308 TM 80% AR

[ElectronWrangler]

Just got done putting together my TM10 Lower after getting it back from Annodizing. Had a couple of problems.

First I lost one of the spacers, either the one for the bolt catch or the rear take down pin, not sure which one. Already contacted TM on this one.

Second I put in the spring and detent for the front pivot pin, using a punch to gently push it in. Now it won't come back out, so it does not retain the pivot pin. Any ideas how to get it out?

I've already tried tapping it with the punch and just tapping the lower.

Thanks.

[goober]

this is one reason its good to have a vent/drain hole on this blind hole, like on spec AR15 lowers.
it keeps a vacuum from forming and also gives you a hole to poke a wire or blow compressed air through.
it may toast your spring but you could try drilling a 5/64" hole about 1" back from the center of the pivot pin hole. you only need to go about 1/8" deep to pop into the detent hole.
then fill the detent hole up w/ penetrating oil, let it soak, and then shoot compressed air through the vent hole, being sure to have something ready to catch the detent and/or spring when they shoot out.
the vent is a good thing to have, you won't be compromising your lower at all by adding it... you'll be improving it.

[baih777]

sounds like your anodizing was too thick. run the correct size drill bit through all the holes before you continue by hand.
cant help you with the other.

[Nathan Krynn]

First I lost one of the spacers, either the one for the bolt catch or the rear take down pin, not sure which one. Already contacted TM on this one.

Second I put in the spring and detent for the front pivot pin, using a punch to gently push it in. Now it won't come back out, so it does not retain the pivot pin. Any ideas how to get it out?

I've already tried tapping it with the punch and just tapping the lower.

Thanks.

If your one of the email's I got on this I probably responded and put a set set in the mail. If not then email me your name and address and ask for a new set. I send these out for people all the time so I am unsure if your one or not.

The detent should just fall out so the spring should be the only problem. The .050 hex you use for the set screws should be all you need to remove the spring. Put in the hex inside the spring and angle to one side then while angled pull it out. Basically your catching one of the coils and pulling it free. If this doesn't work then a paper clip should do the trick.

this is one reason its good to have a vent/drain hole on this blind hole, like on spec AR15 lowers.
it keeps a vacuum from forming and also gives you a hole to poke a wire or blow compressed air through.

the vent is a good thing to have, you won't be compromising your lower at all by adding it... you'll be improving it.

I agree adding a vent hole is not a bad modification at all. We have thought about it and I will bring it up again.

sounds like your anodizing was too thick. run the correct size drill bit through all the holes before you continue by hand.
cant help you with the other.

It could be thick but the ID of holes do not get nearly as thick as the sides which on hard coat should be .0008” -.0012”.

The most likely cause is bead blasting material that got stuck in there and then anodized over. There is an easy fix for this once you get the spring out. Take that paper clip and put it in there and do the twist (make sure you have appropriate music) then turn the lower around and tap it on your desk. I bet a lot of sand like substance comes out. Rinse and repeat until no material comes out. A small drill bit by hand works better then the paper clip.

[Roccobro]

EW- If you don't get it out by the next AK BP, I'll have a look at it. I've got a few tricks up my sleeve.

Justin

[ElectronWrangler]

Thanks Justin. Are you setup for Tigging 6061?

I managed to stop just short of trying to tap it out with an 8 pound sledgehammer.

[Roccobro]

Thanks Justin. Are you setup for Tigging 6061?

I managed to stop just short of trying to tap it out with an 8 pound sledgehammer.

Yes. Put down the hammer... anodizing is hard to weld through to fix things beaten up!

Justin

[ElectronWrangler]

Well I finally got the spring out. It took multiple broken drill bits and end mills to get it done. Thanks Justin.

What are my options to repair this thing? I am absolutely sick over this the milling, engraving, and type 3 annodizing were perfect. I can't believe that the spring and detent were stuck inside this thing as bad as they were.




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[Zartan]

OUCH

[ElectronWrangler]

Any Ideas?

[ott1]

Blast it and use this? Then reanodize it.