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[meeestirg]

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[uxo2]

If you don't have the tools or know how.

Snap caps to dry fire.

Do you want a great trigger with reliable ignition.
Gunsmith.

If your intent on doing it.
Rebound spring only.
With JB bore paste n internals.

[c good]

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/262030/gun-video-trigger-job-complete-action-tuning-for-smith-and-wesson-revolvers-with-jerry-miculek-dvd

Best money you will spend if you want to play with your S&W's internals. I like the 13 lb rebound spring. Stock hammer/main spring. Polish internals as per DVD.

[Trapper]

Smoothing up the trigger on a S&W revolver is a fairly simple project with the right tools and some gun smithing experience. Replacing the rebound spring with a 13# or 14# will reduce the double action trigger pull but does nothing to smooth out the trigger pull. As others have said replacing the hammer spring with a lighter weight can decrease reliability and result in light strikes with harder primers.
Your best option is to find a reliable gunsmith and spend the $100-$150 for a good trigger job. IMHO this is a reasonable price to have a safe & reliable revolver that will last a lifetime.

[glockman19]

Really...Snap caps and dry fires is all you need. My triggers are smooth as butter with a crisp release. My 686 too 1200-1500 pulls of the trigger, The 442/642 are at 2500 each and are just now feeling good...it only gets better with time.

[Dutch Henry]

First, have a good mechanical aptitude. Second, get the book "The S&W Revolver: A shop manual", by Jerry Kuhnhausen. It's $25 well spent.
Go to http://www.gunbooks.com/sw.html

After reading the book, you should have a pretty good understanding of the revolver's workings. If you have difficulty, then pay a gunsmith to do the work for you.

In my experience, the S&W has about the best out of the box trigger of any revolver and they get better with time. Before you decide to change out springs on a new revolver, I would suggest putting about 500 rounds through it first.

[uxo2]

First, have a good mechanical aptitude. Second, get the book "The S&W Revolver: A shop manual", by Jerry Kuhnhausen. It's $25 well spent.
Go to http://www.gunbooks.com/sw.html

.

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/solvents-degreasers/bore-cleaning-paste/j-b-reg-non-embedding-bore-cleaning-compound-prod1160.aspx

and

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/262...ry-miculek-dvd

Best money you will spend if you want to play with your S&W's internals. I like the 13 lb rebound spring. Stock hammer/main spring. Polish internals as per DVD.

[dfletcher]

my friend says he can help me with the install.

what does the rebound spring do? how does it affect my trigger? which one would i need?

Regarding the 686, you can buy a Wolff "ribbed" mainspring with 3 separate trigger rebound springs - IIRC they're 12, 13 and 15 lb returns. If your friend knows how the switch out is easy. N, L and K frame sets are the same IIRC. Trigger rebound springs are also sold separately.

Getting a "Trigger Rebound Spring Tool" is not such a bad idea, they're cheap. I've been fiddling with S & W revolvers for 40 years & developed a creative swearing vocabulary by not using one for so long.

The trigger return spring is located in the trigger rebound housing unit and provides the power for trigger reset. The stronger the trigger spring the sharper the return, in general. Generally, on a Smith revolver with nothing else done to it & full power mainspring I think a 12 lb return spring is about the lightest that will give you a complete, positive reset. Maybe others have a different experience.

The hammer and rebound unit interact - you'll see a mutual meeting "hump" at the bottom of the hammer foot/top of the rebound unit. When returning, the rebound unit cams the hammer up and is a sort of safety. So a heavy mainspring and a light trigger rebound spring can cause a sluggish trigger reset during this interaction. A lighter mainspring and strong trigger rebound spring will result in a snappier trigger reset.

Much work can be done polishing surfaces and getting springs set just right. I suppose it's almost as much art as tech work.

Regarding the J frame, it uses a coil and I'd presume Wolff sells trigger packs for them also. I've found J frames to be more sensitive to reduced power springs and generally leave them alone. If you want to experiment the same approach used for the larger frames will work with the 442.