Razor 10/22 80%

[Lostsheep]

I recently finished off my razor 10/22 and thought I should share. Sorry about the low quality images, the lighting was poor and my phone and I were having a spat that day. Anyways.......

Here's how the receiver came from Selectfire. I bought the unanodized extended rail version. Their website states that if you buy the unanodized version then you will have to do deburr the receiver. I have to say it was a lot rougher than anything I would have let out of my shop. Many of the blended surfaces had large steps in them that I could not live with. I spent a lot of time cleaning up blends with my file because a .005"-.010" step is unacceptable. I'm sure everything would function fine but I wanted clean lines. All in all, I am happy with the part I received and I am happy with the price.




I started with the take-down pin holes. I threw it in the vise and used my edge finder to find the edges that the included blueprint referenced (the vise I used has the fixed jaw up front).








The instructions say to just use a 3/16" and a 1/4" drill for the takedown holes but I wanted a tighter fit on my pins. I hate how some 10/22 will spontaneously drop pins when you take the assembled receiver out of the stock. In my experience, most HSS drills cut a couple thousandths oversize so I measured the actual pins and picked the appropriate size reamers to produce approximately .0005" of clearance.

[Lostsheep]

Okay, tools in hand: 1 center drill , 2 drills, and 2 reamers.




I'm not real sure why Selectfire provides blueprints when other 80% manufacturers do not but it sure was handy. They also sell a jig but since I have access to a DRO'd mill I didn't think it was necessary.





Go to the appropriate coordinates and center drill. Keep in mind that the bolt stop pin is larger than the trigger group pins and as such can have a deeper center drill.





Holes drilled undersize. I peck drill all the way from ONE side and I always use cutting oil.





Run the reamers.......





Next up is the receiver to stock hole. It's a 12-24 screw so I went to the appropriate location and dropped a .172" hole.

[Lostsheep]

Tap 12-24 thru




Next up is the barrel v-block holes. They are also 12-24's and thus also .173" drill. You'll have to excuse my setup, it was not the right way to do this but I was impatient and did not have access to my right angle plate. If I did it again I would use the same setup that I used for the barrel hole (see below). I got away with this because the holes are fairly small.





Next up is the .250" counter bores (.70" deep) for the v block screws. I used an old drill that had broken and was then resharpened with a square bottom. A 1/4" end mill would work also, just go slow.





Next up is the magazine detent hole. You need a really long 5/16" drill for this one. The hole is at a 3 degree angle and is .250" deep. The location is a little tricky and I missed by about .010" the first time around which required going back with a really long end mill to move the hole.





Like before, this is not the right way to hold on to one of these receivers but I got away with it. I would love to hear how others located the magazine detent hole. Lining up in y for my setup was easy,just go to the middle of the part, but x was a bit of a headache. I lined up x by using a scribed line which is why I missed. I guess the jig would have been really handy for this one.





Now this is how I should have held on to it right from the get-go. The right angle plate is extremely rigid and I had a really good hold on it.

First up, center drill (The barrel location is critical so don't skip this).

[Lostsheep]

Drilling undersize:




Ream it. Many people would use a boring head here but I had a .6875" reamer so I took the easy way out.







Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of the bolt return spring seat hole. I did it by hand with a really long 1/8" drill, going through the barrel hole. I basically just eye-balled it and it works just fine. The directions didn't have a hole location call out so I compared it to the stock 10/22 receiver I have and by putting the charging handle in and looking for where it wanted to go.


I was originally going to reuse the parts from my original 10/22 but I realized the better option was to just have 2! I had already swapped out so many of the factory pieces on my first 10/22 that I was not too far away from a complete set of spare parts. I made myself a V-block out of 17-4 stainless, cut down 2 3/16" and 1 .250" stainless pins to 1.250" long, and then ordered 2ea 12-24 x 1.5 and 1ea 12-24 x 1.0" from mcmaster.





Next up it was time for a little engraving. The legal stuff is less than conspicuous when the receiver is in the stock but it's a home build and I never plan on selling it so I think I'll be okay.





The art on this one is a little obscure. I chose it because I needed something that was wide but not tall. Bonus points to anyone who gets it.






I need to anodize it and find some money for the bolt assembly and trigger assembly. I'll post pics when that happens.

[psssniper]

Their website states that if you buy the unanodized version then you will have to do deburr the receiver.

My anodized version wasn't any better. I emailed, complete with pictures, to ask them if my anodized 80% had slipped through QC. Here's there reply

That is the finish of the receiver with anodizing. You need to look very close to see those tool marks. If we sanded every unit completely smooth the price would double. Believe it or not out of the 1000 or so orders processed, you are the first to complain about the anodized finish.
Please send it back with drill fixture and I will refund your money. But be aware that any future orders will not be refunded now that you have been informed of the anodized finish

[straykiller]

looking really good, cant wait to see the final product.

[general_disarray_prk]

That ain't no drill press build! ;-)

[Lostsheep]

My anodized version wasn't any better. I emailed, complete with pictures, to ask them if my anodized 80% had slipped through QC. Here's there reply:

That is the finish of the receiver with anodizing. You need to look very close to see those tool marks. If we sanded every unit completely smooth the price would double. Believe it or not out of the 1000 or so orders processed, you are the first to complain about the anodized finish.
Please send it back with drill fixture and I will refund your money. But be aware that any future orders will not be refunded now that you have been informed of the anodized finish

Wow; I approve of their willingness to take it back but subtle $h1t talking is really inappropriate.

I guess all I can say is that if finish is important to anyone reading this, buy the unanodized version so that you can remove all of the bad blends and burrs, because apparently Selectfire is not going to do it for you nor do they think they should.

[wilit]

Cool build man. This is on my to-do list of homebuilts.

[Fjold]

Very nice, it's easier with the right tools, heh?

[Diesel-Gunner]

I used the anodized version and the barrel hole was centered for me already. Not through but just located. In the pic it looks like yours was not. Did the stop doing that or am I looking at the pic wrong?

[Jeepers]

I used the anodized version and the barrel hole was centered for me already. Not through but just located. In the pic it looks like yours was not. Did the stop doing that or am I looking at the pic wrong?

yup they had to stop locating the holes some time back


OP nice build looks awesome

[hypnoman]

nice build!!

[Lostsheep]

Very nice, it's easier with the right tools, heh?

Indeed. I am definitely a little spoiled. My families business is a job-shop.

I used the anodized version and the barrel hole was centered for me already. Not through but just located. In the pic it looks like yours was not. Did the stop doing that or am I looking at the pic wrong?

There was no mark whatsoever. I had to go by the numbers.

[Lazyme]

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