Getting Into Gunsmithing

[thomashoward]

I would NOT use red. In order to remove it, you usually have to heat it with a torch. I use blue.

+1 Blue

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/threadlockers.shtml

[Ryan in SD]

The favorite gunsmithing tool on CGF appears to be a bottle of red loctite.

red? not good for guns really and especially not for noobs. Id use blue anyway.

Ive been in some trouble with red back in the paintball days. Not fun.

[SJgunguy24]

Weld it

[Bullwinkle]

I believe Loctite "stregth" goes like this:

Red (271) - Permanent... requires heat to remove.
Green (290) - Same as red, but is a wicking/penetrating version.
Blue (242) - Can be removed with hand tools (and probably lots of cussing).
Purple (222) - Also can be removed with hand tools, used for set screws and light duty.

And yeah, that was a pretty funny joke about the Loctite!

[nicoroshi]

Weld it

Now you're talking my language brother!
I have a bottle of both red, and blue loctite but the only place I ever use it is on my Glock front site screw.
Good to have in the range bag none the less for scope rail screws, and the like.

[emilio]

The favorite gunsmithing tool on CGF appears to be a bottle of red loctite.

lol! blue Loctite is pretty rad stuff for light usage. you can also find cheaper non-Loctite brands at hobby stores, i've used a couple and they work fine. i think i'm ready to graduate to Loctite Black Max for my new pistol sights, though...

and Asrielja, lelandEOD was half-joking. Loctite is a great piece of security, but it's no replacement for well-fitted parts!

as far as setting up a basic gunsmithing kit, like the guys said: a good set of screwdrivers, punches, and a replaceable-head hammer are probably the absolute basics. this isn't really a gunsmith's kit, more of an armorer-level ability, but people call all this AR building "gunsmithing" anyway, so whatever...

i recommend Grace Tools for the screwdrivers and punches. they even make a nice little set that includes screwdrivers, punches, and a brass hammer. and best of all, they're USA made and of great quality.

the next step up in a kit, which really takes it from the realm of armorer in to that of the gunsmith, is basic metal fitting and finishing tools and supplies. these include:

• a set of small needle/jeweler's files, the kind with flat, half-round, round, square, etc.;
• a larger narrow swiss-cut file;
• chalk and wire brushes to clean your files;
• sandpaper in a broad set of grades;
• one or two grades of polishing compound;
• cold blue, aluminum black, etc. for basic finishing and touch-up;
• a good vise, a sturdy table to work on, work mats, and good lighting;
• a simple bench block - i'm fond of Remington .45ACP ammo trays.

there is one item notably absent from this list: a quality dial caliper. a good Swiss- or USA-made one won't be cheap, but this is one of the most important tools you will ever own. a lot of 'smithing can be done just by feel: shave a bit off, see if it fits, repeat. however, many procedures are best done with some reference to a diagram and actual measurements, it may be important to supply accurate measurements when ordering a custom part, or you may want to work up basic blueprints when planning modifications. a dial caliper is also absolutely critical should you get in to reloading ammunition.

the next level of tools gets in to special tools for specific jobs: jigs, barrel clamps, taps & dies, chamber reamers, headspace gauges, scope ring alignment tools, and more. these can also included serious refinishing equipment, like a blasting cabinet, spray booth, or park/blue tanks.

moving beyond what you can accomplish with a vise: serious machine tools. these may included vertical mills, engine lathes, hydraulic presses, surface grinders, and other equipment even capable of manufacturing a firearm from scratch.

how to learn? one of the most valuable classes i ever took was the machine shop intro at a local community college. it was not at all gun-specific, but it taught me all the core skills for serious metalworking: metrology (measuring stuff accurately), tool care (how to avoid dulling files), safety, reading plans and marking out work, basic properties of materials, and the basics of using a grinder, drill press, vertical mill, and lathe.

take it slowly, measure thrice, cut once, and have fun!
- emilio

[thomashoward]

lol! blue Loctite is pretty rad stuff for light usage. you can also find cheaper non-Loctite brands at hobby stores, i've used a couple and they work fine. i think i'm ready to graduate to Loctite Black Max for my new pistol sights, though...

and Asrielja, lelandEOD was half-joking. Loctite is a great piece of security, but it's no replacement for well-fitted parts!

as far as setting up a basic gunsmithing kit, like the guys said: a good set of screwdrivers, punches, and a replaceable-head hammer are probably the absolute basics. this isn't really a gunsmith's kit, more of an armorer-level ability, but people call all this AR building "gunsmithing" anyway, so whatever...

