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Another milled AK reweld question...

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  • bigbob76
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2007
    • 3955

    Another milled AK reweld question...

    I've read some threads and Nico has given me a lot of good info but i either lost or don't remember some of it. What a surprise. What I'm looking for is a printable page of dimensions. I have a milled M70 kit and a set of repair plates from the artist in Oregon and I'm gradually warming up to the idea to get started on this.
    If you can't explain it simply you don't understand it well enough. Albert Einstein
  • #2
    CSACANNONEER
    CGN/CGSSA Contributor - Lifetime
    CGN Contributor - Lifetime
    • Dec 2006
    • 44093

    For the over all length of the reciever, you want to use you top cover as a gauge. For drilling the FCG, you can either measure one of you stamped receivers or find the dimmensions on the internet. I had a great drawing saved in my favorites but, my laptop crashed and now I'm using my wife's.
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    • #3
      SJgunguy24
      I need a LIFE!!
      • May 2008
      • 14849

      Use the top cover for length and calipers for everything else. Pretty straight forward for an experienced builder like you. Just keep everything squared up and clamped down. Even stitch weld if you don't want to put too much heat into the receiver.
      There are 3 kinds of people in this world.
      The wise, learn from the mistakes of others.
      The smart, learn from their own mistakes.
      The others, well......they just never learn.

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      • #4
        bigbob76
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2007
        • 3955

        Originally posted by CSACANNONEER
        For the over all length of the reciever, you want to use you top cover as a gauge. For drilling the FCG, you can either measure one of you stamped receivers or find the dimmensions on the internet. I had a great drawing saved in my favorites but, my laptop crashed and now I'm using my wife's.
        Originally posted by SJgunguy24
        Use the top cover for length and calipers for everything else. Pretty straight forward for an experienced builder like you. Just keep everything squared up and clamped down. Even stitch weld if you don't want to put too much heat into the receiver.
        Thanks guys.
        If you can't explain it simply you don't understand it well enough. Albert Einstein

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        • #5
          tujungatoes
          Calguns Addict
          • Dec 2006
          • 7942

          Originally posted by bigbob76
          What I'm looking for is a printable page of dimensions.
          Here ya go linky
          Last edited by tujungatoes; 04-10-2011, 2:44 PM.
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          Originally posted by Dr. Elky
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          Originally posted by CSACANNONEER
          I've been know to cross dress and go the other way at certain events.

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          • #6
            bigbob76
            Veteran Member
            • Dec 2007
            • 3955

            Originally posted by tujungatoes
            Here ya go linky
            Perfect. I printed Dr. Strangeloves' drawing. Thanks Toes.
            If you can't explain it simply you don't understand it well enough. Albert Einstein

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            • #7
              nicoroshi
              www.Buildyourownak.info
              CGN Contributor - Lifetime
              • Jan 2009
              • 3696

              Originally posted by bigbob76
              Perfect. I printed Dr. Strangeloves' drawing. Thanks Toes.
              That's the one I use Bob

              I'll save you some math too.
              Between trigger, and hammer axis pin holes is 1.55"
              Between trigger, and 'evil third hole' (in case your hammer axis pin hole is missing on the cut receiver sections) is 2.133". (Be sure to weld it shut after you set the distance).
              Distance from top rail is 1.1" to center of hammer axis pin hole, and 1.38" from top rail to center of trigger axis pin hole.

              Normally you can find the safety selector hole on your rear stub so finding the trigger axis pin hole is done from there.
              The distance is .9" center to center between the two.

              Mag well is set using a mag, and as stated before OAL of the receiver is set using the top cover (-1/32" so you can file fit a nice snug top cover).

              Take all dimensions from top rail, and square down from there.

              Have fun with it Bob.

              >>>>>My Build Your Own AK eBooks<<<<<

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              • #8
                4thSBCT
                Banned
                • Mar 2009
                • 2047

                you can also use an unbent flat for reference.

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                • #9
                  bigbob76
                  Veteran Member
                  • Dec 2007
                  • 3955

                  Originally posted by nicoroshi
                  That's the one I use Bob

                  I'll save you some math too.
                  Between trigger, and hammer axis pin holes is 1.55"
                  Between trigger, and 'evil third hole' (in case your hammer axis pin hole is missing on the cut receiver sections) is 2.133". (Be sure to weld it shut after you set the distance).
                  Distance from top rail is 1.1" to center of hammer axis pin hole, and 1.38" from top rail to center of trigger axis pin hole.

                  Normally you can find the safety selector hole on your rear stub so finding the trigger axis pin hole is done from there.
                  The distance is .9" center to center between the two.

                  Mag well is set using a mag, and as stated before OAL of the receiver is set using the top cover (-1/32" so you can file fit a nice snug top cover).

                  Take all dimensions from top rail, and square down from there.

                  Have fun with it Bob.
                  Originally posted by 4thSBCT
                  you can also use an unbent flat for reference.
                  More good info, thanks very much!
                  If you can't explain it simply you don't understand it well enough. Albert Einstein

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