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DIY Sig Trigger Job

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  • GUNFREAK
    Member
    • May 2010
    • 405

    DIY Sig Trigger Job

    I've been doing some research on getting a trigger job done on my Sig P229R. There are a few gunsmiths including Sig factory that offer them. They can cost you anywhere from $150 and up.

    Well I did some more research online and figured out how to do it on my own.
    This is similar to what Sig calls their "Action Enhancement Package."

    Keep in mind that doing any of this WILL void your warranty. Also, doing this incorrectly can damage your internal parts and you may have to replace them. If you do happen to destroy your hammer or sear, I'd order them from an omline retailer. Luckily the parts we will work with are not too expensive to replace.

    Doing this will require you to have some knowledge on a complete takedown/disassembly of your Sig. If you have never done this, search on YouTube or watch this link a few times before you take everything apart.


    Lastly, do this at your own risk. This is a thread is on the work I did on my P229. I am not responsible for how badly you screw up your gun or if you or anyone gets hurt from your work.

    Ok, so lets get started. I started by polishing the feed ramp. I used Flitz and a few Q-tips.


    Do not use a dremel. You just want to polish the ramp not take away any material. Make sure to only go in the direction of the bullet. It took me about 10-15 minutes with a little pressure behind the Q-tip and got this:



    Now onto the Action Enhancement work. Once you remove your grips check what style your trigger spring is. The new bent wire trigger spring seems to rub less against the inside of the grips. This may be worth changing out.



    Next is the trigger bar. The tools I like to use are the Spyderco ceramic sharpeners. You can pick these up from Amazon for about $35.




    One thing about Sig parts, they phosphate coat all their parts. This is a good thing to help prevent rust and corrosion but it makes the contact points between the internals somewhat rough. This where a dremel with a polishing wheel will come in handy. I used a large cloth buffing pad on my bench grinder to remove the phosphate coating on the trigger bar first. You want to polish the end of the bar where it contacts the hammer. Make sure you polish the backside and the edges as well.

    These are images of my trigger bar after completed with phosphate removal and polishing with ceramic stones.




    Once the phosphate coating is gone, break out your ceramic stones and gently make passes along the bar. Again, you want the passes to go in the direction of the bar itself. In this case it will be along the length of the bar. You will know that it is ready when you run your finger along it and it will be smooth. Reapply Flitz as needed.
    NRA LIFE MEMBER
  • #2
    GUNFREAK
    Member
    • May 2010
    • 405

    Once I was done with the end of the trigger bar I moved onto the rest of it and polished the whole thing. This is a little over board but what the hell, since its already out.



    Next up is the hammer strut



    The hammer pivots on the hammer strut so we want to reduce any friction against the two. Take your ceramic stones and ( I prefer the circular one for this part) run them in a circular motion on the top of the hammer strut.



    After about a minute of doing this, wipe off the Flitz and run your finger over where you just polished. Feel if it feels a little smoother. If it needs more work then reapply Flits and go at it for a few more minutes. Keep in mind to go slow and take your time. You don't want to grind the stone into your strut or any other parts. Gentle passes.

    NRA LIFE MEMBER

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    • #3
      GUNFREAK
      Member
      • May 2010
      • 405

      So moving onto the hammer. Some people use a real fine grit sand paper to remove the phospahte coating (I can hear the gunsmiths out there cringing). Sandpaper will work if you are careful, not too much elbow grease. You just want to expose the metal. You can see from normal wear and tear how the hammer relationship to the sear is. Some of the phospahte coating may already be worn off.

      If you have the stone that is shaped like a spade or triangle, I like that one to do this part. You want to polish the part on the hammer that contacts the sear only.

      This is most important! Run the stones in the direction that the hammer travels in ONLY. Do not slide the stones laterally across the hammer.

      The highlighted part in blue is the area you want to focus on





      This was my hammer once I was done with it

      NRA LIFE MEMBER

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      • #4
        GUNFREAK
        Member
        • May 2010
        • 405

        Next up is the sear.

        The same thing applies with the sear as did withthe hammer. Remove the phosphating. Then, stone in the direction of motion and stop when you feel the metal is
        smooth.



