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AK Rivet Backing Plate/Anvil Tool

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  • JPurp
    CGN/CGSSA Contributor
    • Aug 2008
    • 439

    AK Rivet Backing Plate/Anvil Tool

    First off this is a long one (I don't think I can author a short post). I am looking for any and all feedback/input/thoughts.

    I am thinking of building some backing plates to be used as an anvil for AK riveting. Here is why.

    The AK-Builder rivet jig comes with a rivet head cup (anvil) and some rubber supports for the receiver. What I find, especially with front trunnion rivets, is it is difficult to keep the receiver horizontal and level. If the receiver moves too much to one side the rivet head cup will create a half moon impression in the receiver (I know it's not the end of the world).

    I like the idea of the backing plate offered by GunThings.com. http://www.gunthings.com/galil.htm The plate is generic and since it is not larger than the foot print of the receiver I have concerns that instead of a half moon imprint around the head of the rivet I could end up with a fine line in the receiver (again not the end of the world).

    ArizonaResponseSystems.com has built a support plate for AKS-74 folding trunnions that is more in line with what I would like to make. http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.co....shtml#anchor4 I like that he has shaped the anvil pocket to match the AK-74 flatter rivet heads.

    The other reason I like this approach is speed. You place the rivets in the receiver, put the support plate on top of it, flip it over and put in in the rivet jig. Where I really think this could come in handy is at build parties where we are equipment limited.

    The only drawback to this approach I can see is needing a pair of support plates (left and right side) for each different rivet pattern.

    I am wondering if anyone has gone down this road and might have a design with measurements they are willing to share? Any thoughts on what material to use for the backing plate?

    I don't have a mill (yet!) but I can get access to a CNC. If I could get plans together I could get a few prototypes build for the next build party.

    Any and all thoughts welcomed.

    -JP
    Do your part and join! National Rifle Association, CalGuns Foundation, California Rifle & Pistol Association, Second Amendment Task Force

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  • #2
    WTSGDYBBR
    Senior Member
    • Jun 2010
    • 2159

    Several builder use there own home made plates. I agree with the issue with the AK Builder style plate and hate when the lower tweaks and get my happy face. If you start making them let me know as I would buy a few sets.
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    • #3
      straykiller
      Veteran Member
      • Feb 2010
      • 2573

      I would be interested as well


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      • #4
        Roccobro
        Veteran Member
        • Feb 2007
        • 2907

        I haven't had any of the "smiley face" rivets. I align everything by wiggling the receiver side-to-side while tightening down the pressure bolt. This is with the alignment pin in. This helps line up everything instead just assuming because you have it in the jig it is G2G.

        If I cannot twist the pin by finger, or remove it by hand, it is NOT in alignment. You notice the difference in thinner rivets like the Centers Support where it will lean over once pressure is starts being applied. Instead of moving and compressing straight down.

        Either way, have at making your plates. I was given a Romy specific one made by a much loved Mod at one of my BP's recently. But there is always room for innovation and competition in the tool world.

        Justin
        For any questions contact me by email.
        Thanks,
        Justin
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        • #5
          tujungatoes
          Calguns Addict
          • Dec 2006
          • 7942

          The bucking plates I've used/made are similar to the gunthings ones. They work well, and I've never had a line in my receiver. I do understand the frustration with the pyramid curtis sells. There's actually a few things about his long rivet jig I don't care for. Overall it's still a very good tool though. The best advice I can give you is to throw those little rubber blocks away, and get some shims to support the receiver. Follow roccobro's advice on alignment. IMO That's the best way to do it.
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          • #6
            SVT-40
            I need a LIFE!!
            • Jan 2008
            • 12894

            Get small piece of steel, grind relief for rivet head, done.

            The plate below, I use for many tasks when building has the rivet reliefs.

            When making your jig be sure to leave the recess for the rivet shallow so you don't get a gap between the rivet head and the receiver. I have a plate like the one you envision, just no photos. I still use the AK builder tool sometimes though. I've never really had a issue with the halos around the rivets. Just go slow reposition the receiver if it starts to go off level.



            I too did not like the AK builder set up for the long rivets. Mainly because it was hard to manipulate the receiver between the two bolts. So I made this. It allows far more access to the rivet and you can orient the receiver any way you want.



            Last edited by SVT-40; 05-18-2011, 7:01 PM.
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            • #7
              JPurp
              CGN/CGSSA Contributor
              • Aug 2008
              • 439

              Thanks everyone for the feedback. I don't really have any intention of selling what I make. For those of you that are interested I will share my trials and errors.

              Interestingly enough I have only gotten the "happy face" with the short rivet jig when dealing with the front trunnion. I am going to take the advice and ditch the AK-Builder rubber supports.

              I think the biggest issue is I don't have any spare metal laying around to be used for shims. I figure if I am going to pickup some metal scraps I might as well skip over shims and go straight to a backing plate. That said I am taking my $1.80 to Lowes tomorrow to buy the shims in the link.

              Seeing SVT-40's "multi plate" has got me thinking I could go with a larger plate and just put the different rivet patters on the plate. I guess I could even use both sides.

              Caiman I assume the 5/16 ball endmill is for standard rivets. What is the 1/4 flat endmill for?

              -JP
              Last edited by JPurp; 05-18-2011, 9:56 PM.
              Do your part and join! National Rifle Association, CalGuns Foundation, California Rifle & Pistol Association, Second Amendment Task Force

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