1919a4 Booster cap WON’T COME OFF!!!

[AndrewMendez]

I purchased a Blank Firing Adapter for my 1919a4, which is needed to shoot the dirt cheap German Blanks. I have tried everything, and I mean everything to get this cap off. I watched the entire 3 hour movie on gunsmithing, and it did not answer the question.
I have:

I stuck a screw driver that fit into the slot perfectly, and attempted to twist it, it didn't work.
I used a screw driver and a hammer to hit the slots, toward the direction I need to turn them off, it didn’t work.
I went down to the store and bought a strap wrench, it didn’t work.
I soaked it, literally soaked it, in a pool of WD40 for 12 hours.
I retried the above, it didn’t work.
I soaked it penetrating oil for 48 hours, than I retired the above, it didn’t work.
I put it in a vice, and grabbed a pair or channel locks. it gummed up the sides, but it didn’t work.
I put in in a vice, and grabbed a pipe wrench. It gummed up the sides some more, but it didn’t work.
I grabbed a map gas torch, and heated it up, but it didn’t work.
I grabbed a BFE and beat the crap out of it, trying to break the seal, than tried most of the above, and it still didn’t work.
I am frustrated beyond what I have been in a long long time. I really don’t want to buy more crap, for a one time use with this thing.
Advice?
I am uploading pics now.

[cdtx2001]

Did you heat the heat shield near the cap or the cap itself? You want to heat up the heat shield where the cap screws into the heat shield. That should do it.

If that doesn't work, there's a booster socket for sale on Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1919-A4-Booster-Wrench-/230501262814?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35aaf225de

[AndrewMendez]

Alright here is a picture of the entire assembly. This goes at the top ogf the shoulder thing that goes up.





Here it is on its side. Notice two separate lines on the top. The top part is what I am looking to get off, or the top line.



In comparison, this is the Blank firing adapter next to the entire booster. There is almost no smooth side of it. It is almost entirely smooth.






Top view of the two. Notice the smaller hole, to accommodate for the lack of backpressure. Also notice the scars.

[AndrewMendez]

Did you heat the heat shield near the cap or the cap itself? You want to heat up the heat shield where the cap screws into the heat shield. That should do it.

If that doesn't work, there's a booster socket for sale on Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1919-A4-Booster-...item35aaf225de

That's exactly what I did. I was just trying to break the seal with it. Didn't work. In all honesty, I don't even know if that will work. I put the damn thing in a vice, and twisted with a screw driver that could not have possibly fit in nicer. I had my Dad push it down with a hammer, and I just could not twist it. Maybe a ratchet could make it easier though. I have a ton of freaking blanks, and a bunch of people who want to fire it tomorrow. I don't think I have more then 50 308 rounds.

[EBR Works]

You probably have carbon buildup that is locking up the threads. I know that I have to soak mine in carbon remover and then use a wire brush and chisel to get the carbon out of mine after several hundred rounds. This stuff works well if you let it soak for a few days:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=31702/Product/C4_CARBON_REMOVER

Sorry I don't have a solution for you for tomorrow.
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[AndrewMendez]

You probably have carbon buildup that is locking up the threads. I know that I have to soak mine in carbon remover and then use a wire brush and chisel to get the carbon out of mine after several hundred rounds. This stuff works well if you let it soak for a few days:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=3...CARBON_REMOVER

Interesting. I was not sure how deep the oil went in, but when I heated it up, its drained out tons!! I will check this out if I can't get it off. Thank you.

[EBR Works]

A possible quick and dirty fix: If you have a drill press you could find a short bolt that is the same diameter as the booster muzzle opening. Drill a longitudinal hole in the bolt that is a similar diameter to the BFA opening. Now insert the bolt into the muzzle opening from the inside with a flat washer and put the nut on the outside with another washer and tighten. It might save your day tomorrow. Just don't forget to remove it if you go back to live rounds or you will have a bad day!

[lelandEOD]

Is the spacer ring between the cap and the booster body staked into the notch? If it is, dremel it out. That's my only idea. If you put that SOB in a vice and used a 24" pipe wrench and torch on it, I can't imagine it not giving up the ghost. Wow.

[AndrewMendez]

Is the spacer ring between the cap and the booster body staked into the notch? If it is, dremel it out. That's my only idea. If you put that SOB in a vice and used a 24" pipe wrench and torch on it, I can't imagine it not giving up the ghost. Wow.

I don't think it is, I really don't I did try and move that too, and it didn't move. I tried to move both of them at the same time, same thing. I don't even know if it is staked, if that's what holding it though. I will take some close ups right now.

A possible quick and dirty fix: If you have a drill press you could find a short bolt that is the same diameter as the booster muzzle opening. Drill a longitudinal hole in the bolt that is a similar diameter to the BFA opening. Now insert the bolt into the muzzle opening from the inside with a flat washer and put the nut on the outside with another washer and tighten. It might save your day tomorrow. Just don't forget to remove it if you go back to live rounds or you will have a bad day!

See, I had an idea like this, but not exactly what I thought of. I think I understand what your saying.

[grossekatz]

In the second pic it sure looks like its staked. If that's the case you'll need to deal with that first. I would also give it a wack with a hammer and a wood block to break up the carbon in the threads. I have had to use brute force on my garand gas nut to get to go.

[AndrewMendez]

Check out the teeth marks. Looks how hard I was prying on this thing. Does anyone see something I missed?





Two holes, no idea what they are for. They don't appear to be doing anything though.





Notice the scrap on the middle of the booster, that is from spinning in the vice that could not be cranked down more, but still managed to turn before the cap came off.


It looks really gummed up. I can clean it up with a welder if need be and a file, I am not worried about the cosmetics at this point, I just want the thing off. If you notice the slot there, the bottom or right side of it looks like it has a hole. I am assuming I should be able to see threads under that.

[AndrewMendez]

In the second pic it sure looks like its staked. If that's the case you'll need to deal with that first. I would also give it a wack with a hammer and a wood block to break up the carbon in the threads. I have had to use brute force on my garand gas nut to get to go.

recheck with the close up pics, I think you may see the teeth marks of my Channel locks. I tried multiple hits with a hammer on all sides trying to break it loose.

[50BMGBOB]

The second and third close-up pics are where it would be staked. It looks chewed up enough that I don't think it is staked, at least not anymore. Carbon build up is a possiblity and where the jaw marks are may have staked it together. I believe the locking ring stays with the main body and doesn't turn off with the cap.

[bollero]

try to use heat!!!

[ivanimal]

Kroil? let it sit 24 hours.

Carbon killer?