help refinishing a stock

[russt]

i have a very light colored high gloss finish stock on my m1 carbine and would like to know what finish to use to make it look more like this...

[NewbieDave]

Looks lioke a Cherry Mahogany or Red Chestnut to me... if your stock is glossy... make sure you strip it down to bear wood before staining

dpc

[briancbk]

stock color change

http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=460

If you have ever seen the ads for contractors that reface or refinish kitchen cabinets, these are the products that they use for color changes. browse around and download some of their training, and look on youtube for video training. you can sand the stock down just a little to rough up the surface, and then put a few coats of these transparent tinted lacquers over the top to adjust the final color without having to strip and refinish. dont mess with the stuff at home depot like minwax etc. these products are what the pros use, and will give you really good results and will last a long time.

[Colt562]

Looks lioke a Cherry Mahogany or Red Chestnut to me... if your stock is glossy... make sure you strip it down to bear wood before staining

dpc

this....

1. Strip with Citristrip (Get at home depot)
2. Let it airdry for 12-24 hours
3. 100 Grit Sand Paper (also can steam out any "dents" in the wood)
4.220 Grit sand paper
5. Pre-stain
6. Stain
7. Poly
8. Sand Poly with 0000 steel wool


There is a really good follow guide at the top of this thread.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=321453

http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/cata...asp?ictNbr=460

If you have ever seen the ads for contractors that reface or refinish kitchen cabinets, these are the products that they use for color changes. browse around and download some of their training, and look on youtube for video training. you can sand the stock down just a little to rough up the surface, and then put a few coats of these transparent tinted lacquers over the top to adjust the final color without having to strip and refinish. dont mess with the stuff at home depot like minwax etc. these products are what the pros use, and will give you really good results and will last a long time.

Minwax works perfectly fine. Also its not just sand it and then stain it...there are more steps to the process as stated above.

[Dan FS71]

Rite or the like dye. make sure you perfect your technique before you try on the real thing.

[valley82]

4. Not 100 grit... Use 320 or 400 grit
5. Watsco Danish oil keep wet for 30-45minutes (color of your choice) probably red mahogany
6. Wipe down with cotton cloth
7. Let dry and repeat steps 5&6 (I use 4 coats) stock will be water proof and no poly to chip or turn white if you get it wet plus it makes the wood harder.
These two were done with watsco golden oak

[russt]

thank you calguns! i think im going to give this a try. i will probably try it on an old ruger 10/22 stock first just for practice. what about boiled linseed oil or tung oil after the stain? i dont want any real shine or gloss.

[Colt562]

thank you calguns! i think im going to give this a try. i will probably try it on an old ruger 10/22 stock first just for practice. what about boiled linseed oil or tung oil after the stain? i dont want any real shine or gloss.

If you dont want a real shine or gloss. Just get yourself some 0000 steel wool. Its like 2 or 3 dollars at HD and lightly "sand" it with that.

[ColdDeadHands1]

Follow this thread!

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=296275

[hellayella]

this....

1. Strip with Citristrip (Get at home depot)
2. Let it airdry for 12-24 hours
3. 220 Grit Sand Paper (also can steam out any "dents" in the wood)
4. 100 Grit sand paper
5. Pre-stain
6. Stain
7. Poly
8. Sand Poly with 0000 steel wool


There is a really good follow guide at the top of this thread.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=321453

Minwax works perfectly fine. Also its not just sand it and then stain it...there are more steps to the process as stated above.

as what he said...



Also, uf ur in SO CAL..we can meet up and I have all the refinishing supplies...u can meet me up and just use and return the rest to me;;

I have:

The Milk Paint Co 100% Tung Oil
80 grit/220 grit sandpaper
shop towels
howard's feed and wax
0000 steel wool

[hellayella]

if u have any small dents, u can wet two cotton towels and place over then dent and have an iron steam over the towels (wuth ur dented area) until it comes out

[E-120]

Its fairly. Straight forward to do on your own.

[MaHoTex]

as what he said...

Except not in that order.

100 grit first.. work your way to smaller and smaller.

I polish with steel wool between coats too.

[Colt562]

Except not in that order.

100 grit first.. work your way to smaller and smaller.

I polish with steel wool between coats too.

That was a typo....oops. I start with 100 and then go to 150 and then 220 and then 330,

[MaHoTex]

That was a typo....oops. I start with 100 and then go to 150 and then 220 and then 330,

No problem. Based upon what you wrote you obviously know what you are talking about. I just didn't want someone who may not know better to finish a stock down to 400 grit and then try to get that last final high gloss polish with 100 grit.