Yet ANOTHER AK Build Question

[NRAhighpowershooter]

OK.. I get to do my pick up on my NDS-3 receiver this Thursday... I have done a lot of reparkerizing on my Garands and 03's and Carbines and such.. can these NDS-3 receiver be parkerized before assembly or does it need the trunion and rivets installed first? I plan on parkerizing the trunion and rear block stock mounts before installing them as I nicked then up a tad getting the rivets.

[jumbopanda]

You can parkerize in any order than you want, but it is best to do the whole thing after final assembly to cover up any small scuffs that might have resulted from the build process.

[submaniac]

Ummm...if it is an Nodakspud/DCI reciever...I think it is already parkerized. My DCI Yugo receiver already came Parkerized when I got it, so I think that it would be the same on yours as well (unless they only Park'd the Yugos....)

If it were me (and from my experience parkerizing) you can Park before and after. Meaning if you want to Parkerize each individual part (like trunions or receiver, etc.) you can do that BEFORE assembly. Once you get the entire receiver assembled (say you want to Parkerize the rivets) I would dunk the entire assembled receiver and Parkerize again. Any of the parts that were not parkerized will be Parkerized, and the areas already Parkerized will basically not be effected (they won't change color from what they already are).

As a specific example, when I did my Mauser receiver, I did not like how the front part of the receiver looked. I simply sanded and polished the front part of the receiver (leaving the rear portion--the part I liked) alone. When I put the thing in the Park tank the front matched the rear. In other words, they came out the same color.

[Bladewurk]

NDS-3s are blasted from factory but not parked..wait till all test-firing and tweaks are done then finish...

[NRAhighpowershooter]

ok... so .... where do I get the rivets? and the US made trigger parts? Also I assume that I should get the double hook set-up, correct (Tapco G2 kit? from AK-Builder.com??)? I'll go with a US made stock set from Ironwood.
oh... and when I get ready I'll gladly pay someone who might be close to me to help me with the rivets

[Ford8N]

ok... so .... where do I get the rivets? and the US made trigger parts? Also I assume that I should get the double hook set-up, correct (Tapco G2 kit? from AK-Builder.com??)? I'll go with a US made stock set from Ironwood.
oh... and when I get ready I'll gladly pay someone who might be close to me to help me with the rivets

Jake has what you need.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=74101

[oaklander]

If it's a Romy kit, the wood can be refinished to look really nice - no need to buy new wood. Get the rivets and G2 (double-hook) from ak-builder.com - he's got good rivets. I used some "bad" rivets once and they started to pull out - so get the good ones from AK-builder.

I assume you know the 922(r) parts that you need (6):

Most people do this:

1) receiver
2) hammer
3) trigger
4) sear
5) muzzle brake
6) U.S. pistol grip - or "no" pistol grip (i.e., MMG)

I would suggest the Wood AK grip, if MMG has any left - I have two of them - and I can't wait to stain them to match my wood!

ok... so .... where do I get the rivets? and the US made trigger parts? Also I assume that I should get the double hook set-up, correct (Tapco G2 kit? from AK-Builder.com??)? I'll go with a US made stock set from Ironwood.
oh... and when I get ready I'll gladly pay someone who might be close to me to help me with the rivets

[daves100]

another question

where do you get the NDS-3 receivers from? Also what is the price on them

[NRAhighpowershooter]

where do you get the NDS-3 receivers from? Also what is the price on them

http://www.nodakspud.com/page2.htm

$55 shipped to your friendly FFL

[M. Sage]

You do want that double-hook kit, but remember that you'll need to add another notch in the trigger hole of the receiver, and make sure that it fits the trigger.

If you ask me really nice, I might show you how to turn that cheap G2 trigger (trigger pull = one stage - nothing but creep) into a more useful two-stage trigger.

[NRAhighpowershooter]

If you ask me really nice, I might show you how to turn that cheap G2 trigger (trigger pull = one stage - nothing but creep) into a more useful two-stage trigger.

Pretty, pretty PLEASE with a cherry on top????

[M. Sage]

Hint: Disassemble an M1 and look closely at the trigger, see how a two-stage is done there. Then compare the M1 trigger to an AK trigger.

Break out the Dremel. And put a spacer on the disconnector spring.

I figured it out after looking at how a Garand NM trigger worked. AK trigger is almost identical, though you'll never get it to work as nice.

[Ford8N]

Hint: Disassemble an M1 and look closely at the trigger, see how a two-stage is done there. Then compare the M1 trigger to an AK trigger.

Break out the Dremel. And put a spacer on the disconnector spring.

I figured it out after looking at how a Garand NM trigger worked. AK trigger is almost identical, though you'll never get it to work as nice.

I've always wanted to to this.

[cartman]

If it's a Romy kit, the wood can be refinished to look really nice - no need to buy new wood. Get the rivets and G2 (double-hook) from ak-builder.com - he's got good rivets. I used some "bad" rivets once and they started to pull out - so get the good ones from AK-builder.

I assume you know the 922(r) parts that you need (6):

Most people do this:

1) receiver
2) hammer
3) trigger
4) sear
5) muzzle brake
6) U.S. pistol grip - or "no" pistol grip (i.e., MMG)

I would suggest the Wood AK grip, if MMG has any left - I have two of them - and I can't wait to stain them to match my wood!

If my build follows the same 6 us parts you list can i use a imported mag? Also what does a 2 stage trigger do?

[M. Sage]

I've always wanted to to this.

Alright... I'll get off my butt this weekend and take some pics. It's not much to look at, though, so I'll have to put commentary along with it.

Basically, you remove the "nose" of the disconnect so that it swings farther forward. You'll have to get it so that it barely touches the hammer before the trigger breaks. Then you'll have to take some material off the hammer shelf for the disconnect, so that the disconnect will let go of it. . Then, you cut the nose off a .22 LR bullet, and put it in the hole in the disconnect for the spring, so the spring has more tension...

At least, that's what I did.

It ain't much, but it at least lets me know about where the break is going to happen. Much better than it was before I spent all that time grinding on the trigger (on the kitchen counter )