Update: problem solved *** Messed up my SKS trigger...not sure how

[hammerhead_77]

I managed to mess up my sks trigger, but I'm not sure what happened...

I disassembled the trigger group and replaced the actual trigger piece with a replacement part. After reassembling, pushing down slightly on the disconnector allows the trigger bar to move forward, but the hammer is not released...nothing happens.

I just had a trigger job done by Bill Springfield, and I didn't mess with anything else - punched the pins out, replaced the trigger with a US made replacement, reassembled and pushed the pins back in...

Anyone care to help me diagnose what is going on and what to do about it?

[hawaii five-0]

PM sent

[hammerhead_77]

Thanks, five-O.

Anybody got a suggestion of what is wrong here?

[Musashi]

yeah no idea.. same thing happened to me, so i'd be glad to hear an answer. if you post pics that may help

[hawaii five-0]

have you put the bolt and carrier back in the gun?Trigger wont work till you do.Sometimes,after people install trigger group,they"test it out"without completely reassembling and it wont work.

[SureShot241]

All I know is that the way the safety works on an SKS makes the trigger a very picky thing to mess with if you don't know exactly what you are doing.

[hammerhead_77]

have you put the bolt and carrier back in the gun?Trigger wont work till you do.Sometimes,after people install trigger group,they"test it out"without completely reassembling and it wont work.

I did both - function check outside and after reassembly. Neither one worked.

Usually the problem outside the rifle is not pushing down on the disconnector.

[hammerhead_77]

All I know is that the way the safety works on an SKS makes the trigger a very picky thing to mess with if you don't know exactly what you are doing.

Actually, the safety spring is a pain to get back in, but the safety on an SKS is simply a physical block of the trigger itself. Safety on, you can't pull the trigger back. It does not act on the sear or firing pin.

[Guillermo]

When you push the disconnector to line the trigger bar up with the sear and pull the trigger, do you see the sear move? You should see the sear / magazine latch spring compress.

Does the disconnector move freely when lining the trigger bar up with the sear or do you have to push on the hammer to line the two up?

How well can you see the sear and trigger bar in the viewing hole on the side? They should meet right in the middle of the hole and the trigger bar should push the sear towards the magazine latch until the sear is no longer visible in the hole.

When slowly resetting the hammer, there should be two clicks very close together, right at the end. First click should make the disconnector jump, second click should make the sear jump.

It could be something simple like the sear being upside-down. That is the easiest way to have similar symptoms.

[hammerhead_77]

When you push the disconnector to line the trigger bar up with the sear and pull the trigger, do you see the sear move? You should see the sear / magazine latch spring compress.

Does the disconnector move freely when lining the trigger bar up with the sear or do you have to push on the hammer to line the two up?

How well can you see the sear and trigger bar in the viewing hole on the side? They should meet right in the middle of the hole and the trigger bar should push the sear towards the magazine latch until the sear is no longer visible in the hole.

When slowly resetting the hammer, there should be two clicks very close together, right at the end. First click should make the disconnector jump, second click should make the sear jump.

It could be something simple like the sear being upside-down. That is the easiest way to have similar symptoms.

Thanks much for this breakdown! I know that the trigger bar is not engaging the sear. I didn't think I could get it in upside down, because of the little tracks it slides on...I'll check that right away. Given your description, its time to go get a light and some magnification and see what is going on!

I'll post results back...

[hammerhead_77]

So...still struggling with this. For some reason the trigger bar is not making contact with the sear...

I know of at least one other person who has had this problem, but no solutions yet.

Anyone?

[Don Edmondson]

put the old parts back in if it works you know its not you possible when the trigger work was done some metal was removed. = no travel or excess take up Don

[hammerhead_77]

I'm doing this today... It seems like the trigger link that I got from SGworks has a little bit too big hole size for the pins and this loose fit is allowing the trigger bar to move around a lot. It is going under the sear instead of pushing on it, and there is a lot of side to side movement as well.

Means I'll have to go find another US part for 922r...

[richrmi]

Not sure what may have happened when you switched parts as the SKS trigger group was one I elected to have someone else modify. I too had my trigger group first modified by Mr. Springfield but was not pleased with the result as I had been with several other trigger jobs, Garand, M1 Carbine, Ruger Mini, AR. The SKS was no better modified than the stock group I had sent out.

A little research led me to the Survivor's SKS board and I ran across the Kivaari's Triggers forum. After reading several positive reports of Tom's SKS trigger work, I sent mine in last year.

All I can say is my SKS trigger feels worlds better than it did after it was modified by Kivaari. Tom Prince really understands SKS trigger groups and knows how to make them right. It took a few weeks to get back but was well worth the wait. It is now very easy to keep on target while negotiating the shorter trigger pull; smooth and consistent.

http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?PHPSESSID=efd1e091985f26926e38b24dd2c3b936&board=62.0

http://www.kivaari.com/

HTH,
Rich

[hammerhead_77]

Problem Solved

The problem with the trigger has been solved. First off, I need to let everyone know that the neither the work that Bill Springfield did on the trigger, nor the SGworks trigger link was the problem.

The problem was coming from the trigger bar included in the SGworks kit and the dimensions of my specific SKS. The SGW trigger bar was a little too big for my specific gun, and would bind against the trigger group leaf spring thereby preventing the trigger from resetting. The solution was to remove some material from the back of the trigger bar so the trigger could properly reset.

Now it works just great - very smooth, light pull. Longer pull than my AR, but a lighter pull and smooth, clean break.

Thanks to everyone who provided suggestions and tips! I'll post a thread of the full project here soon.