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[Vladimir]

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[Vladimir]

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[sean michael]

Mine's the same way. Maybe by design? Bugs me when I'm lookin through it at home. But not when I'm at the range shootin it. Congrats on the PSL aquisition. I love mine and trying to get another one put together too. I've got this thing about getting two of everything I really like

[NoHeavyHitter]

That how the PSO/PSOP scopes work. If the impact is to the left, the reticle moves to the left to match.

Yes, this is backwards from how scopes that most Americans are used operating and seems a bit confusing at first, but after you become familiarized they actually make perfect sense.

This is also why many of the LPS-Tip2 scopes (issued with PSL's) are numbered (in electro-pencil) to a specific rifle.

If it bothers you a lot or is off-centered too much, go buy a feeler gauge set from Harbor Freight and use it to make shims for where the scope is screwed onto the clamp.

[Vladimir]

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[NoHeavyHitter]

I know making the adjustments moves the entire reticle, I mean the reticle itself is slightly canted, I wouldnt say all the way to 11 o clock, but a little.

Sorry - I misunderstood. By canted you're saying that it is "rotationally" not accurate. I'd read of another PSL owner with this problem some time ago. He fixed the problem by taking the scope apart and there was a ring with 3 screws in slots that permitted the reticle to be rotated to correct the condition.

Clearly, this ruined any nitrogen purge by venting it - by the author of that post said he was able to adjust the reticle properly. I'm not certain that I can find that post again, but if you are interested - I can PM you where I found that information. I don't know if posting links to information in other forums is against the rules here and do not want to get anyone mad at me if it is..

[Vladimir]

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[NoHeavyHitter]

I couldn't find the post, but found stumbled onto a "clip" of instructions (not the actual post) for a problem that sounds like yours. I did not write this - only saw it as a reader, so I'm posting this with the caveat that it is "second hand hear-say" to me. So take it as that and decide it the info will help->

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"It ended up being a loose glass where the reticle is etched on it not a bent or loose rail.

Found this on line and it worked! Adjusting the screw just right part get tricky but worth the effort.

"Around the body of the scope where the eyepiece tube (the end where you look into the scope, dunno what the actual name of it is) screws into it, there are three extremely tiny screws. They're easy to miss because they've been painted over and look like tiny dimples. Take a jeweler's screwdriver and unscrew these. These are locking screws that lock the eyepiece tube in place, so once these are removed the entire eyepiece tube can be unscrewed counterclockwise. The thing has probably been screwed on since its manufacture so it may be stuck, but a pair of pliers with a thick piece of leather (I.E. an old belt you don't need anymore) around the scope so that you won't scrape it will help you take it off.

Once the eyepiece tube is removed, look inside the body and you'll see a metal square with a round hole in the middle, with three screws in it. This is the windage/elevation assembly, and the screws mount the reticle on the other side of this assembly. Loosen up all three screws but do not unscrew them all the way- if you do, the reticle will detach and you'll need to take the front scope tube off to screw it back on (the front tube comes off the exact same way as the eyepiece tube, if you need to do this).

You will notice that the screws holding the reticle to the windage/elevation assembly aren't screwed into holes. but semicircular slots. These slots are there to allow you to adjust the reticle by rotating the reticle a fraction of an inch clockwise and counterclockwise. Now comes the pain in the [censored] part: with a jeweler's screwdriver, push the upper right screw along its slot to rotate the reticle in the direction you need to correct it by, and then tighten it, leaving the other screws loose for now. Screw the eyepiece tube back in, mount in onto your rifle, and check the reticle. You will find that all you need to do is move the reticle a hair and it'll look like it was rotated a mile, so there's no way around having to measure it by eye. You'll need to repeat the process of unscrewing the eye tube, unscrewing the upper right screw holding the reticle to the elevation/windage assembly, rotating the reticle a hair, tightening it again, screwing the eye tube back on, mounting it on your rifle, and checking how the reticle looks by eye until the reticle lines up properly.

Once you have the reticle to your liking, unscrew the eye tube one more time, tighten all three reticle screws, screw the eye tube back on and screw the locking screws back in. It helps to find a bowl to put the locking screws in as you're doing all this because they're practically microscopic and VERY easy to lose. You'll obviously need to take it to the range to zero the scope to the rifle again, once you're done. FYI try not to breathe into the scope while you're doing this- moisture from your breath may get trapped inside the scope, leaving the glass all fogged up when you take it out to the field."
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I'd thanks the author that wrote this - however, I do not know who deserves the credit. Good luck!

[NoHeavyHitter]

Sorry - we're cross-posting... Didn't know you saw that already. I'm out of ideas other than that.

[Vladimir]

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