Unconfigured Ad Widget

Collapse

Rust Bluing

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • mikajo39
    Member
    • Nov 2011
    • 100

    Rust Bluing

    Hey everyone Mike here. This is my first post on the form here and was wondering if you guys had any tips or how-to's on rust bluing. I've read up quite a bit on it and it seems the major disadvantage is it takes quite a long time to do. But! No biggy Sacramento state is going on winter break and I'm going to have a good 40 day break to blue AK47 parts. I have some pictures here of some practice runs I've done on a bolt and an old butt plate. Edit: I'm using Laurel Mountain forge Browning/bluing solution and am applying the solution with a cotton rag, then setting to rust for 1-3 hours.

    First pic is the first boiling of the steel nut and the butt plate.


    Everything seemed to darken as it was supposed to.

    Nut after it's first coat pre-carding.

    Now I've read people card with different things from light wire wheels, to light grit sandpaper to a hot wet rag, anyone know whats best? Because I think I may not be carding it correctly and hurting the bluing process. I've been using the Hot rag method so far and it never seems to get all the black oxide off.

    Here's the nut after two coats only using a hot wet rag to card in between.


    I forgot to snap a picture of the butt plate but the results so far are similar to the practice nut. I just want to get it down before I blue this guy since stripping it down all the way takes some time, here it is about half stripped.


    Sorry for the long post guys just thought I'd see what yah guys have to say!
    -Mike
    Last edited by mikajo39; 12-15-2011, 5:00 AM. Reason: Left out what I was using.
  • #2
    Arisaka
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2010
    • 2153

    I used a wire brush to card. Please don't forget to wear a mask. I didn't and coughed up some blood. Very scary. Your parts look nice! Very dark for the first pass.
    PRO PELLE CUTEM
    "Indeed, I tremble for my country when I reflect that God is just: that his justice cannot sleep forever"- Thomas Jefferson, 1785
    Originally posted by bwiese
    Gold standard is for idiots.
    Originally posted by J.P.Morgan
    Money is gold, and nothing else.

    Comment

    • #3
      4thSBCT
      Banned
      • Mar 2009
      • 2047

      Even with a wire bush its hard to get all the black oxide off, after a little while it will eventually go away. A few things I've noticed about rust blueing, You can use Steam instead of immersion boiling for larger items that might not fit inside a pan.

      Also to save time, you can apply a coat wait 1 hour apply a second coat and then let sit 3-4 hours for faster results.

      Comment

      • #4
        mikajo39
        Member
        • Nov 2011
        • 100

        Originally posted by Arisaka
        I used a wire brush to card. Please don't forget to wear a mask. I didn't and coughed up some blood. Very scary. Your parts look nice! Very dark for the first pass.
        Woah, what kinda blueing agent were you using? The Laurel Mountain Forge stuff by what I can tell is pretty benign, doesn't even have a smell, although I do wear a mask when I sand, nobody likes breathing nasty paint and rust.

        Comment

        • #5
          mikajo39
          Member
          • Nov 2011
          • 100

          Originally posted by 4thSBCT
          Even with a wire bush its hard to get all the black oxide off, after a little while it will eventually go away. A few things I've noticed about rust blueing, You can use Steam instead of immersion boiling for larger items that might not fit inside a pan.

          Also to save time, you can apply a coat wait 1 hour apply a second coat and then let sit 3-4 hours for faster results.
          I was wondering about applying a second coat, how hard to you usually scrub with a wire brush? I always feel like I'm just going to rip the bluing right off if I scrub too hard.

          Comment

          • #6
            4thSBCT
            Banned
            • Mar 2009
            • 2047

            Originally posted by mikajo39
            I was wondering about applying a second coat, how hard to you usually scrub with a wire brush? I always feel like I'm just going to rip the bluing right off if I scrub too hard.
            Don't scrub anything between coats. Just apply a really thin almost dry coat with a Q tip over whats already started rusting from the 1st coat.

            Prep metal, apply coat, wait 1 hr, apply 2nd coat, 4 hr wait, boil, card, done.

            Comment

            • #7
              Arisaka
              Senior Member
              • Dec 2010
              • 2153

              Originally posted by mikajo39
              Woah, what kinda blueing agent were you using? The Laurel Mountain Forge stuff by what I can tell is pretty benign, doesn't even have a smell, although I do wear a mask when I sand, nobody likes breathing nasty paint and rust.
              It wasn't the agent (Brownell's Rust Blue), it was the dust man. That **** goes everywhere when you are going to town with a brush. Pay attention to 4thSBCT, he did a thread on the steam method, works great. He's done some amazing **** on here.
              PRO PELLE CUTEM
              "Indeed, I tremble for my country when I reflect that God is just: that his justice cannot sleep forever"- Thomas Jefferson, 1785
              Originally posted by bwiese
              Gold standard is for idiots.
              Originally posted by J.P.Morgan
              Money is gold, and nothing else.

              Comment

              • #8
                bodiebill
                Member
                • Apr 2007
                • 301

                Rust Browning

                I've done "rust browning" on some Hawkin rifles. As I recall it likes a warm humid atmosphere, which doesn't naturally exist in California. A humidity cabinet was helpful. Don't know if that is recommended for rust bluing or not.
                Just a thought to consider.

                Comment

                • #9
                  darthnugget
                  Member
                  • Feb 2011
                  • 351

                  The other downside is it is messy. I doubled up on the nitrile gloves when i did mine. I am going to try the Rustoleum appliance epoxy this weekend hopefully that is faster, cleaner, durable, and just as nice. From some other posts it looks as so.
                  Since we can never hope to understand why we're here, if there's even anything to understand, the individual should choose a goal and pursue it wholeheartedly, despite the certainty of death and the meaninglessness of action.

                  -------------------
                  Please sign up for Dropbox http://db.tt/8dsT7hwb

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    mikajo39
                    Member
                    • Nov 2011
                    • 100

                    darth let us know how that Rustoleum job goes, curious to see. So far my bluing is doing pretty well, I'll post some pictures later to show you how it's going.

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    UA-8071174-1