Duracoat - Glock 22

[ODG23]

Here is my latest paint job. I've been airbrushing more and more, so If anyone is interested in getting something painted, please PM me. I always love new projects!

[Domingo]

Nice where are you in north cal

[ODG23]

Thank you! Im living in Chico, but I travel to the Sacramento area to see my family quite a bit. PM me if you have other questions, thanx.

[mark2203]

Learn how to do a grip reduction and stippling and you got a good thing going for yourself from a business perspective.

[ODG23]

I've honestly been thinking about that. I've had enough experience on troubleshooting and repair that I think that I can do a clean job with the stippling. I've been putting thought into a Weller soldering iron for the job. I'm going to look into it some more.

[ODG23]

I've honestly been thinking about that. I've had enough experience on troubleshooting and repair that I think that I can do a clean job with the stippling. I've been putting thought into a Weller soldering iron for the job. I'm going to look into it some more.

[ArcherDog]

Is there any problems with Duracoat on the grips? My wife wants her FNP-9 painted red, and I was a bit leery about spraying the duracoat on the grips. Which of their products did you use? And is there any issue with painting the slide as well (even though I see you did not)?

[ODG23]

Is there any problems with Duracoat on the grips?

A: you need to use an Adhesion Promoter on all plastics. Duplicolor at your local auto parts store is $7.

Which of their products did you use?

A: Flat Paint, Satin Clear, Reducer (but laquer thinner is much cheaper), some digital stencils (not this project). So far so good. There are many little tricks especially when using airbrushing equipment. There is plenty to learn about the gear.

And is there any issue with painting the slide as well (even though I see you did not)?

A: I have painted metal also, and it sticks to metal much better. I didn't use the Adhesion Promoter and it stuck really well and the stencils worked on all the metal also. You will want to sand it sown some with 600 grit after degreasing.

Side Note: I would not paint barrel on semi-auto pistols. There isn't enough room for the barrel to sit in place with paint on them. It would have to be a really light coat. I simply stay away from it.

[hammerhead_77]

I am about to embark on a rather major Duracoat project... The one thing that I am having a hard time understanding is what can be painted assembled versus disassembled. For example, if I paint a scope ring will I ever be able to loosen the screws on it again or will they be forever cemented in place?

Can I use a release agent on things that I don't want to stick - for example use shoe polish on screws/threads/safety levers, etc?

[hammerhead_77]

Actually, let me get really specific, since you seem to be very good at Duracoat and I'd really like to take advantage of your experiance and advice...

I am going to put a camo pattern on my Moss 590A1. It will be easy to spray the base coat on everything disassembled, but far easier to paint the camo (and get the lines to match) if I spray the other colors while assembled. Am I going to end up with my magazine tube permanently glued into the receiver.

[ODG23]

i would tape off all screw threads. maybe use a screw-driver with a thin shirt pulled over it to assemble so you don't ruin paint, or simply don't paint screws at all (i didn't). and also wait for as long as possible to assemble - 2 weeks or more (even though they say you can the next day).

as far as getting the patterns to to line up, many paint jobs don't so do not be too hard on yourself if you don't get them all. Also, when painting where parts or seems come together or even where you have tape and stencils - don't spray too much paint like you are sealing things in. Pay careful attention to what parts barely fit together and go lighter on them or they simply won't go back together unless you sand those parts back down and ruin the paint. You can also gently put parts back together, just too lightly spray enough paint too "mark" where you want the patterns too line up and then break it back down and paint, but you can paint it assembled (just be careful). I took my scope rings off and painted pattern and then reassembled (i measured it and made sure to put it back where I had it). you can also simply lay the parts next to each other without being assembled and mark or stencil you patterns, then paint.

And you can use Mineral Spirits to clean residue from stencils or tape between layers to get sticky residue from stencil off before next color. nothing stronger or you will take paint off.

Hope that helps!

[cactus]

I have a Serbu BFG50 id like to Durracoat with some type of cammo. Its a pretty big job I think.

[Sgt. J Beezy]

Nice looking duracoat job. Too bad you are not located in So Cal!

[ODG23]

Thank you! I would love to do more work too!

[upt2011]

Ok I'm sorry i know this thread is like a month old, but i came across this on Google and I would like to try and save some people from some messed up guns.

First of all, do not send any guns to this guy to be painted. Clearly someone who suggests using an adhesion promoter from Walmart does not have any idea how to operate with Duracoat. First of all, Duracoat does not need an adhesion promoter. Secondly You are suggesting Duplicolor, which is not the same brand or type of paint and is not compatible with the chemical process of Duracoat.

Second of all you can absolutely paint a barrel on a semi automatic pistol, you just have to know what you are doing.

Even with all of my research and time spent with Duracoat and LCW, i opted to not do it myself. I sent mine to a certified Duracoat finisher, as anyone should. This is not painting your xbox it is a life saving device and you want it to look great and last. I sent mine to Twisted Monkey Customs.

https://www.twistedmonkeycustoms.com