Mini-Mill Project Ideas.

[ElectronWrangler]

I'm looking at an X2 Mini-Mill and wondering what kind of gun projects I could complete with it. So far I've got 80% AR's, Razor 80% 10/22, 80% 1911, and AK reweld weld clean-up. What other things could I do with this thing?

[straykiller]

make it cnc, they have kits out there for your mini mill

[Grumpyoldretiredcop]

Amen to CNCing... that is the eventual goal I have for mine. If you're really ambitious, think 0% AR lower.

[desertdweller]

A guy at a CNC shop saw the 80% 1911 and [U]he[U] thought it would be doable, but the plans from billet would be a PITA.

So far I've just done AR 80% and some minor fabricating non-gun related. If you know SolidWorks/SurfCAM, it would be really cool to try AR billet w/CNC. I'm doing a reweld next and I plan on using my mill for weld cleanup.

[thrasherfox]

You can make the X2 mini mill a CNC?

I was looking at buying that thing and all I saw was the computer control that slides it back and forth.

Does anyone have a link to something that makes it a CNC?

[Grumpyoldretiredcop]

FigNoggle CNC Conversion Plans

[Peter.Steele]

www.hobbycnc.com sells kits to build your own CNC controller. They include the stepper motors and everything. All you need to provide yourself is a transformer (cost me about $20 to get one) and an enclosure for the power supply / driver board. Oh, and a computer and the software.

I got the 4-axis pro kit with 305 oz/in steppers, because I was building a CNC router and I wanted to do 4-axis with it.

Things have changed somewhat, however ... I just got a mill and lathe and I think I'm going to get a rotary table and make the mill a 4-axis CNC instead of the router.

[WARDOG]

If you are not mass producing single parts, I would not invest in CNC as a hobby.
Guns are usually one-off projects and you could easily finish the machining part well before you get done with the programming.
I do alot of machining on firearm components and a CNC is a waste of time for that kind of work. PLUS if you make a minor mistake in the programming, or program the wrong tool to make the cut, you have just scrapped a good gun.
I would recommend installing a DRO (Digital Read-Out) on your mini-mill, along with some power feeds (NOT CNC). The DRO prevents a lot of mistakes, and makes reading the dimensions of the cut MUCH quicker than staring at a dial and counting the revolutions, especially if counting backwards from the dial readout. Dial readouts only go ONE way while the DRO can go either way. Most of your time is in the set-up anyway. Unless you have a jig specifically for the part you just machined, once you remove it your CNC program isn't going to help you fix it if something didn't get machined correctly.
I agree that CNC's are cool to watch, but a lot of gunsmithing machining is about the sound and feel of the cut. You encounter different metal alloys for all different parts, all with different machining properties. Manual machines, you can adjust chip load, speed, rpm if the cutter is getting worn, A CNC will just plow through the program with a higher likelihood of chunking your nice 1911 frame or breaking your cutter.
I purchased a spankin' new Lagun FTV-1 a few years ago, installed a DRO (Accu-Rite), power feeds (Servo), and a Pnuematic collet changer (Kurt). It was a much better investment to this day over a CNC for this type of work.
Just my $.02 worth.
WARDOG
aka: Yankee Metallic Metalcraft
JRH Advanced Gunsmithing

[Mikeb]

If you are not mass producing single parts, I would not invest in CNC as a hobby.
Guns are usually one-off projects and you could easily finish the machining part well before you get done with the programming.
I do alot of machining on firearm components and a CNC is a waste of time for that kind of work. PLUS if you make a minor mistake in the programming, or program the wrong tool to make the cut, you have just scrapped a good gun.
I would recommend installing a DRO (Digital Read-Out) on your mini-mill, along with some power feeds (NOT CNC). The DRO prevents a lot of mistakes, and makes reading the dimensions of the cut MUCH quicker than staring at a dial and counting the revolutions, especially if counting backwards from the dial readout. Dial readouts only go ONE way while the DRO can go either way. Most of your time is in the set-up anyway. Unless you have a jig specifically for the part you just machined, once you remove it your CNC program isn't going to help you fix it if something didn't get machined correctly.
I agree that CNC's are cool to watch, but a lot of gunsmithing machining is about the sound and feel of the cut. You encounter different metal alloys for all different parts, all with different machining properties. Manual machines, you can adjust chip load, speed, rpm if the cutter is getting worn, A CNC will just plow through the program with a higher likelihood of chunking your nice 1911 frame or breaking your cutter.
I purchased a spankin' new Lagun FTV-1 a few years ago, installed a DRO (Accu-Rite), power feeds (Servo), and a Pnuematic collet changer (Kurt). It was a much better investment to this day over a CNC for this type of work.
Just my $.02 worth.
WARDOG
aka: Yankee Metallic Metalcraft
JRH Advanced Gunsmithing

I agree, writing the code by hand is a pain and getting a good CAM package is expensive. The best part of having a mill is making parts and for most part unless you are making a lot of them it is easier by hand. Also to set up a good program you have to have a good handle on feeds and speeds. For the less knowledgeable machinist working by 'feel" is easier. If it is a new toy make everything you can think of and something for your significant other.
take care
Mike

[PanchoVilla]

Depends on your ultimate goals with the mill. For just gun stuff a more powerful manual is probably better. I want to do other fine stuff and so I went CNC too. Plus I wanted to learn how to program them. I went with a Taig, its more spendy up front, but its about the same work envelope as an X2 and I got the whole kit controller, software, everything but the PC. What wardog said is true about the CNC stuff too. I have so far spent most of mine time working on tooling and brackets, etc to do an 80% lower. Its a tight fit on my mill to get everything on there.

Oh, and don't forget the hundreds of dollars you will spend on tooling, measuring, clamping, etc.

did you actually find someone who sells 80% 1911 frames? I have never been able to find anything that I would consider more than about a 65% one. Its substantially tougher than an AR 80% and some of the cuts would need special fixturing due to the clearance you would need.

I use Mach3 and CamBam for my software. I think they cost $150 and $100 respectively. Seem to work pretty good so far. You will probably want a decent CAD program too though. Those range from free to thousands.

[desertdweller]

did you actually find someone who sells 80% 1911 frames? I have never been able to find anything that I would consider more than about a 65% one.

Just ended on GB. They come up from time to time.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=226213735