AK painting tip....

[bigbob76]

I'm a slow learner and a fast forgetter. Time after time I have gotten runs while painting AKs that I built. Eventually I remembered that the runs almost always happened when trying to get good finish coverage inside the receiver or trigger guard. Now I put some tape on the outside of the receiver and paint the inside of it separately. It is easier to paint the trigger guard first before riveting and touch it up afterwards. The good thing about sandblasting and Parkerizing before painting is not only the tooth that holds paint but if you ding your rifle and chip the paint its still black underneath the paint. I realize there are different opinions but I don't believe that Parkerizing prevents rust, it just holds oil. I believe that if you don't keep adding oil it will surely rust if not painted.

[TURBOELKY]

Good job Bob. I too agree about park and rust. I always get rust in my gas tube, and the crease where its spot welded after I shoot yugo stuff. The rifle I painted, does not rust at all! I too used the alumahyde II.

[motorhead]

i'v e had good results with hi temp engine paint, low gloss black, baked @200 deg. for an hour or so. i did a peepsight topcover over icky green park not too long ago, looks like a factory finish.

[tujungatoes]

Sounds like good advice Bob.

BTW what are you painting there? AMD-65?

[bigbob76]

i'v e had good results with hi temp engine paint, low gloss black, baked @200 deg. for an hour or so. i did a peepsight topcover over icky green park not too long ago, looks like a factory finish.

That sounds good too. Does it stand up to bore cleaner etc?

[_Z_]

That sounds good too. Does it stand up to bore cleaner etc?

I used something similar to paint my Maadi and the finish was tough. You can pick at it with your finger nails and it will just leave a dull mark.

[Ryan in SD]

Cmon man use some painters tape, cant imagine the pita of getting the duct tape gunk residue off after that.

[bigbob76]

Cmon man use some painters tape, cant imagine the pita of getting the duct tape gunk residue off after that.

I knew somebody was going to say that! I have some but couldn't find it.

[j.primo]

Is that a new tip on the can because the one it came with clogged? Or did they just send you a can with a red tip?

[_Z_]

I knew somebody was going to say that! I have some but couldn't find it.

Haha no masking tape? Yeah duct tape holds pretty darn well and leaves gunk behind.

I tried it before too already since I was in the same boat, it's all I had.

[TURBOELKY]

Is that a new tip on the can because the one it came with clogged? Or did they just send you a can with a red tip?

Thats a "top secrete" tip sshhhhh.

sold separate

[bigbob76]

Is that a new tip on the can because the one it came with clogged? Or did they just send you a can with a red tip?

Most rattle cans come with a nozzle that sprays a cone shape. I order extra nozzles for spraying a fan shape, I get better results that way. When using expensive paint like Alumahyde II it is also good to order some cleanout nozzles. Sometimes the can gets clogged and its not just the nozzle, its the pickup tube inside I guess? The cleanout nozzle gets it working and you switch back to cone or fan nozzles. Brownell's has really good free instruction videos online. The details really matter with prepping and spraying.

[SJgunguy24]

I've used a lot of AH2, good stuff for the DIY but after working at PRK man I'm a believer in Moly Resin.

[E-120]

If you hold the can upside down and spray momentarily it will clear the nozzle

[joelukehart]

Parkerize the finished rifle and use Norrell Moly Resin to spray the outside. With a $30 air brush, 40 psi, and preheat you will not get runs. I don't like idea of painting the inside of a gun with all the bearing surfaces. I have used Alumihyde and it goes on pretty thick. Plus the propellant craps out after only half a can.