How do I make my AR Look New Again??

[Dogblast]

The gun is not a year old , It's a Rock River AR 15 Operator..I know how to break down and clean the weapon etc... But does anyone have any suggestions on how to "shine up" the upper and lower to make it look new again? i never gave it much thought until I was looking at some photos I have of it when I bought it.. I happen to really like the way this gun looks when it's 'new'.. kind of like when you put lemon oil on a guitar fretboard or wax your car and it restores it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks California..

[Cokebottle]

I put lemon oil on a fretboard to protect it and keep it from cracking.

A gun is a tool, not a piece of jewelry. I prefer that my guns show the rigors of their use.

Mine just get a quick wipe-down with CLP and then a silicone-bearing gun cloth. I focus the "cleaning" on the interior and moving parts.

[Dogblast]

I dont need my guns to " show the rigors of their use". My reputation as a serious tactician speaks for itself. I like ALL
my **** to look tight. There's nothing wrong with that. Dont let anybody fool you into thinking that just because something looks broken in that the person using it knows what they are doing and have expierience. It might just mean that they dont take care of their ****. I guess I'll put lemon oil on my lower. Thanks...

[Cokebottle]

Wear on the anodized finish can only be repaired by stripping and reanodizing.
The alternative would be a repaint when it begins to show wear.

The anodized finish is very durable (much more durable than paint), and it's going to take a lot for it to show any wear, but it will happen.

Like I said... a wipe-down with CLP cleans the crap off and makes it look as "new" as it can look without a refinish.

Never thought about lemon oil... out where I shoot, it would attract bees

[Dogblast]

Lol... BEES! I guess I ought to consider that!My gun is not THAT bad I reckon- some things do look a little better worn in.. I agree with you ... Im sure I could go get me some Armour All and put that all over and even do the grips/stock. That would make it look GREAT. I just wouldnt be able to hold the gun! I will go with the CLP. Thanks for your help!

[Dogblast]

Hey lemme ax you something there cokebottle (whats with the screen name, you wear a THICK monacle? Monacles are cool, chicks DIG monacles) - when you see those tan or FDE lowers (and uppers) is that paint? I dig that look and always wonder what that is. it almost looks like some kind of rubber or polymer gun. Thanks again!

[lelandEOD]

I dont need my guns to " show the rigors of their use". My reputation as a serious tactician speaks for itself. I like ALL
my **** to look tight. There's nothing wrong with that. Dont let anybody fool you into thinking that just because something looks broken in that the person using it knows what they are doing and have expierience. It might just mean that they dont take care of their ****. I guess I'll put lemon oil on my lower. Thanks...

Why of course it does, my friend! No one would doubt that.

Yes, I too once considered putting " serious operator/tactician" in my signature on a public gun forum. Then I remembered I'm not a tool.

[Cokebottle]

Hey lemme ax you something there cokebottle (whats with the screen name, you wear a THICK monacle? Monacles are cool, chicks DIG monacles)

My first trip to the range with my new XD9, after not having fired anything for over 10 years. Put 50rds inside the 9 ring on a human-form target. Cop buddy that was with me said "Well, ya' got them all in the cokebottle!"

- when you see those tan or FDE lowers (and uppers) is that paint? I dig that look and always wonder what that is. it almost looks like some kind of rubber or polymer gun. Thanks again!

Usually Duracote, Cerakote, or some other 2-part paint.

My wife's AR is Brownelle's AlumaHyde-II rattle can.

[oldsmoboat]

I use Lemon Pledge. It's cheaper and last longer than lemon oil.

[DannyInSoCal]

Why of course it does, my friend! No one would doubt that.

Yes, I too once considered putting " serious operator/tactician" in my signature on a public gun forum. Then I remembered I'm not a tool.

Hahahahahah

[Rukus]

I've nothing to add here. I just want to say I want to make the OP's sig my sig.

[DREADNOUGHT78]

I cant stand when my firearms start to look all worn out (must be the auto refinisher in me). When me and my girl get into an arguement I usually roll down to my shop rip one of my rifles apart sandblast it and refinish it. I have 4 year old AR's that dont look like they have ever had a round down the pipe. I usually use Duracoat but on the last rifle I did for my brother I tried Allumahyde (spelling???) and it was realy easy to use as opposed to duracoat (dont require the mixing and having the proper spray equipment) but if you dont keep it shaken up in the rattle can it will not have a uniform overall finish. It take a long time to dry without heat on it and it seems to have more mil thickness to it. For proper adhesion most parts will need sandblasting for good mechanical adhesion.

If your into having your rifle look well used thats cool just not for me.Plus I can't stand when my rifle parts dont match. In know every like to talk crap or whatever about being all picky or having safe queens but thats just the way I like it!

Here is a pic of a wasted lower after someone tried to strip Duracoat off of it.


Here it is sandblasted.


Here it is Duracoated. It would later dry to a flat finish.


This upper is about 6 years old and looks newer than when purchased.

[Cokebottle]

It take a long time to dry without heat on it and it seems to have more mil thickness to it.

Indeed.

The paint job above took me over a month to complete.

Base coat of Coyote, cure for a week.
Camo coat of tan, cure for a week.
Camo highlights of Krylon Camo brown and green, cure for a week.
Coat of flat clear, cure for a week.
2nd coat of flat clear, cure for a week.

Then spend hours sanding the paint from the contact areas of the selector, takedown pins, and out of the holes in the receiver for the above parts. The stuff is indeed thick.

[DREADNOUGHT78]

Indeed.

The paint job above took me over a month to complete.

Base coat of Coyote, cure for a week.
Camo coat of tan, cure for a week.
Camo highlights of Krylon Camo brown and green, cure for a week.
Coat of flat clear, cure for a week.
2nd coat of flat clear, cure for a week.

Then spend hours sanding the paint from the contact areas of the selector, takedown pins, and out of the holes in the receiver for the above parts. The stuff is indeed thick.

That is why I will stick to Duracoat. Under a quartz heat lamp I can apply camo stencils to Duracoat in 30 minutes. I would hesitate to apply stencils to Allumahyde after some heat and overnight to dry. And Duracoat has less mil-thickness and covers better than the AL so not a whole lot of cleaning out of the little AR pin holes and such. as it atomizes better from the spray gun vs. the AL. from a rattle can. Also I would reccomend anyone who chooses Allumahyde to invest in extra spray nozzle tips as they are not very good after one use and rellay spray like crap if you try ad use tem at a later time. Both seem to hold up about the same as far a durability as long as the prep is done properly.

[bryan1919]

EXACTLY what DREADNOUGHT78 said. DURACOAT