The issue I have with duracoat is more looks, on a piece like this it makes it look more like a modern ruger revolver, or more like my Kimber's finish. Which I'm fine with on those guns, but on a classic model 19 I think it would detract from the piece itself.

I may just have to go look at some duracoat refinishing done on S&W revolvers and see what they actually look like up close.

[bruceflinch]

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=802040

My neighbor Duracoated this model 10 for me.I reblued w/ Brownells Oxpho Blue.
There was no pitting on this to begin with.

[POLICESTATE]

In the pics I can still see rust I don't see when I just look at it. My close range eye sight just aint what it used to be.

There are some scratches and other marks that were already on this revolver to begin with. Also I didn't own this piece when it was exposed. Right now it's being stored in an airtight container with lots of desiccant to prevent further damage while I sort out what exactly I am going to do with it.

[bruceflinch]

Your closeup pics are better than my closeup vision! Looks like the pitting on the frame by the trigger guard is the worst.

If this was my gun, I would bead blast it, then Oxpho Blue it. But then I'm cheap cheap!

[pigpen66m]

I believe Smith and Wesson charges $200 to refinish a revolver.

[Gunsmith Dan]

That is for just straight rebluing ...... rust work will cost more.

Blasting would take care of everything EXCEPT the area on the frame by the Crane. The good news it correct filing and sanding would be enough to contour the area because the metal is thick enough there.

[kkp]

There is only 2 sure fire ways to get rid of pits on the surface if draw filing is not a option (in your case you would not want to file the cylinder) that do not affect the firearm's operation ( if the pits are not to deep and you know a REALLY GOOD machinist they might be able to get rid of the pits on a lathe).

(1) Use copper plate to fill the pits, then polish and nickel or chrome plate the firearm.

(2) Fill the pits with silver solder or a high steel content epoxy and then Cerakote.

Anything else will either still show the pits close up or be too thick and/or wear out real fast.

Know anyone who does this (LA area ideally), and what they would charge to fill in some pits on a rusted .22lr barrel?