S&W trigger job

[liketoshoot]

OK I did the search and did not find the answer to this question.
How hard is it to work on the action of the new S&W's. I have very limited experience doing this and don't want to screw it up.
I'm trying to smooth it out and lighten the trigger pull a little, the gun has app. 250 rounds thru it. Should I just dry fire for a while (I use snap caps) or try to work on it?
Thanks in advance.

Oh this is not for ccw use.

[Pulsar]

If your talking about the M&P pistols, not much can be done. You might be able to lighten it a bit, but it comes at a risk of misfires. And you can't really do anything for the creep. It's got the same trigger system as the old Sigma pistols, and there is plenty of info on that system floating around the net if your interested.

[Franksremote]

I've done a couple, they're not really difficult, just time consuming. Dan Burwell does great work on them as well as a few others who specialize in the M&Ps. Pretty reasonable price wise too. Can get 'em down to a 2 lb trigger, much less creep, shorter reset and all using stock parts with no reports of misfires so far. Don't give up, a lot of companies are now releasing parts/components for using the M&P in USPSA Production and Limited class.

[liketoshoot]

My bad this is for my wheel guns that I feel are a little to heavy, specifically my 686/6" the 7 shot in .357.
Also is there a good gunsmith in the LA area, someone that is resonable in price.
Again thanks.

[tankerman]

Changing out springs will lighten the pull, you can also carefully cut one coil off at a time untill you acheive the desired result. (unless one is a flat spring).

That will not affect the less than smooth actions S&W are known for. I have slicked up a few S&W's and a Colt Trooper. I suggest you do some reading if you are interested in completing the task yourself. It is not difficult, but if you do make a mistake or two you could damage some internal parts and have to replace them.

[liketoshoot]

Changing out springs will lighten the pull, you can also carefully cut one coil off at a time untill you acheive the desired result. (unless one is a flat spring).

That will not affect the less than smooth actions S&W are known for. I have slicked up a few S&W's and a Colt Trooper. I suggest you do some reading if you are interested in completing the task yourself. It is not difficult, but if you do make a mistake or two you could damage some internal parts and have to replace them.

Thanks, that is my concern, I don't want to damage it. Maybe I'll just let a gunsmith do it and not worry about it. I'd rather pay to have it done right then to have to pay to have it fixed after I screw something up.

[eaglemike]

Most of the 686 plus respond well to some spring tension reduction. You can also adjust the tension on the mainspring easily yourself. The mainspring strain screw is in the lower front of the grip frame. If you have (or have a friend with) a whitney punch kit, make a few small shims to go under the head of the screw. It's better if the hole in the shim has to be screwed over the threads of the screw. It's a little trickey because the screw is 8-32 and the head isn't a lot bigger. Anyway, you'll want to shim about .040 or so. This will still set off factory ammo. It's like the old trick of grinding the end of the strain screw, except it's adjustable with shims. Replacing the rebound spring with an 11lb or 12 lb spring will help, or cut a couple of coils off the stocker. Go a little at a time. You can buy a rebound spring tool from Brownell's, so you don't lose your religion playing with that. The first time it'll take a few hours, after that less than 1 hour. Wolff also has spring kits. A good gauge for proper main spring tension is this test: Use the RCBS spring type trigger pull gauge. One end goes about where the hammer strikes the firing pin. 2 3/4 to 3 lbs is enough to set off pretty much everything is the primers are seated properly. 2 1/2 will set off properly seated Federal primers. You need to learn the trick/angle on how to hold the hook for the gauge in the right place on the hammer, or make a stirrup.

Edit: I'm going by memory on the .04", I'm confident on the pressure numbers.

At some point you could convert the gun to use moonclips. It would still use loose rounds or speedloaders, too.

all the best,

Mike

[r08ert209cali]

just send them back to the factory. they know the guns real good and only charge about 65 a piece check the s&w website

[Pulsar]

Action jobs are nice and easy on S&W's, polish up all contact surfaces with stones, and do some of the aformentioned spring adjustments. I'm not a fan of clipping springs, I prefer to spin springs on the belt sander to reduce tension. I really haven't found a limit to how low I can get the double action pull, my limiting factor is the single action pull, getting the double action pull down to around 5-7lbs results in an ounce weight single action trigger pull, which is rather dangerous on a pistol.

[saki302]

If you don't mind the drive to LA city, pick up a Wolff reduced power 'power rib' spring kit first.

Drive down here, and I'll stone a few sliding surfaces and put the kit in for you for free

I've done somewhere around 15-20 S&W revolvers, mostly for friends, and always while they wait
(and I reassembled another member's .500S&W he took apart for refinishing)
Takes about 30-40 minutes, and I have the right tools. If you do it yourself, make SURE you have a hollow-ground gunsmith screwdriver set, or you will bugger up the screws (my buddy found out the hard way- good thing Numrich sells new screws!).

-Dave