80% milling bits

[bollero]

Do they sell a SET of milling bits to mill out 80% on a mill?

The ones to mill out pocket..

anyone have a link to what u need?

[jfifer]

5/32 for trigger and hammer hole

[yari]

Try enco or msc.

[Intimid8tor]

They don't sell kits. You'll need an endmill or two and I use a mill drill for the trigger slot.

Actually, someone might sell a kit, but you might as well just order from enco or msc.

[G Wilikers]

Do they sell a SET of milling bits to mill out 80% on a mill?

The ones to mill out pocket..

anyone have a link to what u need?

Will u be using a dro or top plate guide? If dro, I have the enco or msc part numbers for the end mills I use. For trigger pins is 5/32 & safety is 3/8. I use a .630 em to hog out the main trigger pocket. Then use a 5/16 em for rear take down area & trigger slot. Then finish the main trigger pocket with a 3/8 em. From start to finish takes me 45 min. First one I DoD took3 hours.

Thx, G.

[bollero]

DRO

[bollero]

FredieUSA Which one do u use? link would be great? thanks

[Drew Eckhardt]

Do they sell a SET of milling bits to mill out 80% on a mill?

The ones to mill out pocket..

anyone have a link to what u need?

#1 center drill (spot all your holes). A #3 would work too if you don't drill down to the body.

hammer/trigger
#25 drill (.1495)
5/32" (.15625) chucking reamer (spec is .1560 + .0015 and a .156" gage must pass through both sides)
safety
1/4 drill (pilot, also used to start the fire control pocket roughing holes and start the trigger slot ends)
U drill (.368)
.376 chucking reamer (the spec is .376 +/- .001 and a .375" gage must pass through both sides)

The reamers run nicer (plunge faster, sound better) when you use the number/letter bits instead of the 64ths size one step smaller than the finished hole diameter.

Some people use drill bits in the nominal size for the pin holes although drill bits cut over-sized so I don't choose to do that.

Drills remove material fast and are inexpensive - you want to use them to remove the bulk of your material

Roughing fire control pocket
3/8" drill or use the U (rough out where the trigger tail meets the safety)
1/2" drill
I stop .010" off-the floor so the bottom looks nice.

Fire control pocket
7/16" x 1 3/8" flute length end-mill (fire control pocket is 1.249 + .010" deep. Erring too far on the short side will not allow the trigger to function). Center cutting. You can go faster if you start the perimeter cut with a shorter one. I like to plunge the waste between drill holes and corners a few thousandths in from the sides to 1.240" deep before running clockwise around the perimeter. Don't forget the trigger tail is .030" off-center to leave room for the safety detent (oops).

Trigger slot
5/16" end-mill. Needs 1.25" of reach to the bottom of the fire control pocket but not much in the way of flutes.

2 flutes are the right number.

Ray Brandes' guide is accurate in these areas, although you'd want to check where your pivot pin is instead of assuming 7.500" from the butt stock face.

http://www.lecreg.com/P4x4/ARblank.pdf

I also won't drill on another receiver mounted to an angle plate without additional solid supports like machinist's jacks.

[scoutpup99]

Tag

[AllynB]

+1 Great write up!

#1 center drill (spot all your holes). A #3 would work too if you don't drill down to the body.

hammer/trigger
#25 drill (.1495)
3/32" (.15625) chucking reamer (spec is .1560 + .0015 and a .156" gage must pass through both sides)
safety
1/4 drill (pilot, also used to start the fire control pocket roughing holes and start the trigger slot ends)
U drill (.368)
.376 chucking reamer (the spec is .376 +/- .001 and a .375" gage must pass through both sides)

The reamers run nicer (plunge faster, sound better) when you use the number/letter bits instead of the 64ths size one step smaller than the finished hole diameter.

Some people use drill bits in the nominal size for the pin holes although drill bits cut over-sized so I don't choose to do that.

Drills remove material fast and are inexpensive - you want to use them to remove the bulk of your material

Roughing fire control pocket
3/8" drill or use the U (rough out where the trigger tail meets the safety)
1/2" drill
I stop .010" off-the floor so the bottom looks nice.

Fire control pocket
7/16" x 1 3/8" flute length end-mill (fire control pocket is 1.249 + .010" deep. Erring too far on the short side will not allow the trigger to function). Center cutting. You can go faster if you start the perimeter cut with a shorter one. I like to plunge the waste between drill holes and corners a few thousandths in from the sides to 1.240" deep before running clockwise around the perimeter. Don't forget the trigger tail is .030" off-center to leave room for the safety detent (oops).

Trigger slot
5/16" end-mill. Needs 1.25" of reach to the bottom of the fire control pocket but not much in the way of flutes.

2 flutes are the right number.

Ray Brandes' guide is accurate in these areas, although you'd want to check where your pivot pin is instead of assuming 7.500" from the butt stock face.

http://www.lecreg.com/P4x4/ARblank.pdf

I also won't drill on another receiver mounted to an angle plate without additional solid supports like machinist's jacks.

[bollero]

thanks

[T.Yoon]

http://www.desertwarriorproducts.com/Juggernaut_Lowers.html

They sell a kit, JUG-1598 for 99.95.

[Drew Eckhardt]

http://www.desertwarriorproducts.com...ut_Lowers.html

They sell a kit, JUG-1598 for 99.95.

While fine (albeit expensive - you don't need cobalt drills for aluminum, you'll spend a lot less at http://www.use-enco.com, and with a warehouse in Nevada standard shipping usually results in next day delivery to the SF Bay Area) for drill press use that's not what you want for a manual mill.

When cutting the fire control pocket and navigating with hand wheels (a DRO isn't needed) you need a 7/16" end-mill to leave the .218" radius called for by the drawings not the 3/8" paired with a drill jig like a pattern router bit.

Your fire control holes will also fit better when reamed.

Conversely the right tools to use with a mill aren't going to be the best fit for a jig on a drill press. While drill bit size doesn't effect getting to the right locations on a mill (you set X/Y zero at the pivot pin center using a center finder, edge finding when your jig has the relevant locating dowel a known distance in, etc. and just use the wheels to get to the hole locations) with the drill press setup you want a good fit in the jig holes (which should ideally be drill bushings).