80% AR build excitement

[BG-NUtZ]

OK...so I got a bunch of stuff in the mail from various places like Gun broker, eBay, Amazon and Craigslist. My lower is an 80% and I need to have it if finished and engraved and then anodized. This is my first AR adventure, so many of my concerns are technical. Should I get the lower engraved, anodized or completed first? Which is the easiest to do? And which order would yield the best results?

Thus far, I have in my possession, the lower, the stock, the pistol grip, and the hand guard. My concept for this build is simple. I want to do a black and ODgreen carbine. Nothing too fancy...

Not sure about all of the details just yet.
I have shot the Smith and Wesson M&P 15 and absolutely loved the feel and pull of the trigger mechanism. Which manufacturer would be the best trigger kit for a home build? They are many choices out there and very different prices for the kits? Are all of the kits equal in quality? What should I look for in picking a kit (trigger kit, don't need grip)

What other details do I need to consider when it comes to a good home build? Thanks for your help...

[Jason25]

Get the lower milled first that way its anodized in the inside of the pocket. It's not necessary but since you have the option that's what I would do. Depends what kind of look you want for the engraving/anodizing. I anodized then laser engraved. It stands out more. But to each his own. I ran the RRA lower parts kit. CMMG is another good one. There's plenty in the marketplace. Your lpk's (lower parts kit, everything you will need), are gonna come with a grip so you will have an extra. Another good preventive measure would be a KNS trigger/hammer pin kit (Brownells had them in stock recently) Not a necessity but a good option.

BCM buffer assembly
BCM pistol grip
RRA LPK
KNS hammer/trigger pin kit
Troy trigger guard
Magpul bad lever
Magpul CTR

[Zenith]

The order (that I would do) to finish the lower:

1. Engrave it (I always do this before anodizing because it looks better)
2. Mill it (find a build party or local machinest)
3. Anodize it (providing that you can find an anodizer who is able to complete the process while you are there, or find an anodizer who has an FFL and leave your lower with them until it's finished)

or

1. Engrave it
2. Anodize it (easier to drop off the lower at any anodizer because it is an 80% paper-weight, that is, not "finished")
3. Mill it

I always try to anodize after I complete the lower, because this gives the milled areas slightly more strength and build-up so that there aren't any loose fittings. And let's not forget that the lower would certainly look better, but it's a rather moot point because it's an area that's "under-the-hood".
Honestly, from what I have experienced, not all LPK's are guaranteed to have the same 'feel'. Take for instance that I bought two LPK's from PSA (Palmetto State Armory); one of the LPK's trigger broke very crisply, while the other was smooth but broke -- from what I can describe -- in incremental stages. Does this even make sense?! But don't let this discourage you.. I'm simply stating what I have experienced myself. I don't expect much from mil-spec triggers from 'standard' LPK's anyway.. If I wanted a great trigger, I would get a drop-in assembly
So in my opinion, getting a 'quality' run-of-the-mill LPK is almost a shot in the dark because they are so alike yet they are also slightly different in terms of feel, fit, and finish (although this goes for anything). Nevertheless, you may have a better chance with buying one of those drop-in-replacement trigger assemblies such as Geissele or Timney. I hope this helps and good luck on your endeavors!

-Jarred

[jfifer]

Any company can engrave it before you mill it.

If you mill first, only ffl holders or local companies can engrave.

[dammitmanny]

Congrats on your 80%!

I am in the middle of my build right now too. I got it engraved, then milled, than Cerakoted/Micro Slicked. I prefer engraving first, so that way the engraver does not need to be a FFL. Then of course milling followed by coating.

If you live somewhere in SoCal, check out my AR build thread, where I am chronicling the steps I'm taking. I also have links for my engraver, mill shop, and Cerakoter.

Here is a link to my build.

As for your LPK; Rock River Arms (RRA), CMMG, PSA, and a few others make good quality stuff. I ended up buying a RRA LPK that came without a fire control group (FCG) for about $80. So I also bought a Spikes Tactical Battle Trigger which was Nickel Boron Coated (NiB) for like $70. This was all about a month ago, so it was about $150 for a RRA LPK w/ a NiB trigger, which to me was awesome. But as long as you stick to a good brand, your LPK will be good to go. You can always get a drop in trigger like Zenith said.

Good luck!

[BG-NUtZ]

Dammitmanny...lo....your art work is cool...I like it...adds much character to your build...who did the engraving and how was the concept transferred from idea to final engraving?

Thanks to all of you for the input...it is much appreciated....

[dammitmanny]

SpadeVader did my engraving. Shipped out my lower on a Monday and received it 8 days later. Quick turnaround and awesome work. However, he is not an FFL and it needs to be in a 80% form.

All I did was find what pictures I wanted and sent it to him and he came back to me with some of the concept designs.

Check him out on his thread or his website.

[BG-NUtZ]

Okay...back to my build...after a few emails to Love to build, I set up an appointment to have my 80% turned into a 99.99999%. Met a cool group of guys at this particular build party. Keep in mind that this is my first build and I was a bit anxious about being there. I immediately was made to feel comfortable and re-assured that all was on the up and up. Everyone there was friendly and yielded tons of contact info regarding parts, suppliers, law info, etc.
The process was super easy and to me, completely worth the money. So here is what I have so far...look at the pics...decided that my first AR build would be a PISTOL...perhaps a .300 caliber...