TIG weld? How much does it cost?

[vinny_land]

I already did some reading from different ak build websites and also utilized the search function on this website. I have considered a screw build because I dont have access to a press to take the barrel out of the trunion and after reading one some info, TIG welding is considered the strongest??? Someone please correct me if i am wrong. Well if TIG welding instead of screw build or rivet is the strongest, how much on average does it cost to have that procedure done? A rough estimate can be useful.

Thank you,
-Vincent

[JPglee1]

I would TIG your receiver for about $80 if you brought it to me.

I would MIG weld it for about $40-50...and Id feel better about the weld with the MIG too, it imparts less heat soak for a smaller HAZ (heat affected zone) so your chances of embrittlement or other issues with the metallurgy are reduced.

My 9mm Carbine is 100% MIG welded and its held up beautifully. I have MIG welded other guns for members here (ONLY WITH THEM PRESENT< I DO NOT DO MAIL ORDER) and they havent failed.

Its your choice but you'll pay more for TIG. A proper MIG weld will be invisible if performed and dressed correctly.

I promise a 70 series (meaning 70,000 PSI Tensile Strength) wire like ER70S2 or similar MIG wire will be many times stronger than a screw when in shear, where it matters on an AK....


YMMV.


Jay

[vinny_land]

You're about 2 hours and 20 minutes away from Bakersfield.

[JPglee1]

You're about 2 hours and 20 minutes away from Bakersfield.

Well I appreciate the sentiment, it was more a quote than a proposition, altho I would gladly do it for you if you want.

I try not to "spam" myself too hard on here, Im sure most people know I do the weld thing

Good luck in your endeavor.

J

[vinny_land]

i'll keep you in mind when i have completed my build.

thank you!!

[bridgeport]

Interesting, less heat with mig than Heliarc. Whats your setup?

[JPglee1]

Interesting, less heat with mig than Heliarc. Whats your setup?

Yeah, the heat is "instant-on" with a MIG where a TIG requires pre-heat like an oxy-acetylene torch setup.

Essentially TIG is just an electrified oxy-acetylene torch....you vary the pedal position to control heat instead of pulling the torch in and out like w/OxyAcetylene... Other than that, its almost identical technique and filler wires. The big advantage to a TIG is not really on STEEL, its on ALUMINUM where the AC cycle provides cleaning action on each reverse of the cycle... BUT you CAN weld aluminum, 4130, etc with a torch.

Anyway, my setup is either a Powcon SM200 MIG/SMAW a Miller NT225 SMAW or a Lincoln SP170 MIG.... I also have access to a Miller TIG machine at my boss's shop...

Anyway, theres a reason you dont see body shops using TIG to weld in filler panels...MORE distortion than MIG.

It all boils down to what the weldor is comfortable running and what the exact application is.

J

[Builder]

...and Id feel better about the weld with the MIG too, it imparts less heat soak for a smaller HAZ (heat affected zone) so your chances of embrittlement or other issues with the metallurgy are reduced.

This is TIG welded. The heat affected zone is quite small and there is no splatter. In addition, the gas run-on after the weld has stopped, cools the weld without atmospheric gases contaminating the weld. You like?

I promise a 70 series (meaning 70,000 PSI Tensile Strength) wire like ER70S2 or similar MIG wire will be many times stronger than a screw when in shear, where it matters on an AK....
Jay

JP describes exactly the reason to weld. Stronger than rivets, weld is as strong as the base steel receiver & trunion, it can be dressed to disappear, no removal of barrel, and it is faster.
Vincent, please go see JP or get a gun friendly local welder to get your NDS receiver welded. You won't be sorry.
Typically "preheating is generally not necessary for mild steels less than one inch thick, but low alloy steels may require preheating to slow the cooling process and prevent the formation of martensite in the heat-affected zone." The picture above was not preheated and shows minimal martensite and no distortion.
Thanks,
Builder

[bridgeport]

What type of wire, amps,and feed do you run ? I'm not asking to tweak you... just that I am used to heliarc and find the mig needs to be dialed in just right because of its speed... in fact that is when and why I use mig, when I need to run long strings quickly the mig is the way to go , maybe I just need to try it. With my Tig though I can execute welds with extreme pinpoint precision
such as that none or an extemely small amount of finish work is required prior to sand blast and paint. I like to leave the welds in an as is state if possible
kind of like on original Hk stuff. I have just never been able to get a mig to lay in with such precision although I certainly dont doubt that an accomplished mechanic could do it under the right circumstances.

[vinny_land]

This is TIG welded.

JP describes exactly the reason to weld. Stronger than rivets, weld is as strong as the base steel receiver & trunion, it can be dressed to disappear, no removal of barrel, and it is faster.
Vincent, please go see JP or get a gun friendly local welder to get your NDS receiver welded. You won't be sorry.
Thanks,
Builder

Builder,

Thanks for the post and damn those welds look great. Thats what i plan to do. Make my AK a screw build and then try it out to make sure it works properly (no FTF or FTE). Once i have everything A-Okay, i'll use the screws to hold the front trunion in place as it is getting welded. I'll then have it dressed smooth and put a finish on it. I'll probably get in touch with JP when im finished or find a trusted welder who is willing to work on firearms in their shop.

[hawk81]

Tig weld is the way to go. It's easier to control. It won't affect the heat treat on the reciever if you know what your doing.