80% anodized vs. non anodized

[XXX]

I have searched a few websites but can only find scattered info. Can some give me all the pro and cons. thanks.

[jrock]

Start with ano, end up with bare finished engraving/cnc'd pockets.
Start with non ano, engrave cnc etc then if ano after, all will be same color.

[nothinghere2c]

get ano if you have no intentions of engraving or serializing etc
its a simple cut, then put together your lego set.

if you finish the ano'd lower and you want it engraved you'll have to find a place that will engrave it while you wait since its now a firearm. (or find someone with the proper FFL license who will engrave a non-serialized firearm)

otherwise, get the ano, get it engraved first, then finish it.


get a non-anodized lower if you want to do everything yourself or duracoat it etc

[XXX]

I thought I read somewhere that the non-anodized areas, if unfinished, will get corrosion. Also, does one have to serialize the lower or put the city and state of manufacture?

[FORD4LIFE]

I thought I read somewhere that the non-anodized areas, if unfinished, will get corrosion. Also, does one have to serialize the lower or put the city and state of manufacture?

It will be fine unless you plan on leaving your at in the ocean

And no you do not have too

Check out aresarmor.com for further info

[XXX]

thanks for the Aresarmor link ford4life.

[yari]

If you want a quality build non ano, then get it done. If you don't give a f**k get anod. The 80s ares sells are type 2 not type 3 anyways. That's a quote from their anodizer.

[IrishJoe3]

If you want a quality build non ano, then get it done. If you don't give a f**k get anod. The 80s ares sells are type 2 not type 3 anyways. That's a quote from their anodizer.

Uh, you sure?

These are anodized with a mil-spec type III hard coat anodizing.

http://aresarmor.com/store/Item/TACMHL15

[deanja8]

What's the difference between type 2 and type 3?

[kantstudien]

Type II is a surface coating that is easily scratched off, Type III anodize penetrates into the metal and then builds on the surface making it more resistant to scratching, corrosion, etc.

Type III can only be had in matte colors, but type II can be bright if the aluminum is polished beforehand.

[Rusty Scabbard]

Type II is readily dyed. Fancy colored aluminum fishing reels, and countless other bright aluminum parts you'll see are type II. Type II is a good finish. It's much harder than the aluminum base metal, and a pretty good barrier for corrosion and wear. Type II that can be done in a home shop with a bit of preparation and research. Check out some of Vaderspade's posted projects.
Type III is tougher than type II, and the hardest conventional finish put on aluminum. It does not take up color dyes well, and it's a dull finish. Parts will be matte grey or dyed dark colors. Type III is difficult for a hobbyist to set up and do at home.

[WDE91]

I went with a bare 80%er
its ends up being more expensive than an ano lower but its 100% anodized

[Gunsmith Dan]

On Aluminum the biggest worry for a unfinished receiver is not corrosion (since Aluminum almost instantly oxidies when in contact with air) but getting badly scratched and/or shiny spots and premature wear in certain areas.

The 2 best coatings would be Anodizing Type III or Cerakote for both wear protection and corrosion protection. Ceraote would be better just because you can protect the plastic and steel parts as well and they would all be the same color.

[neubine]

I have a question, I'm about to mill out my 80% and was wondering if I needed it to be bead blasted and anodized before cerakoting, or can I just have it bead blasted and cerakoted without the anodizing.

[AVID HUNTER]

If you already have anodized type 2 lowers, can you anodize them again in type 3?