M1A muzzle brake

[ROOS_HAPPENS]

Hi. I have a Springfield Armory M1A, which I purchased in 1993.
It's been years since I used it for high power matches, but I'd like to start again.
I know I'll need to put on a CA approved muzzle brake, and I see that SA still has them for sale, including the pliers.
My question is, do I need to turn a pilot out of mild steel or brass, locating on the bores, in order to maintain good concentricity while tightening the new muzzle brake...or is this unnecessary?
Also, I'm assuming if I buy one 10 round magazine, and load it using stripper clips, I won't need to buy a "bullet button" type magazine catch because the rifle doesn't have enough "evil features"??? Is that correct?
Thanks in advance for any help!

[bodiebill]

M1A

Since the M1A has no hand grip you do not need a bullet button.
10 round mag makes it CA legal.

[eaglemike]

If you still have 20 rnd magazines you've owned since before the ban on sale/transfer, etc, you can still legally own and use them. You'll not want to use these with a BB equipped semiautomatic centerfire rifle.

I would edit your OP - a M1a with the original muzzle device is a featured AW in Ca.

You don't need a pin to center the new muzzle device. They aren't made that close in clearance.

[ROOS_HAPPENS]

Thanks for your help.
Doing a little online research, I find that the Springfield Armory CA legal muzzle brake has a pretty good reputation for not disturbing accuracy. Apparently it is considered good practice to check the concentricity, after installation, with an alignment tool.
Thanks again!

[dwcraig]

I am trying to do the same with an M1A that is about the same age. Have you been able to remove the supressor yet? I have tried everthing and no luck.

[john323]

If you get the brake I have the pliers and can put it on for you.

[popeye4]

I am trying to do the same with an M1A that is about the same age. Have you been able to remove the supressor yet? I have tried everthing and no luck.

There is a set screw under the sight you have to back out to allow the castle nut to move.

[popeye4]

My question is, do I need to turn a pilot out of mild steel or brass, locating on the bores, in order to maintain good concentricity while tightening the new muzzle brake...or is this unnecessary?

No, you don't. The SA brake is reamed out like a match-conditioned flash suppressor to make sure the sides cannot interfere with the bullet passing through. I believe you should use the SA brake, because the NRA Highpower rules state the brake has to have the same profile as the suppressor, which would mean the Smith brake isn't match legal. You'd need to have a really anal match director around that would DQ you for that, but it could happen.....

You might want to consider peening the grooves in the barrel that the brake ridges locate on so as to eliminate any slop. Then snug down the castle nut, but don't stress it. The last quarter inch of the barrel is the most important part for accuracy, and guess where the brake/castle nut sits.