i recommend Grace Tools for the screwdrivers and punches. they even make a nice little set that includes screwdrivers, punches, and a brass hammer. and best of all, they're USA made and of great quality.

the next step up in a kit, which really takes it from the realm of armorer in to that of the gunsmith, is basic metal fitting and finishing tools and supplies. these include:

• a set of small needle/jeweler's files, the kind with flat, half-round, round, square, etc.;
• a larger narrow swiss-cut file;
• chalk and wire brushes to clean your files;
• sandpaper in a broad set of grades;
• one or two grades of polishing compound;
• cold blue, aluminum black, etc. for basic finishing and touch-up;
• a good vise, a sturdy table to work on, work mats, and good lighting;
• a simple bench block - i'm fond of Remington .45ACP ammo trays.

there is one item notably absent from this list: a quality dial caliper. a good Swiss- or USA-made one won't be cheap, but this is one of the most important tools you will ever own. a lot of 'smithing can be done just by feel: shave a bit off, see if it fits, repeat. however, many procedures are best done with some reference to a diagram and actual measurements, it may be important to supply accurate measurements when ordering a custom part, or you may want to work up basic blueprints when planning modifications. a dial caliper is also absolutely critical should you get in to reloading ammunition.

the next level of tools gets in to special tools for specific jobs: jigs, barrel clamps, taps & dies, chamber reamers, headspace gauges, scope ring alignment tools, and more. these can also included serious refinishing equipment, like a blasting cabinet, spray booth, or park/blue tanks.

moving beyond what you can accomplish with a vise: serious machine tools. these may included vertical mills, engine lathes, hydraulic presses, surface grinders, and other equipment even capable of manufacturing a firearm from scratch.

how to learn? one of the most valuable classes i ever took was the machine shop intro at a local community college. it was not at all gun-specific, but it taught me all the core skills for serious metalworking: metrology (measuring stuff accurately), tool care (how to avoid dulling files), safety, reading plans and marking out work, basic properties of materials, and the basics of using a grinder, drill press, vertical mill, and lathe.

take it slowly, measure thrice, cut once, and have fun!
- emilio

+1 good quality caliper.
A Collimator is a must have for reloading if you want to duplicate a good load
Not ready for files, stones or emery paper at this time. You will get into trouble and remove too much IMHO
Trigger pull gauges and boresighters are good maybe a Sekonk 65 in lb torque wrench for target/Varmint rifles stock screws.
It goes on and on by them as you need and understand.
AR's I know nothing about and I'm sure they require different tools

[Asrielja]

emilio-

thank you for that, that is very useful information. Im definitely going to to check out the suggested stuff, and im more then likely to get them since there American made. I dont buy to much online since i like to support my local gun shops, but sometimes they just dont have what i need.

[reggie 00]

surprised no has mentioned torque wrench.

I got the Wheeler fat wrench. and their brass punch kit.
Dont skimp on screwdriver bits. you'll mess up a screwhead in a heartbeat with the wrong bit.

[lelandEOD]

surprised no has mentioned torque wrench.

No need to buy a torque wrench if you have an ample supply of red loctite.

[Ryan in SD]

No need to buy a torque wrench if you have an ample supply of red loctite.

Yeah thumb tight, then 5 threads minimum of red.

[SJgunguy24]

Yeah thumb tight, then 5 threads minimum of red.

Then run a weld bead over the top of the fastener.

[Roccobro]

Only if the jbweld didn't set up right.

Justin

[Gunsmithing]

Loctite & JB money maker

FYI on loctite and JB
It is a real money maker for gunsmiths after some one has use loctite or JB
Just think of the add cost to remove the screw after loctite or JB was used.

First you try to remove the screw now to the gunsmith to have drill out the old screw and tap.
You can try baking out the screw then re-finishing is need.

The cost of a torque wrench is cheap now.

I do use Loctite but never on screwn threads I may need to remove some day.

Dave

No need to buy a torque wrench if you have an ample supply of red loctite.

[Ryan in SD]

FYI on loctite and JB
It is a real money maker for gunsmiths after some one has use loctite or JB
Just think of the add cost to remove the screw after loctite or JB was used.

First you try to remove the screw now to the gunsmith to have drill out the old screw and tap.
You can try baking out the screw then re-finishing is need.

The cost of a torque wrench is cheap now.

I do use Loctite but never on screwn threads I may need to remove some day.

Dave

Even pink loctite?

Or blue?