Mauser (Large Ring) Bolt Face Lapping Tool

[CEDaytonaRydr]

Hey guys,

I have been looking all over for a bolt face lapping tool for a 98k mauser. I am still working on a rifle for my wife and I figure that I should just go ahead and do this, while the barrel is off. The only problem seems to be finding the tool. Midway doesn't carry them, brownell's doesn't carry them and I've done google searches until I am now, officially, blue in the face.

Do any of you know where I can get a Large Ring Mauser bolt face lapping tool? ...or perhaps, do any of you have one I could rent/borrow? I'll throw in a twelver of your favorite beverage, or some cash, if you prefer.

I'm in Long Beach...

[Rust]

I think the reason you're having trouble finding one is that its a step most smiths don't do on them. When you lap the lugs they're squared off of the bolt face, so you end up with the face also square to bore line. (Or at least close to it.) If you feel that the bolt you have has a particularly out of line face it's generally a lathe job as opposed to a lapping tool. I suppose you could use one of the spring loaded lug lapping tools to lap the face as well so long as the plunger fit the face tightly so it doesn't leave a lip.

[kendog4570]

Pacific Tool and Gauge, Manson, and Clymer all make some type of this tooling. The burr is for a standard nominal .473" bolt face. You may have trouble finding a fitting for the Mauser Large Ring. I made mine from an old barrel and use the PTG cutter.

A little warning here, Mauser 98 bolts are glass hard and it will take considerable time and effort to true the bolt face via this method. Most of the Mausers I have checked/trued have a bolt face that is not very square with either the threads, lugs, or the bolt hole.

[kcstott]

Typically when you blueprint an action. The bolt is set up indicated in and then the face is indicated to see if and how for its out. While it in the lathe you can also check the rear faces of the lugs to see if they are square and true.

Then the action is set up, indicated in and the threads cleaned up and aligned to the bolt raceway. At this point you will never again be able to use a pre threaded barrel.

Then you true up every other surface that is critical to bolt and barrel alignment while the action is being held in one setup. Doing everything in one setup allows for the least amount of accumulated error.

I have been asked what I do to a rifle when I build a top shooters and I put together a generic list sort of a how to. it is all inclusive but is kind of vague in some areas.
I can post it if you'd like to see it. it is pretty long though.

[CEDaytonaRydr]

Typically when you blueprint an action. The bolt is set up indicated in and then the face is indicated to see if and how for its out. While it in the lathe you can also check the rear faces of the lugs to see if they are square and true.

I've got the bolt lugs lapped with the brownell's tool, so that's taken care of.

Then the action is set up, indicated in and the threads cleaned up and aligned to the bolt raceway. At this point you will never again be able to use a pre threaded barrel.

By "pre threaded", you mean that you will not be able to use an OEM barrel, correct? I plan on using an Adams and Bennett, short chambered barrel. I am wondering about this, though, because when I was asking you about reciever truing, you said that it wasn't necessary but after I got the barrel, I found out that it actually does contact the receiver face. So, I'm starting to think that I need to true the face after all.

Then you true up every other surface that is critical to bolt and barrel alignment while the action is being held in one setup. Doing everything in one setup allows for the least amount of accumulated error.

I have been asked what I do to a rifle when I build a top shooters and I put together a generic list sort of a how to. it is all inclusive but is kind of vague in some areas.
I can post it if you'd like to see it. it is pretty long though.

Yeah, if you don't mind. I'd like to read it...

[kcstott]

[CEDaytonaRydr]

Barrels fit the theses actions need to be custom threaded from a barrel blank.

Maybe one day, I would like to do that. I will need to get a lathe and a bunch of other tooling but that does sound like fun.

Next thing is Just because your barrel comes in touching the receiver face doesn't mean it was designed to do that. Nor should it. On a 98 Mauser and I can not stress this enough the barrel should always be torqued on the C ring and have just a touch of clearance on the receiver face. This is for alignment purposes more then anything.
There is significantly more surface area on the C ring then the receiver face.

I don't think my barrel even contacts the C ring. So, at this point, should I spin down the receiver face until the barrel contacts the C-ring? What are my options?

Now keep in mind this is for extracting the upmost in accuracy from a rifle. I don't mean to come down on you in any way but putting an A&B barrel on a Mauser is not worth the set up time to true up the receiver. That said I used an A&B barrel on my 1891 Mauser because I could not see dumping that kind of money in an action that was worth less then $100.

Well, that's probably for the best, for my first build attempt. I don't want it to be too complicated. I just want it to be a decent shooter for my wife; it doesn't have to be "perfect".

[kendog4570]

....I don't think my barrel even contacts the C ring. So, at this point, should I spin down the receiver face until the barrel contacts the C-ring? What are my options? ...

You need to measure your action, and measure your barrel. The adjustment is usually made at the torque shoulder of the barrel, or the chamber depth, depending on which type of pre-fit barrel you have. Some are deep chambered (Douglas) and some are short chambered (Brownells). If you dont know how to do this you might want to take it to someone that does.

[kcstott]

Maybe one day, I would like to do that. I will need to get a lathe and a bunch of other tooling but that does sound like fun.

Be prepared to spend a bunch of money on tools let alone the time to learn how to use them

don't think my barrel even contacts the C ring. So, at this point, should I spin down the receiver face until the barrel contacts the C-ring? What are my options?

As Ken said you need to be taking measurements off the barrel and action and the BARREL is machined to fith the action. now this beggs the question. Do you really understand what is involved here? do you at least have a book?

, that's probably for the best, for my first build attempt. I don't want it to be too complicated. I just want it to be a decent shooter for my wife; it doesn't have to be "perfect".

The level of complication only gets more so when you are building a precision rifle. The basics of installing a barrel on a bolt rifle are all the same. There is no way to cut corners even with a pre threaded barrel. And pre threaded doesn't mean "pre fit" or "drop in". The threads have to fit correctly. The headspace needs to be set correctly and the barrel needs to a have a good torque put on it when installed.

[CEDaytonaRydr]

What about cutting a saftey breech? Is that required, or is it "optional".

[kendog4570]

What are you talking about?

[CEDaytonaRydr]

What are you talking about?

On the back of a lot of rifle barrels (and most Mauser barrels) there is a protrusion that is machined into the face of the barrel, leaving a few hundreths of material that sits in the recess of the C-ring. I don't think it's "mandatory" but if you do this, you will have to cut a knotch in it, so that the extractor can grab the rim of the case and so it will clear the barrel.

[kcstott]

You've been looking at too many Remingtons. All Mauser 1898 barrels are flat breeched except for a few Yugos.
Not needed nor desired in anyway.

[CEDaytonaRydr]

You've been looking at too many Remingtons. All Mauser 1898 barrels are flat breeched except for a few Yugos.
Not needed nor desired in anyway.

Yeah, most of my Mausers are Yugos. "Guilty as charged"!

Not desired...? Do they get in the way of the extractor, or something? I'm having a problem with a barrel on an M48 B.O. and I suspect that's the problem.

FYI: I'll take some receiver and barrel measurements tonight and see where we're at.

Thanks for your help with this, guys!!! Drinks are on me if we ever cross paths...

[kcstott]

Well it was never needed in the first place. I'm a Mauser purest as you can see. I just don't feel to was ever needed. but it made the Yugo's feel better.

Now with your barrel being a short chambered A&B it's going to be even shorter if you machine a safety breach. Then you're going to be there for a little while with the finish reamer.