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Procedure/technique for attaching a new muzzlebrake/compensator???

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  • Teletiger7
    Veteran Member
    • Oct 2005
    • 2720

    Procedure/technique for attaching a new muzzlebrake/compensator???

    How do I install a new muzzle brake. What is the purpose of the crush washer? Do I place crush washer on barrel and tighten the muzzle brake over it and just torque the brake until it hits the washer and gets into the right position? I have the square tool that I used to remove the old flash hiders and was thinking i could use that to also put on the muzzle brake. I know it will be hard to finally get the brake into place with the crush washer giving resistance. Do I need any other special tools or can I do this with a rubber mallet? Any info you guys can offer is greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • #2
    ar15barrels
    I need a LIFE!!
    • Jan 2006
    • 57122

    In proper use, you install the crush washer between the muzzle device and barrel, small end towards the barrel.



    Simply tighten the muzzle device until it aligns.
    There should be at least 90 degrees of crush.
    If there is not at least 90 degrees of crush, go around another full turn.

    Crush washers do NOT generally get re-used after being crushed the first time so use a new one with each new installation.
    Randall Rausch

    AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
    Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
    Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
    Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
    Most work performed while-you-wait.

    Comment

    • #3
      Teletiger7
      Veteran Member
      • Oct 2005
      • 2720

      Thanks for the advice. I'll try it out.

      Comment

      • #4
        McMadCow
        Member
        • Jan 2006
        • 142

        I was about to post the same question but I figured I'd do a little searching first. Thanks for the advice on installation Randall, but my trouble is coming during removal of the old one. As in, it won't come off! Got any ideas on how to make this happen? It's a SIG556 and there's a crush washer on there, but it won't turn even a little bit. Any advice you have to remove this darn thing would be greatly appreciated.
        Thanks!

        Comment

        • #5
          ar15barrels
          I need a LIFE!!
          • Jan 2006
          • 57122

          Originally posted by McMadCow
          my trouble is coming during removal of the old one. As in, it won't come off! Got any ideas on how to make this happen? It's a SIG556 and there's a crush washer on there, but it won't turn even a little bit. Any advice you have to remove this darn thing would be greatly appreciated.
          Find a padded chair.
          Set your rifle on the padded chair with the muzzle pointing sideways to your strong side.
          Sit your padded butt down on the rifle.
          Apply a wrench to the muzzle device.
          Make sure you are twisting in the right direction.
          Randall Rausch

          AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
          Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
          Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
          Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
          Most work performed while-you-wait.

          Comment

          • #6
            blackbok
            Senior Member
            • Apr 2007
            • 1144

            Didn't want to start another thread since my question is so close...

            I just got a new brake. The original hider had a washer (not crush). When I screw down the new brake, it tightens just past proper index, no way I can go all the way around again. When I thread it on with no washer, it lines up fine, and tight.

            Do I NEED a washer on there? I know I can order a crush washer, but honestly I dont want to crank on the barrel any more than I have to. I can also grind down the existing washer to an acceptable thickness. If I dont have to, I wont.

            Comment

            • #7
              ar15barrels
              I need a LIFE!!
              • Jan 2006
              • 57122

              Originally posted by blackbok
              Didn't want to start another thread since my question is so close...

              I just got a new brake. The original hider had a washer (not crush). When I screw down the new brake, it tightens just past proper index, no way I can go all the way around again. When I thread it on with no washer, it lines up fine, and tight.

              Do I NEED a washer on there? I know I can order a crush washer, but honestly I dont want to crank on the barrel any more than I have to. I can also grind down the existing washer to an acceptable thickness. If I dont have to, I wont.
              Buy lottery tickets, most people are not that lucky.
              If it aligns properly without a washer when it's tight, you are good.
              Randall Rausch

              AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
              Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
              Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
              Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
              Most work performed while-you-wait.

              Comment

              • #8
                blackbok
                Senior Member
                • Apr 2007
                • 1144

                Originally posted by ar15barrels
                Buy lottery tickets, most people are not that lucky.
                If it aligns properly without a washer when it's tight, you are good.
                Awesome thanks!

                Comment

                • #9
                  OptionX3
                  Member
                  • Nov 2005
                  • 344

                  Originally posted by ar15barrels
                  Find a padded chair.
                  Set your rifle on the padded chair with the muzzle pointing sideways to your strong side.
                  Sit your padded butt down on the rifle.
                  Apply a wrench to the muzzle device.
                  Make sure you are twisting in the right direction.
                  Is the torque applied to the upper itself negligible and safe? That is a much easier method then using 2 wood planks gripped in a vise. I'm pretty anal so....

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    ar15barrels
                    I need a LIFE!!
                    • Jan 2006
                    • 57122

                    Originally posted by OptionX3
                    Is the torque applied to the upper itself negligible and safe? That is a much easier method then using 2 wood planks gripped in a vise. I'm pretty anal so....
                    2 wood planks is better if you have a vise, which some people don't.
                    2 wood planks don't work for A1/A2 receivers.
                    Randall Rausch

                    AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
                    Bolt actions: www.700barrels.com
                    Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
                    Barrel, sight and trigger work on most pistols and shotguns.
                    Most work performed while-you-wait.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      SixPointEight
                      Veteran Member
                      • May 2009
                      • 3788

                      Originally posted by ar15barrels
                      Find a padded chair.
                      Set your rifle on the padded chair with the muzzle pointing sideways to your strong side.
                      Sit your padded butt down on the rifle.
                      Apply a wrench to the muzzle device.
                      Make sure you are twisting in the right direction.
                      I know this is a necropost, but thanks to Randall here I have replaced my flash hider. Thanks man

                      Comment

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