Problem: RRA 2 stage NM trigger (no 2nd stage, no hammer release)!!

[Pointcrossed]

I recently purchased a RRA 2 stage NM trigger and went to install it today into my RRA lower receiver. I read the instructions over once before installing it. In the installation instructions, in step 7 is where I encounter the problem. It states to thumb the hammer and pull the trigger releasing the hammer about 10 to 20 times. No matter what I do I pull the trigger and it stops like the safety is on. I installed it according to the instructions even had a fellow AR owner buddy of mine that has the same trigger group verify the install.

After he could not figure it out, he took apart his AR to look and make sure that the trigger installation matches his. The installation does match, but the hammers look slightly different. His was a drop in that worked right away. These triggers are both RRA 2 stage triggers but his is a few years older. I called RRA today and I am sending it back for repair or replacement. It will be a 4 week turnaround. Because of this I will have to buy another trigger for my CMP match. [V]

Did RRA change their hammer design?
Did I just come up unlucky and get a bum trigger?
Has anyone else had the same issue? If so how was it resolved?

[ocabj]

Where did you buy it from? I'd just send it back to the vendor instead of RRA. I know for a fact Brownells will do exchanges straight up if there is a problem (had to do it a few months ago with an AR-15 rear sight base - match rifle - that had improperly drilled holes for the rear sight - Brownells exchanged it and even refunded my return shipping).

[Pointcrossed]

Got it from Coleman Tyler; really good mail order BTW. They told me to send it to RRA directly.

[dachan]

I've done a few RRA NM triggers into Fulton (308) lowers and DPMS LPKs where the cut in the safety was a little too narrow for the trigger to move, or the cut was a little off center. Taking a little of the left inside side of the cut in the safety was all it took to remedy the situation.

[ocabj]

Got it from Coleman Tyler; really good mail order BTW. They told me to send it to RRA directly.

No shot at that vendor, but a good vendor would have given you the option to exchange direct with them, assuming it's within a respectable time frame (within 30 days of receipt product, etc).

[Pointcrossed]

No shot at that vendor, but a good vendor would have given you the option to exchange direct with them, assuming it's within a respectable time frame (within 30 days of receipt product, etc).

You got a point there, I just got it on saturday 1/19; the vendor should help me out.

I also don't think the safety is the issue; the sides of the safety don't touch the trigger when its off; when it safety is on the trigger travel is limited to maybe a mm or less.

[blacklisted]

I had this problem with an LMT 2-stage trigger. I ended up filing the flat on the selector to fix it. The problem was that the hammer was stuck just a few thousandths from releasing because the rear was touching the selector when it pivoted. I don't know if it was tolerance stacking or if one part was out of spec.

The LMT trigger that I have is a real POS, and I'll probably send it back one of these days (if it hasn't been too long).

Take your selector out and try it. If it works, try it with your buddy's selector.

[Pointcrossed]

Yes it is definitely the trigger; I was also told that I should not file any of the parts. I am not a gunsmith and this rifle design has been around for 40+ years, I think they should be able to figure out how to refine the quality of a trigger by now so if they claim it is a drop in trigger as stated, then I should be able to install it and it should work. All I can figure is the trigger is probably not in spec with the selector. Any modification may have an adverse effect such as a mag dump and that would be embarrassing.

[sergeantrex]

I've done a few RRA NM triggers into Fulton (308) lowers and DPMS LPKs where the cut in the safety was a little too narrow for the trigger to move, or the cut was a little off center. Taking a little of the left inside side of the cut in the safety was all it took to remedy the situation.

Had the same problem with RRA 2 stage. Fixed it the same way no problems here, works fine now.

[chuck762]

It may be a 40 + year old design but with lots of different places producing parts both in and out of spec sometimes it takes some hand fitting to get everything working correctly. Trigger could be the problem or maybe the hammer and or trigger pin locations are off a couple of thousandths. Sometimes the tolerances stack up in the the wrong direction where a part doesn't quite fit together even though separately they are in spec. Factories have the option of grabbing another batch of parts should everything not drop in correctly. Most gun owners don't have the luxury of spare parts laying around to try out.

You can either send the trigger back or try and see what is stopping it from working correctly. You don't sound comfortable with doing any fitting yourself so see if someone local can take a look at it. A OLL friendly shop or calguns member. It may be something as small as a couple of file strokes to cure.

I had a RRA 2 stage trigger become a crappy single stage in less than 500 rounds. After finding the problem and a little file work it now works as it should.

[Pointcrossed]

If you spend $120 on a DVD player for example do you have to file down any parts for it to work? a couple of pieces of forged metal and springs, it should work without filing anything .

I already sent the trigger to RRA and it will take 4 weeks before I hear anything. I have already told RRA how I feel about this, and they really don't care. I am getting a different brand 2 stage trigger and will keep this one for my next build.

[kantstudien]

I have seen this once before with RRA two-stage triggers. The hammer simply would not release due to tolerance stacking.

[chuck762]

Every mechanical parts has tolerances. A part can be plus or minus xxx amount in size and or location. Once in a while some tolerances stack up and parts won't fit. If a pin is at the large end of the tolerance and the hole it has to pass trough is at it's smallest allowable size the pin may not fit correctly.
You can either try different parts or move on to fitting them.
Most factory car parts bolt on because they have fairly loose tolerances.
Gun parts hold much tighter tolerances and it happens more often with parts not being drop in even though sold as they are. Then you run into the problem of really out of spec parts being sold by companies. Some AR lower parts kits are so far out of spec no amount of fitting will get it all working correctly. Receivers have the same issue since everyone and their brother is now making them.

Comparing a dvd player to a firearm is apples to oranges.If you opened up that dvd player and tried to put new or different parts in it then you might have to do some fitting. Your factory trigger worked fine from the factory correct? So does that dvd player. You didn't have any issues until you wanted to change something.

Even a $280 fully adjustable Geissele 2 stage trigger can require work to install. Some selectors are too narrow and bind against the trigger and won't allow it to fire. The choice is to try different selectors until you get one that works or to fit the selector to the trigger.