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So how many glockers are in the house?
Got a 23 and am planning on putting a wolf spring pack in, which includes 6lb trigger spring, 4lb striker spring, and a lighter(don't remember exactly) safety plunger spring. I've also got a 3.5lb connector bar and a stainless steel aftermarker recoil spring/rod to install with a recoil buffer. So basically I'm just tricking out my G23. I want a lighter more consistent pull, but am concerned with some of the reviews, which state that the safety plunger spring is to light and that if you pull the trigger partially and then let off, the trigger won't reset itself. I carry this thing all the time(off duty)and it has to be safe in my IWB, so I don't accidently shoot myself in the leg or something, because that would not make me look good.....I'm sure it wouldn't help my leg any either!
So thoughts, concerns, experiences, or even just say hey get bent or something. I plan on later installing a trigger housing with stop adjustment and a glockworx or lighting strike striker. I will also polish the trigger connector and such inside the frame.
Now this brings me to my second project. Same gun, but it has some slide wear and I'm wanting to fix that. I'm torn. I read some stuff online and saw what they showed as the end result, which looked hella sweet. So basically they removed the outter black coating. It is my understanding that the tenifer coating goes into the metal, which I'll get to that later. The upper slide was then polished up very nicely, giving it a stainless type of appearence. They topped all that off with stainless takedown pin/lever and all 3 receiver pins.
Has anybody done or seen this? I wouldn't mind trying it as the slide would need to be blasted before I would duracoat it anyways. Would one just be ahead of the game to blast it and duracoat it FDE or OD. I want to do something that is not so plain jane looking though and I really liked the look of a 2 tone glock!
Oh yeah, back to the tenifer coating. It is my understanding that this is done outside the US and that it penetrates the metal and will not come out. I would be curious as to what steps a guy should take, if any, in preperation for duracoat should I go that way.
Then it will be off to reduce the frame/grip and get it stippled or something different. Anyways, you guys have been a aweson forum so far and I'm looking forward to helping out where possible. Thanks in advance for your time, Jason
Got a 23 and am planning on putting a wolf spring pack in, which includes 6lb trigger spring, 4lb striker spring, and a lighter(don't remember exactly) safety plunger spring. I've also got a 3.5lb connector bar and a stainless steel aftermarker recoil spring/rod to install with a recoil buffer. So basically I'm just tricking out my G23. I want a lighter more consistent pull, but am concerned with some of the reviews, which state that the safety plunger spring is to light and that if you pull the trigger partially and then let off, the trigger won't reset itself. I carry this thing all the time(off duty)and it has to be safe in my IWB, so I don't accidently shoot myself in the leg or something, because that would not make me look good.....I'm sure it wouldn't help my leg any either!
So thoughts, concerns, experiences, or even just say hey get bent or something. I plan on later installing a trigger housing with stop adjustment and a glockworx or lighting strike striker. I will also polish the trigger connector and such inside the frame.
Now this brings me to my second project. Same gun, but it has some slide wear and I'm wanting to fix that. I'm torn. I read some stuff online and saw what they showed as the end result, which looked hella sweet. So basically they removed the outter black coating. It is my understanding that the tenifer coating goes into the metal, which I'll get to that later. The upper slide was then polished up very nicely, giving it a stainless type of appearence. They topped all that off with stainless takedown pin/lever and all 3 receiver pins.
Has anybody done or seen this? I wouldn't mind trying it as the slide would need to be blasted before I would duracoat it anyways. Would one just be ahead of the game to blast it and duracoat it FDE or OD. I want to do something that is not so plain jane looking though and I really liked the look of a 2 tone glock!
Oh yeah, back to the tenifer coating. It is my understanding that this is done outside the US and that it penetrates the metal and will not come out. I would be curious as to what steps a guy should take, if any, in preperation for duracoat should I go that way.
Then it will be off to reduce the frame/grip and get it stippled or something different. Anyways, you guys have been a aweson forum so far and I'm looking forward to helping out where possible. Thanks in advance for your time, Jason