        The polished area will almost have a mirror finish on them when your done. Run yourfinger nail along them to see how smooth they are. Once you get there, STOP!



        NRA LIFE MEMBER

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        • #5
          GUNFREAK
          Member
          • May 2010
          • 405

          You're now just about done.

          A few extra tips: DO NOT ANT SEAR TEETH OR HAMMER TEETH!
          The polishing of the hammer and sear is done where the part of the sear rubs on the hammer going from the safety stop tooth to the single action tooth. I call this the head of the sear, and the large flat part of the hammer that the sear rubs on.

          I also polished the length of the hammer strut as well. This is where the hammer strut spring will rub against the strut. This will mostly smooth out your double action pull.

          This last part is totally optional. Yo may take a pair of wire cutters and clip a coil or two off your hammer strut spring. This is make a difference in your double action pull as well.

          Okay, now lets put everything back together!



          When reassemblying your Sig, I like to use TW-25b lubricant on my internal parts. I use a liberal amount, especially where the hammer/sear connect and the hammer strut/hammer pivot. TW-25b is my favorite lubricant. You can use whatever you like but I prefer it because it stays where you put it and it is heavier than an oil like CLP. Once you dry fire it a bunch of times the lube will work itself where it is need and and won't look so gunked up.

          One last thing make sure you clean off all your parts before reassembly and lubing it up.
          NRA LIFE MEMBER

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          • #6
            Ryan in SD
            Senior Member
            • Apr 2009
            • 1966

            You have very lovely hands.

            Also how was the trigger pull after?

            I just did some dremel polishing on my ak and was suprised at how much of a difference it made.

            Comment

            • #7
              KALIDAWG8996
              Senior Member
              • Nov 2009
              • 705

              Awesome! I think this needs to be stickied in the Gunsmithing forum.....

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              • #8
                Robidouxs
                Senior Member
                • Dec 2009
                • 1684

                Wow, it looks great! Awaiting a report on improved trigger pull.
                Life is like having a map with precise directions and exact stops, you find out that your directions and stops change as you progress further down your original map.

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                • #9
                  GUNFREAK
                  Member
                  • May 2010
                  • 405

                  Originally posted by Ryan in SD
                  You have very lovely hands.

                  Also how was the trigger pull after?

                  I just did some dremel polishing on my ak and was suprised at how much of a difference it made.
                  Thank you. You may have seen my work before on the All State commercials.

                  The trigger pull on the SA was much smoother and lighter. Its hard to say exactly but it took about a pound off if I had to guess.

                  The double action is really nice. I ended up taking two coils off the hammer strut spring. The pull is noticably more smoother.
                  NRA LIFE MEMBER

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                  • #10
                    GUNFREAK
                    Member
                    • May 2010
                    • 405

                    One more thing, In my last pic you'll notice I didn't take apart the decocker lever and spring. It was unnecessary to do for this trigger job.
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                    • #11
                      GUNFREAK
                      Member
                      • May 2010
                      • 405

                      This a pic from the range today. Had a couple of fliers but a decent group at 10 yards.

                      NRA LIFE MEMBER

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                      • #12
                        jdmacl
                        Senior Member
                        • Dec 2009
                        • 769

                        Nice work on your gun. I haven't mustered the courage yet to try with with my 226.

                        I do recall this material first appearing on the Sig Forum several years back, with a few more pictures.




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                        • #13
                          Hungster
                          Junior Member
                          • Feb 2011
                          • 74

                          Would this work on a P6/P225?
                          http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm

                          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4P4XJ...eature=related

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                          • #14
                            9mmepiphany
                            Calguns Addict
                            • Jul 2008
                            • 8075

                            I thought those pictures looked familiar from SigForum too...the cuticles were the giveaway

                            Caneau really did a nice writeup originally
                            ...because the journey is the worthier part...The Shepherd's Tale

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                            • #15
                              GUNFREAK
                              Member
                              • May 2010
                              • 405

                              Caneau's guide is awesome. I used his post and and help from another member on Sig Forum to help me do the job. I could forward them to anyone if they are interested.
                              NRA LIFE MEMBER

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